Verity Vintage Studio

1950s Adjustable Dress for Thanksgiving

I hadn't done any personal sewing since July, but when I got a fun new vintage pattern from an Instagram seller I wanted to try to make it up right away and see if it would work for maternity, since it was adjustable. Thanksgiving Day was a good deadline to aim for.

 

I was missing the back piece, but since front and back panel looked identical, I just used the front panel again. It worked perfectly except I should have lengthened it since the back yoke is shorter.

 

I used a textured solid cotton basic called Shades from Riley Blake Designs. I love using quilting basics when I can, because they have a much larger color selection and availability. This one has a subtle textured print and looks kind of like linen.

 

I liked that the pleats would show up on it better than on a print, then at the last minute decided to dress it up even more by doing some a fancy sewing machine stitch to embroider yokes and down the front. I love tone on tone embroidery, and the depth it gives to a solid fabric.

 

There was lots of folding and pressing pleats, but really that was the longest part (and taking care to get them right paid off with no frustration). Otherwise assembly was super simple; I just had a few long seams before sewing to the yoke.

 

I also added a hidden closure under each edge pleat to allow for nursing access. We'll see how well it works in real life - but I do love how it's a different opening than just a regular button front.

The final dress shape turned out like a long tube, but as you can see it still fit over my 8 month bump. I'm curious to see how it looks once I have a waist, but since it was intended to be worn simply belted as non-maternity wear, I'm sure it will both look nice and be comfortable.

 

The pattern was for a sleeveless dress, but since I don't wear sleeveless, I looked through my patterns for a suitable sleeve, and settled on these cute tulip sleeves. It's been a while since I made them, but I really like them and how easy and unusual they are. I should have remembered to cut the sleeve holes a bit bigger before I set the sleeves, but now I know for next time!

 

It was fun to sew for myself again, taking my time, with something both unusual and simple. Plus I have another adjustable dress pattern to add to my non-maternity-but-maternity-friendly collection!

 

We had an incredible midday feast with family, then watched a classic movie. It was a lovely holiday. I hope you all had a good Thanksgiving too!

Brown Floral 1930s Style Adjustable Dress

Finally catching up with the last personal sewing project I made, way back in the summer when the world was still smoky. 

 

And...it was the first trial of a new adjustable dress pattern. It needed to be adjustable because we are expecting Baby 3 here in a few months!

 

Actually, this was a 1940s nightgown pattern. I studied it for a while and decided if I made it dress length, in a cotton fabric, it wouldn't look too nightgown-y. Hopefully that was successful!

 

I did heighten the V neckline a bit, and intended to do some decorative trim around the V. But after looking at it on the mannequin I decided it needed a collar. Being short on time, I hunted through my vintage linens stash. Didn't find a V collar that would work, but I went a bit more creative than my normal rut and used a delicate vintage hankie instead. 

 

I like how it looks, plus it was so easy. No collar to cut and interface and press, all the pretty hand work already done. Plus it helps the dress look more like a dress and not a nightgown. 

 

This was my first time making a neck with a V in the back too, and it took me a bit to get used to having my hair against my back!

 

The front is shaped by closely spaced darts. The loose back adjusts with ties (bonus for no closures needed!) Here you can see on the mannequin something of how it would look on a normal-sized waist. 

 

Even though it's a 1940s pattern, the collar and print really gave it a 1930s feel, so that's how I styled it - including some new summer shoes from BAIT footwear.

 

This is the first maternity-suitable sewing I've done so far this pregnancy, once I outgrew regular patterns. It was a fun quick and easy project, and used some long-stashed quilting cotton. Also, being brown, it's a nice color variety in my wardrobe. 

 

I haven't done any personal sewing since, being busy with a lot of other projects, but I'm starting to feel the itch again. I may have to try one or two more adjustable dress patterns before I don't need them anymore.

1930s Geometric Dress

Finally catching up on the last of my backlog of blog projects! When I made my Liberty floral dress a while ago, I liked it so much and was intrigued by the design possibilities if I did not make it all in one fabric, so before I even put the pattern away again, I cut out a second dress. This is it. 

 

Thankfully in the world of modern quilting cotton, while some prints work well for vintage sewing and some not so much, there are always geometric prints to be counted on. They are classic and universal throughout the decades of fashion. Out of one of Riley Blake Designs mostly modern new lines this spring, Tea with Bea, I picked out a geometric that would work perfect for Art Deco sewing.

