Verity Vintage Studio

Late '30s Purple House Dress with Basin Feedsacks

My darker cotton house dresses were in constant rotation this summer, so I wanted to make a few more. I had this length of 1930s repro cotton from Riley Blake Design's recent line Basin Feedsacks, so after a little debate, I settled on doing a second version of one of my most loved everyday dresses. I wear the blue one so constantly it is faded by now and probably going to wear out in the near future.

 

I left off the little collar this time, since it never lays flat and is a source of irritation on the blue dress. I like the plain V much better!

 

The purple fabric is more of a subtle print, so I hoped the cute little triple-dart shoulder details would show up better here than they do on the blue floral. I think that was successful. Narrow white cotton lace outlines the V yoke.

 

I also tweaked the neck fit by adding a couple of small darts in the back to pull it in, so it's definitely a better fit than the blue one.

 

Just for fun, and since this is a house dress, I decided to take the extra step of adding pockets. I echoed the white V on the shoulders with a white V on the pocket flap, and am really glad I took the extra time.

 

I have really been loving purple lately. It's the perfect September-y transitional color from summer to fall, and always makes me think of the wild asters that bloom lavender this time of year. In her books, some of L. M. Montgomery's characters called wild asters “farewell-summers”, and I just love that old-fashioned, perfectly-descriptive name.

 

The sun was bright today, so the shaded hay barn made a good backdrop. I like the contrast of gold and purple.

 

I'm really happy with this dress – the pattern and fabric combination, the fit, the color. It will be a fun splash of color in my everyday wardrobe, and no doubt will be kept as busy as the blue one.

1940s Brown Floral 2 Piece

Fallish fabrics are finding their way to the top of my sewing queue these days. Such was the case with this pretty floral, another color way of my favorite Lori Holt print from her recent Cook Book fabric line (you may still be able to track some down online). I used the aqua print for my Memorial Day dress, so this one I also wanted to sew something 1940s, but with a fairly different style.

 

I chose a 2 piece pattern, so that I could mix and match. Think how cute the jacket would be if worn with a red skirt. Or a brown blouse with this skirt.

 

Summer suits were very popular in the 1940s, so I have a few different pattern options. But I settled on a new version of the vintage Simplicity 4736 pattern I made a few years ago in blue for Easter.

 

This time I was a bit more adventurous and opted for the larger square collar. Then I wanted to jazz it up a bit. A wide collar gives quite a bit of opportunity for all sorts of decoration. I thought of embroidery, but ended up trying something I never did before – open work.

 

To do this, you just trace a simple shape on the fabric, cover it with a very narrow, dense zig-zag stitch, and then cut out the center. It was an interesting variation to my usual decorative attempts, and I think makes it look less homemade.

 

I had to redo one side of the jacket ruching to make it even, but otherwise the assembly was pretty basic and quick.

 

I was happy to have a use for some of my large collection of red buttons. White buttons tend to be my default.

 

Summer cotton suits are a very nice style, especially when nursing. A flattering fit, mix and match ability, a bit more formal style for church - but easy nursing access and quite cool & comfortable for hot weather.

 

For these photos I had to give my giant 1940s hat an outing.

 

And how perfectly do these gloves match the suit fabric??

 

Altogether, I was very pleased with this sewing project. I will have to squeeze in a few more wearings while it is still warm!

 

 

1940s Brown Print Dress with Lori Holt Fabric

While vacationing back east this spring, I got a cute 1940s pattern at an antique mall. Luckily it was complete. I ended up pairing it with my second favorite of the new Lori Holt prints (fabric is from Cook Book line by Riley Blake Designs).

 

It's quite a rare color for me, but I ended up really liking it - perhaps because it's a cool-toned brown. The print is spot on for vintage fabric reproduction, and has a large enough scale to look good as a garment - which is usually the challenge when sewing dresses with quilting cotton. I only wish it came in more color-ways!

