Verity Vintage Studio

1950s Three-Piece Suit, Two Ways

This outfit I made back in September to wear to my brother's wedding, and only recently finally got pictures of it. I found the mallard blue cotton online at a cheap price per yard, and loved the color and drape of it so much I got enough for three different outfits - this is the first.

 

It is cotton, but it drapes and hangs more like rayon, which poses a bit of a problem for a more structured outfit like the jacket. Fusible interfacing was my friend.

 

I used elements from three different patterns. The jacket I've made before - I wanted something with a pointed collar, 3/4 sleeves, and not too many details which would get lost in the fabric and dark color.

 

This one has princess lines which made it easy to adjust, and triple graduated darts in the front are pretty much the only detail.

However, I had major problems with the fit. I thought since I'd done it before I wouldn't need a trial, but I should have. I kept altering it when I should have just recut it, so I'm not completely pleased with it even yet - and it looks kind of messy on the inside.

 

I decided to do self buttons, because that is often what I see on vintage suits and is one reason they look so upscale. I didn't have the right size, so I quickly ordered some covered buttons online - and didn't order the tools to make them with, because I was sure I'd have some extras.

Well, I didn't. So I had to kind of cobble the buttons together without the right size tools. It didn't work too well, and they keep coming apart, so while they lasted long enough for the wedding, I'm going to need to take them off, redo them, and put them back on before I can get a lot of wash and wear out of the jacket.

 

I do love the overall style lines, though!

 

I used a different skirt pattern to make a wider, flared skirt - I was going for more of a 1950s cocktail suit outfit for the wedding, and this outfit is very similar to the one I wore then. I think an indoor background, with light and shadow and a pillar or two, would do it more justice and make it look more Dior - but I really wear my vintage styles at real events, not to get the perfect staged shot, so a cheerful autumn outdoors backdrop is more similar to real life and will have to do. :-)

 

Incidentally, my Royal Vintage Zella shoes are so comfy and classy, perfect for dancing or being on your feet. The satin and lovely strap detail make them the ideal shoe for a dressier outfit like this, and they work for 1940s or 1950s.

 

I paired it with black accessories and touches of silver and rhinestones, for an evening cocktail style

But I also made a second skirt, this one more of a traditional suit skirt with a narrower width. That way I can swap them out depending on my preference, and get two different looks.

 

I did find a pattern (this one was taken from a dress pattern) that had some cute button detail on the front, and some pretty lines in the back. Because why make something plain when you can make it pretty???

 

To show its versatility, I paired this combo with mostly chocolate brown accessories instead, suitable for street wear rather than fancy dress. Because of doing self buttons, I am able to use any color to accent without feeling held to whatever color the buttons are. 

 

And teal blue like this can go so well with either black or brown.

 

I had wanted this to be perfectly made, with leisure to spend on making the construction beautiful. It ended up a little more slap-dash due to time constraints - but that's my fault for not starting it early enough! At least no one need see the inside, except me. :-)

 

I do really love the concept of mixing and matching - especially with an outfit like this. I can wear the jacket with other skirts, and pair other blouses with either of the skirts. That gives it a lot more versatility, and I can get multiple outfits out of one sewing project.

Three-piece ensembles are a lot of fun, and I always am glad to add more to my closet.

Project Journal: Thrifted Sweater Coat Made 1930s

Something a little different this week! As the weather has turned chilly again, I've rediscovered how much I like sweater coats. They are less formal than jackets, longer and more versatile than regular sweaters, and especially nice for long car rides since they provide warmth for going in and out of the car, without the excessive heat and bulk of a long wool coat during the ride. 

I already own one and was happy to pick up two new ones recently. One was this lovely cream colored one, with quite a bit of cute detail. I especially liked the thin cotton yarn used (not a fan of acrylic if I can get cotton!) and the nubby texture, while the neutral color will go with anything!

 

I definitely saw possibilities in it, but it had some modern elements I didn't like so much - especially those huge, decorative shiny plastic buttons, and a random modern buckle on the neck.