 

It works so well with this quite classic 1930s dress pattern, and I love the different look changing up a few things gave to the dress compared to the all-over floral version shown earlier. 

 

 

I made it exactly like the other, since I was so pleased with that one's fit - but this time I made the V insert and the collar in a contrast.

 

I picked out the diamond motif in a appliqué on each collar corner, just for fun, using the EPP technique I use for appliqués on quilts.

 

The only other changes were to add an extra row of buttons on the front, and to make the sleeves differently just for variety.

 

I wanted a V sleeve, so I was going to use the same sleeves from my Easter dress pattern. But when I started sewing the tucks, I realized the geometric pattern would not work well for that. The lines went all wonky and drove my eyes crazy. So I cheated and simply bound the edge with 2 small faceted black buttons to create the V. 

Not surprisingly, I ended up liking plan B even better than the original idea!

 

Because of how very 1930s the dress looked, I paired it with some of my more flamboyant and obviously Art Deco accessories - my favorite exaggerated gauntlets, and a new to me wool tilt hat that I added a touch of color to by pinning a vintage corsage to the side.

 

It's interesting to me how a simple change in fabric style, color placement, and accessories can make this version much more formal than the first floral one.

 

Also I wore a new pair of shoes which I had recently gotten on clearance, Romona from BAIT footwear in black. A lot of their styles are not quite vintage-suitable to a purist like me, but this one works well and was comfortable to wear all day on their first outing. I already owned them in blue, and knew I needed to size up a half size for these.

 

I actually made this dress back in June, and got to photograph it at a lovely park when we did a family outing for Father's Day. I wore another hat with it part of the day, so here's a slightly different look in the lovely rose garden at the park.

 

I don't often make the same pattern twice in a row, but since this was the second time everything went quite quickly since I knew what I was doing. And I have to say it's my favorite make so far this year.

Quick & Simple Pillowcase Tutorial

Riley Blake Designs came out with the cutest woodsy kids fabric line this summer called Camp Woodland. I had to snag a few prints to use for my little boy's room. I debated what to do with it, but ended up deciding to make pillowcases!

 

My small son is very enamored of the bears, and loves to pick out the animal kinds on the blue toile print (my personal favorite). And pillowcases like this are so easy to make, you can sew them with very little sewing experience. Everything is worked flat, so it is super simple!

 

There is minimal cutting too, since the fabric width is the right width for a pillowcase.

You will need 3/4 yard main fabric, 1/4 yard contrast for the band, and if you choose an extra top stitched band, a few inches of fabric for that as well.

 

1. Cut the main fabric piece to 27 inches long x fabric width, and trim off the selvedge.

2. Cut the band fabric 9 inches long x the fabric width. (If you get a half yard of this print, you have enough to cut it in half and do 2 pillowcases.)

3. Cut the contrast narrow band 2 inches long x the fabric width. Here are all 3 pieces ready to sew.

 

You can also line them up ahead of time to get a feel for what the finished product will look like.

 

Lay out your main piece of fabric, and place the wide band fabric at one end, right sides together. If you are using a direction print, make sure the direction will go the way you want it to when this seam is sewn. (My son is talking to the bears on this picture.)

 

4. Sew the wide band to the main piece (1/2 or 5/8" seam is fine), then press it with the seam toward the band.

 

You could totally leave it with just a simple contrast band like this, but adding a narrow extra band is a fun trim and a good way to tie in a different color or print.

 

5. Take your narrow band. Fold the sides toward the center and press them.

 

6. Center over the band seam, and top stitch close to each edge.

 

Here is your finished piece.

 

7. Now fold it in half lengthwise, and sew the L shaped seam at the top and side, leaving the band edge open.

 

I serged this seam to finish it. You can leave it unfinished or finish it with your favorite method instead.

 

I also serged the band edge, but you could also use seam binding to finish it or just fold it over a half inch and press.

 

Last step - fold the band in half and pin the finished edge to the inside just under your seam.

 

8. Prop up your feet and do a quick hand stitch to keep the band in place. This will create a lovely finish on the inside.

 

Give it a good press and you're done! 

I didn't time myself, but I think you could make this start to finish in a half hour.