 

Because it's a busier print, I knew the yoke details would get lost, so I outlined them with white ric-rac points. 

 

I omitted the ruffle on the front, but I think I will try it, if I make this pattern again. 

 

It had unique construction, and I had to apply my mind to the pattern instructions in order to figure it out, since the front piece is both bodice, band, and facing. But I was successful in the end, and I really love how it turned out! It's fun to still run across a challenge in a simple dress pattern, even after years of experience.

 

Large brown buttons from my stash were a good choice, and are very easy to button and unbutton with one hand while I'm nursing. 

 

I will wear it as a house dress, but I styled it a bit more formally for these photos with one of my favorite vintage hats, and my top favorite treasured vintage heels. A good print dress can be dressed up or down, as the fashion plates of the era often demonstrate so well.

 

I'm getting lots of sewing done these days, in between house work and canning, and am delighted to make the switch from a folded length of fabric on a stack, to a wearable, cute dress in the closet! There's always something magical about that transformation.

It's perfect for these busy late summer days, and I know will get a lot of wear.

1940s Novelty Blouse

Sometimes 1940s and 1950s novelty prints can be a bit wild and over the top for my taste, but depending on the design, I think they can be fun. So when I saw this whimsical cloud & wind & blowing face quilting cotton, I decided to make it into a 1940s blouse.

 

It's a subtle novelty print, but still a novelty print nonetheless. 

 

I've made this pattern a while ago as a two piece, but this time I just did the blouse. It was a pretty straightforward project, other than careful cutting since it is a directional print.

 

When taking these pictures I realized I really need a new blue 1940s skirt! This is an old make and not quite the right style. But as usual I end up making the fun new things instead of the staples I especially need to pair with things like this.

 

Also I had to seize the opportunity to wear my new vintage sandals! They were an eBay find. I rarely buy vintage shoes anymore, but sometimes the size and price are right. That toe detail is too amazing!

 

The hat is one that I retrimmed. The cherries are just pinned on, so they can easily be removed if I want to change it up.

 

I really like jacket style blouses since they are more flattering, and also much more nursing-conducive, than tucked in ones. So this one is a nice addition to my summer wardrobe.

1940s Pinafore Duo with Poppie Cotton

 

I'm a sucker for strawberry prints, so when I got the chance to work with this new fabric from Poppie Cotton, of course I chose to sew with the strawberries to make a 1940s style coordinating pinafore set with my little girl.

(Isn't Betsy's Sewing Kit the cutest name??)

 

For her I first considered making an apron, but since she's growing out of all her 2T clothes, I decided to make an apron-style dress instead so she can wear it for everyday this summer and next year too.

 

I used a vintage DuBarry 5643 pattern from my stash, and did a little color blocking with a coordinating print, which both stretches the fabric and accents the design elements of the dress pattern.

 

I usually would opt for white or red accents with a fabric like this, but this time I stepped out of my comfort zone a little and used some yellow vintage rick-rac from my stash.

 

Red heart buttons were the perfect closure in the back. She's such a great little kitchen helper already!

For my coordinating pinafore, I did an apron pattern long on my list. It was reissued by Simplicity a while ago. It is definitely the most elaborate apron pattern I've ever done! It took almost as long as a dress, and took some concentration to figure out since the pieces are not as intuitive as a dress.

 

It had facings, top stitching, and darts in the back section. But I love how it turned out! I used a coordinating blue to color block for this one also, to stretch the strawberry print, and I think it even accents the scallops more to do it this way.

 

It has a full front, half sides like a regular apron that wrap almost the whole way around, adjustable waist fit with a sash, and a T back to keep it in place on the shoulders.

 

I love the scalloped hem especially, and the amount of dress coverage it gives.

 

It was certainly the right time of year to be sewing with strawberry fabric, and I enjoyed working with these lovely summery prints. The dress is a new favorite for my little girl, and the apron is finished just in time for canning season.