 

I did some research, looking at 1930s swagger coats for inspiration of ways I could make this more me - more suitable for a vintage style wardrobe. After deciding on the route I wanted to take, I got started.

 

First off, those shiny plastic buttons and the buckle were removed.

 

Under each one was a small hole, probably put there by the factory to mark the button placement. I could have covered it by replacing with a vintage button, but I had a different idea. So each hole got a quick darn to close it. Thanks to the nubby texture of the knit, it camouflaged the darn pretty well.

 

Next, I tightened the back belt by folding a pinch of it and inserting through a vintage belt buckle. A common 1930s fashion element was a buckle in the back - and besides, it was a great way to tighten the belt without having to take out the side seams and cut the belt shorter. Instead of sewing it in place, I did use a safety pin to allow for versatility. This way I can swap out buckles when I want to. 

 

The sleeves got a quick hem since they had been too long when I tried it on. Just an inch turn-up made the fit much better.

 

I just love the slanted lines on the front - another perfect fit for the 1930s look I'm going for.

 

I had put some thought into the neck. Because the 1930s were big on collars and sleeves, often swagger coats had some sort of fancy element there. Since I was working with an existing sweater, I tried to think of a way to dress up the neck/shoulder area. I got inspiration from a photo, and purchased a Pashmina scarf for a few dollars online.

It was supposed to be ivory, but it is still much whiter than the sweater. Oh well, that way it will just coordinate with more colors. It's still all neutral.

 

I cut the scarf in half across the center of the width, and pleated it closely together, fastening the cut end of each half on the shoulder where it would be covered with the decorative tab already there.

 

The last step was to replace a button back on each tab - only a pretty vintage one this time!

 

While the finished sweater coat may not look completely 1930s, it's much closer than the more modern one it was originally. Therefore much more my style, and goes with my wardrobe better.

 

The scarf coming from each shoulder creates some versatility with ways to wear it, too. 

 

 

I paired it with a 1930s dress I made a long time ago that has issues, but is still a favorite, especially of my early projects. Also true vintage accessories in chocolate brown and burgundy.

 

(I hope these lovely autumn leaves last long enough for me to get a few more outfit photo shoots done! I love this time of year, yet I think we will get an early winter this year...so fall is not lasting very long, sadly.)

 

It only took a half hour to make this into a version I like - so much faster than making a new one! Just another reason to keep your eye open when thrifting for those classic styles (or vintage style elements) that give you something to work with. Think creatively, and it opens a lot of possibilities.

 

After all...you can't beat a 99 cent, half-hour swagger coat added to your fall wardrobe!

1950s Floral Flair Dress

I did not intend posting about two blue dresses in a row, but judging from the amount of blue in my stash it's likely to happen more than once, and at least they are quite different in styles and shades!

 

I settled on this 1950s pattern as a good fit for some satin fabric I wanted to use for a formal dress. But first I needed to make a trial version to make sure I could still nurse with the slanting opening, so out came some giant floral cotton that I had stashed for a "something 1950s" project someday.

 

It was a bit challenging to figure out how to cut it out correctly, with some pieces needing cut only once. Thankfully I had enough fabric that I didn't worry about disaster if I would cut something incorrectly.

The dress went together quickly, and I didn't have any difficulty with the pattern. It certainly was intended for a long-waisted gal though! I took a pinch out of the torso pattern pieces when cutting it out, and when I basted the skirt on and tried it on the first time the bodice was still too long. I had to take the skirt back off and trim the bodice off yet another inch or so.

 

I wanted to make the sleeves a bit more interesting, so I stitched a bit of ecru cotton lace on them, which also helps to break up the print.

 

Even with the crossing-front style, I found it easy enough to nurse in, and really like the variation it provides from the usual row of buttons down the front. I close it at the waist with a hook and eye on one side and a snap on the other, to keep the gore smooth.

 

I have seen this style as a house dress a lot, but the pattern illustrations show it as a more dressy outfit, so I am sure it will work out well in my formal fabric as well. I will wear this one as a house dress, but wanted to dress it up a bit for these pictures, since I think the large print is fairly versatile. 