 

It's the perfect way to incorporate some fun fabrics into a child's or adult room. Think how fun it would be to have coordinating pillowcases to a quilt you made!

 

So there's a quick sewing fix to use some cute prints and freshen up a bedroom. Let me know if you try making one!

Baby Sailor Dress

This dress has been long on my list and I realized that with summer coming to a close, I needed to hurry up and make it! So I cut it out Wednesday and put the bodice together, finished it yesterday, and so here we are. 

(Baby dresses are SO much more instant gratification than other sewing projects!)

 

The print fabric is too adorable. It's from Set Sail America by Riley Blake Designs, the same collection I made my 1950s sailboat dress from, and I loved the vintage style novelty sailor print. Perfect for a little girl's dress! My three-year-old son is deeply interested in the fact that the men are holding flags.

I paired it with some of their Swiss Dot fabric for the collar, and some Confetti Cotton in navy for the contrast.

 

I used the same 1950s baby pattern as the pink goose dress I made for her earlier this year, but of course I added some changes since I rarely make exactly the same thing twice. I used the scalloped collar view, and instead of a sash added a decorative band to the waist. It gives the same definition and contrast as a sash, but no ends to fuss over and tie.

 

I took a pinch out of the front bodice to help it fit better, but otherwise hoped she had grown into the pattern size a bit more now that she's two - and it fits her very well.

 

The skirt is supposed to be twice this wide! But I thought the width of the fabric would be quite enough for such a small girl, so only cut one panel. It was definitely easier to gather than the original skirt. 

 

I debated on what to add to the collar. There were so many options! But I ended up opting for some hand embroidery, with tiny bows at each scallop point. 

 

The sailor theme is also picked up with the vintage anchor buttons I had in my stash, which both add decoration and help keep the waist band in place. 

 

I have been so busy this past month with quilt and crochet deadlines, as well as getting a small local business outfitted and running, that I have had no time at all for fun sewing. After piecing 3 of my 6 upcoming quilt deadlines, plus another for myself, I was tired of making quilts and ready for a quick garment. This was the perfect fix!

 

And the fact that my baby girl is old enough to love pretty clothes and get excited over new dresses makes it even more fun for me to make her something. 

 

I suppose technically a sailor dress should have a square collar. But this fabric was nautical enough that I decided to call it a sailor dress anyway. The main thing is that she loves it!

 

1930s Liberty Floral Dress

It's project tour time for the Carnaby Collection fabric line!

 

This 1930s dress was made and photographed during the evening light in late May, which is why the pictures are so green. It definitely is not this green here by now, especially since it's a drought year. 

 

I honestly don't know how many years this poor tattered 1930s pattern has languished in my collection. When I had the opportunity to sew with some Liberty of London prints from their new Carnaby line (distributed by Riley Blake Designs), one floral jumped out at me. I just love the retro style, and of course it's my favorite color combo. But the fabric was so busy I needed a simple 1930s pattern to pair it with, so finally this pattern had its chance to shine. 

 

And I can't believe I waited so long to make it. It actually fits me, unlike so many 1930s patterns which definitely need a lot of tweaking before they come close to fitting, since the fashionable silhouette back then was quite different than my natural shape. And it was simple to make, with just enough unique interest to make it special.

 

Plus of course, the double line of slanted buttons made it another variety to my button-front dress patterns. 

 

As you can see, the pattern includes a lot of options. When I tried on my version, I realized that it would be too tight for me over the bust if I buttoned it straight on like the illustrations show - but how easy it was to get a perfect fit by angling the bodice out into a V over the insert! Plus that gave the front even more style interest.

 

Pyramid buttons added a bit more of an Art Deco touch (though they are a pain to button and unbutton). 

 

I assembled the collar a bit differently than the pattern called for, to omit the need for a facing, and it turned out perfectly for a wonder.

 

Otherwise it was a fast and easy make, so enjoyable that I promptly made it again in another fabric (show you soon!) before I put the pattern away again. I think it will be my go-to 1930s dress pattern.

 

I actually made this dress ahead of schedule in time to wear for Memorial Day, which was perfect since it is red, white, and blue. The touches of pink are genius. Even though this fabric collection is inspired but the retro mod era of the '60s and '70s, I think this print (along with a few others) crossed over to also do a perfect 1930s style. And sewing with this cotton was a dream - definitely a great first time experience with Liberty of London fabric. 