 

It reminds me why I love the fashions of this era so much - practical, yet always unique, feminine and flattering. And made in a high quality quilting cotton like this, I can wash and wear it, without bothering to press it, many times!

 

There are lots of other pretty prints included in this fabric line. Check out the other makers on this project tour! It's always so fun to see the variety that different people can come up with, out of the same lovely fabrics.

Monday, August 15	Instagram: @emmas_crafternoons
Wednesday, August 17	https://verityvintagestudio.typepad.com/my-blog/
Friday, August 19	http://happylittlecottage.blogspot.com/
Monday, August 22	theredfeedsack.blogspot.com
Wednesday, August 24	www.freshdewdrops.com
Friday, August 26	https://www.nannygoatquilts.com/
Monday, August 29	http://prettybyhand.com/
Wednesday, August 31	http://neverlandstitches.blogspot.com/
Friday, September 2	@elliebugmakes

 

Forget-Me-Not Dress

Yet another versatile basic...pin dots! Poppie Cotton has a lovely quilting cotton basic called Country Confetti, and with some new Bright colors coming in, I had the opportunity to make a dress with one of them. Of course I had to pick the forget-me-not color... a lovely light periwinkle sprinkled with tiny pastel dots. Perfect to make a dress with some details!

 

I have a long love for this pattern. In my early sewing days, it was one of the first more complicated patterns I tried, and also one that I actually took more pains with... and appreciated the result. It made me begin to realize that taking more pains with the process was actually worth it, and more than that: even could be fun!

 

I don't have that first dress any more, and I did make it again with vintage semi-sheer fabric years later, with lovely results. BUT the pattern doesn't have a  front opening, so I haven't been able to wear it for a long time. So with this remake, I altered it to have a front opening.

 

My very first version was made from a thrifted periwinkle sheet, with an embroidered border that I made into a belt. I re-channeled that same look with this periwinkle version, by making a floral belt that I embellished with 2 strands of floral lace overlapped and sewn down with seed beads. 

 

Instead of using the roll back collar on the pattern, I recut the front bodice to not only open in the front, but also trimmed off the collar part and made it a V neck so I could use some of my vintage collars. 

 

 

It is indeed a late '40s or early '50s pattern, but doesn't it have a Titanic or teens era feel?

 

It's quite a unique construction, since the front skirt (in two horizontally pleated pieces) wraps around to the back darts, so there are no side seams in the skirt. And I just love the back details!

 

I also skipped the cuffs on this make, because I wanted a light summer feel. AND since I'm using a vintage collar, I can swap it out for different looks if I want.

 

This fabric is perfect for this application, since to the eye it reads like a solid, but it is more interesting with all the tiny dots than a plain solid fabric. I have used it before for a background fabric on a quilt, and also a backing. It just works well for everything!

backing on my puff quilt

background for my 2 stars a day quilt

 

 

I'm super pleased with how it turned out! It's one of my favorite makes this year so far.

Versatile Basics - Gingham 1950s Summer Suit

I thought it would be fun this summer to do a hit-and-miss mini blog series featuring quilting cotton basics. Every fabric company has their own version of basics - including a solid, some other classic prints, and perhaps a few novelty prints that are company-specific - that they keep in stock constantly. I wanted to show how some of these could be utilized for garments as well as quilting and other projects, since basics are often easier to source and less expensive than some of the fancier prints. 

Starting off this series with one of my favorites - gingham!

 

Gingham is surely one of the most versatile prints, and never goes out of style. Red and white gingham will always be a kitchen accessory classic, and the fun pattern shows up perennially everywhere in clothing and home dec. It can be ultra girly, like pink gingham baby dresses, or more sophisticated - suitable for holidays or year round.

Generally, though it may come in different sizes of pattern, the 1/8" gingham is most popular for quilting because of its small scale - but fortunately that's also a good scale to use for clothing too!

 

For my outfit featuring this print, I was inspired by this vintage image from Pinterest and decided to do my own spin on recreating this lovely ensemble. 