 

It was intended just as a quick trial of a pattern I needed to make, but actually, I was quite pleased with it in its own right. I like how simple it is, yet very classic 1950s, and a different type of basic. The simple lines are ideal for a large print like this one, and I love the skirt flare.

 

Now I can start the next version with confidence, and meanwhile enjoy wearing this one for everyday.

1940s Confetti House Dress

This was one of the dresses I would have made this summer had I not been pregnant. Now I quickly am squeezing in a few cotton house dresses this fall yet, even though the weather has already turned. I do wear them year-round anyway, just layer with sweaters in the winter. At least the dark color is a bit more fall-appropriate.

 

This cotton is perfect for an everyday dress since it won't show stains or dirt easily, and is dark enough that I won't need to wear layers under it when it is hot. It's not a reproduction print, but works very well for a vintage style dress. I call it my confetti dress, since that's what the print reminds me of.

 

I've made this 1940s pattern before, and it is one of my most-worn everyday dresses. I reach for it constantly when it is clean and in my closet, so I decided it was time to make another version. 

 

The print has many colors in it, so I originally wanted to keep the buttons navy so that I could accessorize with any of the colors. But all-navy buttons didn't look right with so much navy already in the dress, so I went with some pretty, textured, new-old-stock vintage shell buttons from my stash.

I also added some white lace trim to the sleeves to break up all the blue, but hoped that since white is such a generic color, I could still accessorize with pink, light blue, yellow, or red from the print. It does look nice with a white belt, and I always gravitate toward accessorizing blue with red, but for these pictures I did something different and paired it with light pink. I think that works too. 

 

It was such a quick and simple dress that there's not much to say about it. The shoulder tucks are the only detail - everything else is pretty basic. I glanced at the instructions maybe 2 or 3 times while I was sewing, and made the whole thing from start to finish in less than 3 days. 

 

Another time I must remember to lower the the waist a tad since it hits a little high. This version I also made a bit longer since my green one was on the short side. 

 

Otherwise there's not much to say! It's a nice addition to my everyday wardrobe, and I'm glad to have this cotton off my shelf (where it's been waiting for a few years) and in my closet. It will get a ton of wear year round, I am certain!

Classic Staples: 1940s Print Blouse

This blouse has been on my to-do list for years. Long time readers may remember me mentioning it several years ago on an upcoming project post. Well, it has finally become reality!

 

It took a while though even once I got started! I actually cut it out while still pregnant, because it has no waist darts or shaping, so my idea was to wear it untucked while pregnant, and tuck it in to shape it afterwards. Well, it never got done before the baby, and I did zero garment sewing for the first month or so.

But I finally was motivated to get it done since I have an outfit planned for an upcoming wedding, which meant I had a deadline. But I wanted to clear the decks first since this was already cut out, so I took a few hours and put together this fun blouse.

 

The print is a quilting cotton I got on clearance at JoAnn years ago. I'm not quite sure how vintage-y it is...my eye wasn't trained as well back then. But it's still cute, and close enough to work I think.

Since it is predominately orange - NOT my color - I hoped to make it work by accenting the navy blue, and putting the blue next to my face. I'm pretty pleased with how that ruse worked. At any rate, it adds a splash of unusual color to my wardrobe, and is certainly suitable for early autumn!

 

It was really quite simple. The only detail is the shoulder tucks, which are a fun touch though they mostly get lost in the print, but they are cute if you notice them - and handle the bust fullness nicely. Tucks, then side and shoulder seams, and it was already ready for the collar and sleeves.

 

I had a bit of trouble with the collar, and I'm not 100% happy with how it turned out in the end, but it's good enough for an everyday blouse.

I broke up the busy print and tied in the navy by topstitching narrow bands on the sleeves, which I really like!

 

I happen to have a terrible lack of navy blue buttons, I discovered. These were literally the only ones in my vast stash that would work, but they work quite well. 