 

I'm getting Sound of Music vibes from this photo!

 

This one and its sister dress still to be revealed are my favorite sewing projects this year so far. Yet another favorite in the closet!

Modeled photos by Elsie's Adventuring

Turquoise 1950s Vintage Dress Find

I may have a closet full of vintage style clothes, but I hardly own any true vintage clothes. A few suits and jackets, coats, and one or two dresses is about the extent of it. It's just hard to find something that fits me and is in my price range, and is also sturdy enough that I feel comfortable wearing and washing it. As a busy mom, I can't have a lot of high maintenance clothes, which is why I usually prefer to make my own.

 

But when you're visiting a new local shop that has some antiques, and spot this beauty, realize it probably would fit, and check the price tag - and it's only $35 - what else can you do??

 

I believe it was hand made, and can appreciate the skill of the seamstress for sure. Often I don't want to spend money on something I can make myself, but this was inexpensive enough and not necessarily something I would have wanted to tackle making. 

 

I think it's linen, or a linen blend. So it wrinkles after I've been sitting on it, but has a lovely drape and weave. 

 

The neck detail and those adorable pockets are the special factor. Actually, I think the neck could be fairly easy to do if you cut and faced a square neck with a scallop and then underlaid it with a band of contrasting fabric - but scallops are not my strong point, so I'm delighted someone else did them. And who would have thought of using machine stitched buttonholes as decoration??

 

Aside from my usual trouble with the back being a trifle long waisted, it fit me very well. It has a careful darn under one arm - clearly has been well loved.

 

After wearing it for a day I need to reinforce a few seams, but otherwise it stood normal wear very well. I washed it in cold water on a delicate cycle, and dried it flat, which seemed to work just fine. 

Of course I had to pair it with ivory accessories, including a new to me 1950s hat and my favorite vintage summer heels.

 

 

So my small vintage clothing collection has expanded a little, and I'm very pleased. Oh, and I have to include a quick photo with the children since we all happened to coordinate for church.

 

I hope everyone is having a happy summer!

 

Photos by Elsie's Adventuring

Winterland 1940s Dress

It must be time for Christmas in July! Riley Blake Designs has some new holiday fabric collections out, and I knew I wanted to be part of the Winterland fabric tour even if it meant sewing with wintry fabric in the middle of summer.

 

It is not your traditional red, white, and green collection, which makes it even more fun. I love those tiny scattered snowflake dot prints. And who can resist tiny cardinals in birch trees?? There are so many pretty prints in this one, and since I also have a fat quarter bundle to play with, I'm sure more quilty projects will be forthcoming. But meanwhile I had to choose my favorite print to make a dress out of. 

Flatly photo courtesy of Riley Blake Designs.

It's been a while since I made a 1940s dress. This year I've been camped out in the 1930s and 1950s apparently. But I recently got a "new" (actually old and very tattered) pattern for a late 1940s robe, and decided to make it in dress form. 

 

The main design feature was a very large cape-like collar option, which I decided to go for since it was unusual. I second-guessed myself several times during the process of sewing and fitting, but in the end I like how it looks after all. 

 

I shortened it quite a bit to make it as a dress, aiming for more of a mid-1940s style, and even still ended up just barely squeezing the pattern pieces on the fabric I had. Those front skirt panels are HUGE. I took quite a bit of width out of them to fit them on the fabric.

 

Other than the collar, it's a pretty typical easy button-front dress. I always appreciate how easy it is to get in and out of button-front dresses rather than the typical "pretzel" method of removing vintage style dresses.

 

I do enjoy a pattern that controls a full skirt with darts at the waist. So flattering. It's one of the details I look for in patterns. 

 

After trying out several options, I went with red and white buttons, and a red belt, to pick out the tiny red dots in the print. But navy, brown, pine green, or of course white would have worked equally well.

 

I love that the print is not so Christmassy that I couldn't wear it in the fall and winter as well. I think the delicate pine branches and tiny scattered snowflakes are just so sweet.

 

I enjoy having this already in my closet, ready for when the first whispery snowfall comes.

 

1930s Easy Summer Dress

Time to catch up with another past project!