 

I chose black and white gingham from Riley Blake Designs, and picked out from my vintage pattern stash three patterns - a narrow skirt, wide skirt, and jacket - to make a 3 piece mix-and-match outfit. 

 

It was so fun to sew and style! The jacket has so many cute details, especially the little petal inserts which I decided to cut on the bias. 

 

I also added white piping to the collar and cuffs, to bring it a little closer to the inspiration image, and had the perfect tiny white buttons in my stash - again, to match the photo. The piping added some nice structure to the collar shape.

 

It went together remarkably fast, and I really love the jacket pattern. Another time I'll tweak the fit a bit, but it's definitely a good go-to 1950s dressy jacket pattern!

 

The wide skirt is a simple 6-gored 1950s skirt. I am wearing a vintage crinoline over it, and it has a nice amount of swoosh.

 

For this styling, I went a bit more formal so I paired it with black satin heels by American Duchess, and black accessories and a corsage from my vintage collection. 

 

For the other wearing option I wanted to feature, for a slightly different silhouette, the narrow skirt has a pleat in the back to add fullness when walking.

 

I changed up a few accessories to show some of the versatility of this type of outfit, which really can be suitable for many different occasions! This is just a tiny sample of the different looks I could create.

 

So this quilting cotton is perfectly suitable for adult clothing - and it goes without saying that it's extremely common for baby and toddler clothes as well. 

 

What about other uses? Here is just a small sampling. Gingham in a baby quilt I made recently...

 

...and as an embroidered curtain for the nursery.

 

One of my favorite uses is not just an all-over main pattern, but as an accent. See how cute this vintage apron is with the gingham used as a contrast rather than the main apron?

 

But honestly, this just scratches the surface of the possibilities for this fun print. The shortest web search will give you more ideas than you can possibly need. Use it as an accent or a main theme, for clothing or anything else! Gingham quilt binding or quilt backing works just as well as gingham in the blocks, or for smaller sewing projects like pencil cases or bags. I'm sure I'll never run out of ideas for it!

4th of July Vintage Toddler Dress Makeover

Some time ago, I got this vintage toddler dress from a seller on Instagram. It was priced low because the skirt was badly rust-stained, but I knew I could do something with it so I kept it until my oldest daughter grew into this size.

 

The thin cotton had leaked the rust stains through, so it was stained both front and back, and the buttons had disintegrated. But all the stains were on the lower 2/3rds of the skirt, so the bodice (which is where all the cute detail was) was untouched.

 

It was a simple matter to trim off the skirt a few inches down, and using that to measure, cut a length of contrast fabric to replace it with.

 

Of course the shoulder button replacement was super easy - so here it is with a fresh life, just in time for the 4th of July festivities!

 

She calls it her "parade dress", and loves it - though I couldn't get her to smile for these pictures. :-) 

 

I like it also as an example of how versatile a basic pattern is, as a background canvas for creative trimming. 

 

Here's an actual smile!

 

We are having a low-key 4th today, but the children got to jump in a bouncy house and gathered up their long-awaited buckets of candy from the parade, so they are happy. 

Happy Independence Day!

 

"They tell us, sir, that we are weak; unable to cope with so formidable an adversary. But when shall we be stronger? Will it be the next week, or the next year? Will it be when we are totally disarmed, and when a British guard shall be stationed in every house? Shall we gather strength by irresolution and inaction? Shall we acquire the means of effectual resistance by lying supinely on our backs and hugging the delusive phantom of hope, until our enemies shall have bound us hand and foot?

...There is a just God who presides over the destinies of nations, and who will raise up friends to fight our battles for us. The battle, sir, is not to the strong alone; it is to the vigilant, the active, the brave."

-Patrick Henry, 1775

1950s does 1930s Green & Pink Dress

My latest sewing project was a mail order pattern that I'm sure from the graphics is from the 1950s, but it looked very 1930s to me with its asymmetrical button closure and details, so I decided to pair it with a 1930s repro print from a cute vintage style new Riley Blake Designs quilting cotton line called Basin Feedsacks. 