 

Minimal hand work and machine buttonholes meant that even with 2 small children in the house, I finished it easily in 2 days, thanks to some nice long nap times and a little late night sewing when I was energetic. It goes so perfectly with this asymmetrical 1940s blue skirt - in fact, it coordinates so well it could be intended to go together! Though of course I will likely wear them with other separates also.

 

The blouse was made too late to be worn for hot weather, but it's likely to be a summer staple next year, worn with a belt, or tucked in like with this outfit. I do prefer blouses with waist shaping normally, but since this was intended to be also maternity friendly, I decided to leave it a tuck-in style to keep the versatility. At some point, if I want to change that, waist darts are relatively easy to add.

 

My Remix wedges would probably have gone better with this outfit, but I was dying to give my new Rocket Originals an outing! Such a lovely, period correct, casual style for fall. The dark brown tooled leather is scrumptious, and exactly like some extant pairs I've seen photos of.

 

While I still prefer any excuse to wear heels, this style of shoe is ideal for shopping trips, or other times when doing a lot of walking but wanting to maintain a vintage aesthetic. 

 

I'm really happy to get my sewing motivation back, and have some exciting new projects coming up which I can't wait to share...once I get them finished of course. Which will hopefully be in a timely manner, now that I am in a sewing mood once more.

 

Meanwhile, I'm glad to have this loooooong-time project off my queue and in my closet. Classic 1940s separates in my wardrobe are something that get a lot of rotation and actual everyday wear (instead of once or twice a year), and never go out of style.

1940s Heirloom Blouse

This was a super fun project, and unusual for me. I made it toward the end of my pregnancy, so couldn't get proper photos until recently, but now I can share it with you.

 

After watching some online classes on heirloom sewing, which I told you about earlier, I was dying to try some of the techniques I learned about, so I decided to make an heirloom sewing sampler blouse and practice some of what I'd learned.

I had a thrifted piece of vintage fabric in my stash, lighter weight than quilting cotton. It was just enough for a blouse, so it was the perfect match, and a very nice fabric to work with.

 

The original 1940s pattern I chose did call for fine tucks in the shoulder, but instead of doing it the way they said, I used my pin tuck foot and double needle, drawing a slanted line with a washable marker where the tucks were supposed to end on the pattern.

 

I had a lot of trouble with my thread breaking, so it was quite a long, painstaking process to get all those pin tucks done, but I really like how it looks. I think my Rocketeer will do a better job with the twin needle, but it's having issues right now so I am still stuck with a modern machine for the time being.

 

The front panel was supposed to be sewn in place, but I made it snap on one side to allow for nursing access, and that worked out quite well. I like how I can still nurse in it without having a button-down style. The front edge was finished and then the finished panel tacked in place. I made my own baby piping (also using the pin tuck foot) to trim the front.

 

For the front panel I used the Cathedral Window technique, with inserted lace. It turned out really pretty and not terribly time consuming, though of course it took a lot more time than a plain panel would have. Heirloom sewing is definitely done for the enjoyment of it, and the finished project - not for instant gratification!

 

For the sleeves I did two new techniques - joining lace to rickrack, and inserting lace. It would have been a lot more delicate if I'd used actual heirloom lace, which is very fine and cobwebby cotton lace, but I wanted to practice with something less expensive so I used stuff from my stash. 

It still turned out very pretty, I think! 

 

The pattern gave me all the main pieces to work with, but I made enough changes to it that I only vaguely followed the instructions. Because I couldn't fit it to me, I had to guess at the size. It turned out too big at the waist (funny how that works when you are pregnant and think, "I never was that small! :-), so now I have to decide if I should alter it, or leave it as is since it needs to be worn tucked in anyway.

 

I didn't have too many skirts in my closet that it would go with, so I pulled out my white 1930s skirt from last year to give it one quick wearing this summer. Navy accessories pick up the blue of the blouse, though the decades are a bit mixed up.

 

I definitely have plans to incorporate more heirloom sewing in future projects, and have all sort of ideas of how to add it in to some of my planned upcoming queue - especially pin tucking! But I have not had time for much sewing since the new baby, so it may be a while before I can experiment some more. 