 

This was my favorite print from the Blue Stitch collection by Riley Blake Designs, so of course I had to make a dress. Quilting cotton is so perfect for summer clothes, and a confetti-like geometric dot print in my favorite color is ideal for vintage sewing. It could have worked for various eras and styles, but I settled on a new to me 1930s pattern for a princess style dress. 

 

It was one of those that is only 3 pieces plus the facing, so while it was challenging to fit on my yardage, it was fast to cut out and easy to put together. It does have some fun details though - trust the 1930s for that! The princess seam has a yoke in the front, cap sleeves cut all in one with the main pieces, and the shaping is formed by gathers and long darts - one in the back and 3 in the front. 

 

This makes it very easy to adjust for size or waist length, as I can just deepen the darts or make them more shallow. 

 

It was supposed to have a side zipper, as the buttons go just to the waist, but I made it loose enough that I could slip it over my head and just belt the extra in. Another time I will cut the button overlap a little longer so it reaches to the hips, and make it a better fit at the waist. 

 

I wanted an easy to wear, cool summer dress that would work for a house dress or could be dressed up a bit. I had to tweak the fit of this one a bit after initially trying it on, but in the end I was happy with it. And I just adore the color and print of this quilting cotton! It is also available in a few others color ways as well. 

 

The bodice was intended to button all the way up, but just was too close to my throat for comfort, so I unbuttoned the top button and folded it down to make a little collar. Another time I will do this again, or just cut the square neck a little larger if I want a square neck.

And of course I loved the chance to use these large round vintage buttons from my stash. On such a simple dress, they really add a design punch.

 

But I also like that the dress pattern is not your usual princess dress pattern. I have plans for another version sometime in the future. 

 

Meanwhile during this sustained record-high heat wave here, I am grateful for cool cotton dresses like this one.

Christmas in June: Reversible Placemats with Poppie Cotton

When I got the chance to play with a little of Poppie Cotton's upcoming Christmas line, Snuggle Up Buttercup, of course I jumped at the chance. I mean - little retro pink pickups! How can you not??

 

I have been so busy this month and juggling so many deadlines, that I had to figure out something relatively quick and easy to make for my blog feature when it came my turn for the Snuggle Up Buttercup tour. A reversible placemat set was the answer!

 

I use a lot of placemats for everyday use, on their own or on top of a table cloth where the children sit. It is so much easier to toss a placemat in the wash than change a tablecloth due to one spill. And I have a lot of lovely floral ones, but as I discovered last Christmas, nothing suitable for the holidays. I was happy to change that.

 

I picked out 4 my favorite prints from the fabric line and used them for the solid side, then divided the measurement in 3rds, added a half inch for seam allowance, and cut out 3 strips to piece together for the remaining side. I used exactly 8 fat quarters, since the leftovers after cutting the strips were just enough for binding.

 

To finish it, I used some smaller pieces of leftover batting and did some big stitch quilting using size 10 crochet cotton in several coordinating colors. Big stitch quilting both quilts and adds a decorative element - plus it looks great on both sides so it works well for a reversible project like this.

 

Instantly I have all these different looks for my table. I made 4 placemats, but I actually have 8 options here. I can use all the pieced side...

 

...all the solid side, or alternate them! Each one gives a different look to a table setting, yet they all coordinate.

 

The exact same placemat on one side...

 

...and on the other. 

 

I like how simple these are and quick to make - truly beginner friendly. And the large strips mean that the fabric really shines, rather than being cut up into small blocks. So it's ideal for showcasing your favorite prints!

 

Of course, the binding still has a "right side" and a "wrong side", but I make sure to hand stitch the binding invisibly using tiny stitches, so it's as unobtrusive as possible. 

 

So that's it for my fun holiday project right as summer is ramping up its heat! Make sure to check out the other lovely creations during the project tour for this adorable fabric line.

 

Friday, June 18	http://neverlandstitches.blogspot.com/
Monday, June 21	http://www.linenbouquet.com
Wednesday, June 23	https://verityvintagestudio.typepad.com/my-blog/
Friday, June 25	https://thisandthatpatterns.typepad.com/
Monday, June 28	http://prettybyhand.com/
Wednesday, June 30	http://happylittlecottage.blogspot.com/
Friday, July 2	https://www.nannygoatquilts.com/