 

The pattern is too big for me, so I knew it would need some adjusting. I took a big pinch out of the back when I cut it out, in hopes that would take care of it, and forged ahead.

The skirt came together easily and was quickly tweaked to fit me, though it took me a minute to realize that it actually doesn't open from the buttons on the skirt - it has a side zipper just like most vintage patterns, and the faux opening is all for show. 

 

I hit a snag with the bodice. I'm not sure if this particular pattern or style just wasn't a good fit for me, or if they left out a piece of the instructions, but I had to play around with the front fit for a long time - and even now you can see it's not a perfect fit, but was the best I could come up with. 

 

I substituted sleeves from a 1930s pattern, so they would have a bit more of that decade's detail. 

 

I do like the idea of adding slanted trim like this to the neckline - it was super easy (just a folded rectangle) and could be attached to a lot of other patterns, if I wish. 

 

I maybe should have called this First Draft, because I'm pretty sure I will end up reworking the bodice. I had very little fabric leftover, so I would have to recut it from what I have here, but with the overlap it shouldn't be too hard to have enough fabric for a Second Draft. I'm thinking all I would have to do is take out the sleeves and recut the front as a regular shirt front with shoulder yokes, leaving the back and skirt intact.

Or at the very least, revamp it to make a stand-alone skirt, since I am pleased with that part of it.

 

So it's still a work in progress, instead of a finished item crossed off my list - but it's good to remember that not everything I try or envision comes perfectly to fruition the first time around! (But does that inspire me to make a muslin first? No, it does not. :-) I'm put in mind of my pink dotted dress makeover that was so much more successful as its new version.

 

And anyway, this springish floral repro fabric is too good to leave as an unsatisfactory dress that won't get worn!

1940s Aqua Floral House Dress with Lori Holt Fabric

Sometimes when fabric companies do their 1930s style fabric lines, it feels more "inspired" than authentic to me. But here's a print that's a real winner! Probably my favorite Lori Holt print ever, I really got excited over this one. It's from the Riley Blake Designs recently available Cook Book fabric line (which has several other garment-appropriate, authentic prints too), and I just love it. It looks like it stepped out of a real vintage feedsack, and has a large enough floral to work well for garments.

 

Of course I wanted to sew something with it that I also would love - something that would get lots of wear, without too many details to get lost in the print, and that wouldn't take a lot of tweaking to fit me. A favorite fabric will still get pushed to the back of the closet if it's a dress that doesn't fit well or feels too fussy for everyday wear.

I remembered a simple 1940s dress pattern I'd made twice, years ago - neither of them versions I own anymore -  and pulled it out again.

 

Because I had made it before, I had the bodice pattern pieces shortened already, so the bodice didn't take any more tweaking to make an instant good fit. Also - I love shoulder dart tucks!

 

The only other detail is the asymmetrical pleat in the skirt. This meant it takes slightly more fabric, and I had a few extra pieces to cut out, but even still it was still a super quick sew.

 

I got it finished for Memorial Day, since it's close enough to red, white, and blue to have a patriotic flair. 

 

I made two belts - one in a coordinating blue solid from Riley Blake, and one in the same aqua floral. I like the blue best, but I also enjoy versatility.

 

Because of the basic design and the wide bodice overlap, it was the perfect choice for some large buttons. I quickly settled on some big white plastic toggle buttons, probably intended for a coat, but they add a little extra character and quirkiness to the dress.

 

It's so trim and comfortable to wear and forget about. Reminds me again how much I love WWII era house dresses!

 

I was so pleased, I was inspired to break out of my usual brush-out and try something a little more creative with my hair this time.

 

I'm super delighted with the happy combination of pattern & fabric, and the way it turned out. I'm sure I'll wear it a lot...and I still had some fabric leftovers to save for a quilt, so that's a win-win!