I really like how the little details take it up a notch from my standard me-made garments. It was fun to take a little more time and effort, yet still have a relatively quick project to keep me from procrastinating. Some of these techniques really are timeless, and a great addition to a seamstress's arsenal!

Adjustable Maternity Wardrobe: Success?

Now that I am back to normal size, I've been able to see how well my adjustable dresses made during pregnancy, work for a non-pregnant shape. The answer in a nutshell is - some better than others!

My tie front dresses I have not worn since the baby was born, since they do not open down the front for nursing access. I am confident they will look fine, once I can wear them again, because the pattern was not intended for maternity in the first place. This particular dress got a ton of wear and no longer looks so fresh!

1940s anchor dress

 

This dress, created by combining 2 different patterns, turned out to be my most flattering maternity dress during pregnancy. I really like it. I do think the general idea would work for a non-maternity pattern as well, but since I made it during pregnancy, I ended up with an empire waist, which looks quite nice with a baby belly. Wearing it without the baby belly now makes the waist band fit around my rib cage instead of my waist, which I don't like, so I will retire this one with my other maternity clothes. If I make this pattern combo again, I will make the waist hit farther down, so that it will work better for non-maternity.

Thankfully I have enough fabric to make another dress that fits me now!

1930s adjustable floral dress

 

I have not gotten pictures of my 1930s house dress without the baby bump, but I have documented another version with normal proportions, so I know how it will look and fit.

1930s house dress worn while pregnant

earlier tropical version worn while not pregnant

 

I made two versions of Butterick 6485. The rayon version was photographed while I was still small enough that you can pretty well tell how it looks now. I wore it through the whole pregnancy, and was very happy with it.

 

I made it again in cotton, and didn't like this version as well to wear while pregnant. It looked ok when I was just large enough to want an adjustable waist, but once I got to the last few months, it made me feel even bigger than normal. Any woman who has gone through the months of pregnancy knows that is not a nice feeling.

 

So I did another photo shoot to show if normal proportions would help, or if this pattern is one that really does need the limpness of rayon.

 

It looks better for sure, but I still am happier with the rayon version (both for maternity and regular), so likely will not make this again in cotton. 

 

(I had fun with a more structured hairstyle this time than my usual brush-out. It ended up looking a bit more late-'40s I thought.)

 

My blue and red adjustable dress started out too snug for how large I had become by the time I made it, as you can see in the first batch of photos I took. It would work well for previous months, but definitely is one I would grow out of during the last few months.

 

How well does it work though without the baby bump? Pretty well, I think!

 

Nice and trim with the belt, and the extra gathers in the back allow for plenty of movement and comfort without looking obviously maternity. I'm happy with how well my alterations to this pattern worked out.

 

So overall, I would say that the patterns I experimented with were successful, especially since none of them were officially "maternity". All of them I would wear again, though some of them not for the entire pregnancy.

Some I have retired for now, while others remain in my closet, and yet others will have their turn when the baby is weaned. It was a fun experiment, but I'm very happy to fit back in my normal clothes again and be able to give the dresses I made earlier this spring while I was still small, a few more outings yet before winter!

Quick & Easy Pattern Sizing (Not for Perfectionists!)

Over my years of blogging, I have had a number of inquiries about how I do my pattern sizing (or rather, pattern re-sizing), to take a vintage pattern that is too large or too small for my measurements, and make it fit. 

 

The most accurate method is the cut-and-spread method, where the pattern pieces are traced, slashed, and carefully, mathematically spread or overlapped in just the right way to make all the dimensions larger or smaller as needed. (A good tutorial for this method can be found here.)

However, as I have frequently stated on the blog, I am Not A Perfectionist, and that method is way too time consuming for me. I prefer a less accurate and much faster way, which I will show you here. I have used this for every pattern I have resized during years of sewing garments - most of the time with quite good results.

 

This method works best for only sizing up or down one size, but it can be used successfully for skipping multiple sizes with more care and trial-and-error.

Not every pattern works for this, however. You need one with a relatively simple back. My green plaid dress, for instance, would not work very well to resize because all those dart tucks on the bodice would need re-spaced, unless you added or subtracted exactly the right amount of fabric to take out or add one dart tuck.

 

Here are some more examples of patterns which do not work well for resizing without a lot more thought and work. The first one has evenly spaced darts and seams the whole way around the skirt. The second one also has a skirt yoke with evenly spaced points the whole way around.

 

Here are examples of patterns that are easy to resize. This one is very basic, with one back bodice piece (potentially a collar piece if you do the view with a collar) and one back skirt piece, all on the fold:

 

This one is also easy, though not quite so intuitive. It has a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam.

 

This one has more pieces, but as you can see, it is still easy since most of the back pieces - yoke, collar, bodice, and inset belt - are on the fold, while there is a center back seam on the skirt.

 

Resizing One Size Different

Ok, now. To size a pattern up two inches or one size, first look at your pattern instructions. Many of these old patterns have what they call "let out seams" which are deep seam allowances on the side seams. That may be all you need - if you sew a 3/4 inch seam allowance only 1/4 inch deep on each side, for example, that gives you your extra two inches right there.

If the let out seams are not a feature, or you need more than the extra room they provide, first look at the back sketch, which might be on the front or the back of the pattern envelope. If the back pieces (including facing) are to be cut on the fold, I simply lay each of them one inch off the fold. One inch doubled makes 2 inches added. 

 

To size a pattern down, I will lay each piece one inch overlapping the fold, which takes 2 inches out of the center back skirt and bodice.

 

Please note: I have not noticed any difference with dart placement on the front by doing this. Usually the difference between the dart placement for one size is very slight, which you can tell if you look at a modern multi-size pattern, and I have not had any problems with the front fit by adding or taking out 2 inches of fabric in the back. So I usually let all other pieces untouched when resizing one size up or down.

If one or both back pieces have a seam down the center, to size it up I simply add an inch to the center back seam. You can either measure and mark it, or just eyeball it as you cut if you trust yourself. So I would cut where my finger is, instead of where the edge of the pattern is. Make sure you pay attention to which is the center back seam for the skirt pieces, though, so you aren't adding it to the back side seams instead!

 

Many patterns have a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam, like some of the examples above. I would lay the back bodice piece (and facing) off the fold and cut the center back skirt seam an inch away from the edge of the pattern. To size it down, I would overlap the back bodice piece on the fold, and trim the center back skirt seam an inch narrower - where my finger is, on the photo below. The best way to do this is to cut and mark the other 3 sides of the skirt piece, then unpin the pattern piece and move it over one inch to cut the last seam - that way all your markings for that edge are also moved over and you get an accurate flare or curve.

 

Adding or taking away the same amount from all center back piece means that your darts and skirt seams should still match up - there is simply less or more fabric back there.

Keep in mind that ALL the back seams need to be the same, whether you are adding or subtracting. So if you have a pattern with an extended collar that meets in the back like this one, the collar seam on the FRONT bodice also needs to be added to or trimmed off - both on the front bodice piece and on the facing piece. 

 

I admit I often forget this one, and like for my gray rayon dress, ended up piecing the bodice collar and recutting the facing since that is on the top and is the piece you see when the collar is finished. 

 

If you have a Peter Pan collar, or some other type of collar that is not on the fold when the bodice is, you have to add the same amount to the back of the collar as you did to the fold of the bodice. Again, I usually cut part of it, then move the collar down an inch and finish cutting it; that way the curve remains correct.

In a nutshell, all additions or subtractions need to be the same, for all the back pieces. Just take some time to look over the pattern and recognize how many pieces need altered, and which ones need it on the seam and which on the fold. Usually at a minimum it will be bodice, back center skirt, and back facing (unless you are just using a bias facing strip, which you would simply cut a little longer).

 

Resizing Bigger Differences

Now, things get more complicated when you are sizing up several sizes, like doing a size 12 pattern for a size 16 or 18 measurements, like this 1940s summer suit I did last year.

 

As a general rule of thumb, I will not add or subtract more than 3 inches total to the center back. This means that if I need to size a pattern up 4 inches, I will lay the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches off the fold (1 1/2 inches doubled adds 3 inches total) or cutting 1 1/2 inches away from center back seams, and add 1/2 inch to the side seams when I am cutting it out. This would include bodice side seams, skirt side seams, and sleeve side seams. Also cuff side seams if the pattern has them. 

To size it down, I reverse the process, laying the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches overlapping the fold (or trimming from center back seams), and trimming 1/2 inch from all the side seams. 

If I am sizing up more than 4 inches, I will add up to 3 inches to the center back as previously described, then split the remaining inches and add that to the side seams. But the bigger the resizing, the riskier the fit is, and by this time there often is a significant difference in bust dart placement on the front, so it's best to do a trial version or a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

For my 1940s summer suit, I actually added too much fabric in, and had to add a 2nd dart to each side of the back to make it fit me. That worked since it was a jacket and didn't necessarily need to match up with skirt back seams like a dress might. But that's a risk when winging it to this extent without a muslin.

 

Also, altering a pattern 4 inches or more can create fit issues at the neck, sleeve tightness, and bust/waist ratio. My adjustable house dress here has fit issues at the neck since I took out too much of the yoke and back and didn't do a muslin first. If I do this pattern again, I will trim more off the side seams and take less out of the back yoke and center back panel.

 

This one I sized up about 6 inches, and it has sleeves that are a tad too tight for comfort since I didn't add quite enough on to them when cutting them out. Thankfully it is still wearable. Also it has interesting 2 part sleeve construction, which made me study which even were the right seams to add to the seam allowance!

 

I do generally have no issues at all when resizing only one size up or down, and that alone gives you a lot more freedom when buying patterns. If you are a size 16 for instance, now you can also buy size 14 and size 18, with no qualms. To do more than that requires more trial and error, but still can be done. Plus it is very quick and easy, requiring little extra time when cutting out a pattern, once you've thought through your changes.

Helpful? Clear as January mud? Let me know if you have any questions, or how well it works for you if you try it!

Verity Vintage Studio

The Addition

Baby Betsy arrived early yesterday morning!

 

As a result, we are taking it easy around here, just recuperating and enjoying the baby. 

I was pretty sure the baby would be a girl, so I went ahead and made up a little dress just in case, out of leftovers from one of my summer dresses. She has to grow into it first, but since she's a redhead maybe I should have picked a different color! :-) 

 

I'm looking forward to getting back to my sewing queue, fashion posts, and blogging routine, but until energy returns and healing happens, doing a bit of hand work on the sofa is more my speed. 

Have a great week, everybody!

New Sewing Horizons

No fashion post today...I'm too close to my due date to make any more maternity clothes, and the few clothes I've made for afterwards of course can't be photographed yet! I am happy to report that most of my non-maternity maternity makes this year still fit and have been getting a lot of wear.

That doesn't mean I haven't been busy making things, however. I'm between crochet deadlines right now, so while I'm waiting for the materials to arrive for my next designs, I have been doing some little stitchery things. It's been years since I've done any ribbon embroidery or cross stitch, but I really enjoyed both again. Definitely a good idea to do something different once in a while!

 

But my sewing has been far from standing still just because I have no garments to show you at the moment. A little while ago, I wanted to order some fabric from mybluprint.com (formerly Craftsy) and because I could get a better deal by taking out a subscription for a month, I did that. I didn't really expect to do much class watching, but thought since I could do it for the next month I might as well see if anything caught my eye.

The first thing that did was Susan Stewart's heirloom sewing technique classes, which I ended up watching at least part of several times. They are so well done, and just amazing! I never thought I would be interested in heirloom sewing - and I guess I still am not in the sense of making those intricate little girl's dresses so popular in the '90s - but I sure can see multiple ways to incorporate some of those same techniques in my own sewing and vintage style! It looks so very difficult, but really, most of it is super easy when broken down into steps, and can be done on the machine. I highly recommend those classes. As a result, I promptly looked for some twin needles and a slant shank pin tuck foot for my machine, so I can sew pin tucks and tiny piping. Also I bought some water soluble stabilizer for the first time, which is a fun little thing to work with. 

 

I experimented with these new tools by practicing several of Susan's techniques on a 1940s blouse (shown in progress below), which I can't wait to wear and show you after I'm normally sized again. And I have to say I'm hooked. I'm so excited to have the know-how for various types of lace insertion, pin tucks, mini piping, and other fun stuff I normally would never have attempted. Plus it's actually pretty easy.

 

Then I also watched a class on pattern drafting from an existing garment. The teacher actually used a New Look era jacket style blouse as an example. I don't know how much I will do this, but I'm glad to have a basic idea of how to, if I need to. A perfect way to copy a vintage garment into a less fragile fabric, or another color, for example. As a result of that class, I ordered some dressmaking rulers in case I ever need them, and some quilting rulers too since they are so versatile.

 

I watched a class on neckline and seam finishes, and ended up trying out fusible interfacing for the first time. That may seam like a no-brainer to most of you, but you have to remember that I learned sewing from my mother, who only used very basic tools. She did not enjoy sewing, though she is quite good at it and can make multiple looks from one base pattern - something I don't even want to attempt! I only started using any sort of interfacing more recently, and since I knew nothing about the confusing bolts in the store with so many options, weights, and names, I stuck with using muslin for interfacings. Well, now that I've discovered I can interface collars and things without it sliding around - I'm never looking back!

 

But the real revolution happened with another type of sewing altogether.

Lauren of Wearing History, whom I follow on Instagram, posted about how much she has enjoyed the slow process and precise work of English Paper Piecing since being recently introduced to it. I had heard of EPP before, but knew nothing about it. What she wrote interested me enough that I looked it up, and while I was intrigued, there was a level of tedium in all the card cutting and basting and removing basting thread and cards that I thought I probably wouldn't enjoy. But I went ahead and watched a class on EPP, since I could.

Well, the class was taught by Helen Stubbings, an Australian designer who had invented an alternative to the traditional paper cards, by using fusible paper templates that were half water-soluble and half stabilizer, so they didn't need to be removed after the project. That sounded like a perfect happy medium for me! The templates are fused on, keep the little shapes precise (something I could never do on my own because I am not a perfectionist), yet you can just glue the fabric around them, sew the little shapes together, and move right on to your appliqué or quilting. The perfect blend of slow work and quick work for me, though I can definitely see how the traditional method would appeal to some. While I don't think I would tackle a whole quilt (mostly because I really dislike the finish work of binding and quilting), I could think of a lot of ways to play with appliqués made from these shapes. You will likely see some in the very near future - though don't expect this to turn into a quilting blog!

 

Of course I jumped in, ordered some of her paper templates, and as soon as the first ones arrived I made a little project to wet my feet. It was super fun! The hexagons are actually not my favorite shape out there, and I'm picky about what patterns I like since I'm not a fan of the really scrappy look, but I am super excited for the rest of the shapes to arrive so I can play with them. I have quite a few ideas already. I certainly shouldn't have to buy fabric except for special projects, so the templates will be my only expense. Only now I can't even throw away the smaller scraps when I'm cutting out a dress, so I really will be inundated with leftovers!

 

This potholder I made with her 1" hexagon templates assembled by hand, appliquéd by machine using the blind-hem stitch (super easy and quick), and then the background fabric cut out in a circle. I fused interfacing to the back (see how I like to play with my new tools!) and edged it with rickrack before putting the back on. It took maybe a couple of hours to make, and is so cute and cheery! 

 

So as you can see, my horizons have really expanded this month to include all sorts of new techniques. It was definitely worth the $8 I paid for a month's access, especially since I also got a major discount for signing up, and their membership price discounts through the month of July to get fabric with. Now I have to decide if there are enough other classes that interest me enough to pay for another month or not, but as it is, I should have plenty to keep me busy going forward!