Verity Vintage Studio

Sewing Recap for 2019

It's that time of year again...time to round up all my makes from the past year so I can see them all in one place. I like doing this so I can see repetition or continuity, spot gaps or trends, and make goals for the future.

I made quite a few house dresses, as usual.

  

1950s sprinkle dress; 1950s floral dot dress

 

I made regular dresses as long as I could, but once my pregnancy was more advanced I experimented with adjustable dresses that would hopefully work both for maternity and non-maternity, with a variety of success.

  

rayon adjustable dress; maternity pinafore dress

pink gingham late '30s adjustable dress

 

My intention was to mostly try patterns that could potentially work for maternity and after, so I took some before and after pictures of some of the dresses to discuss how it worked.

 

2nd version of this pattern, without & with baby bump.

 

lavender adjustable dress, before and after

 

I also made a number of patterns twice, and since my creativity was limited, I tried my best to change them up as much as possible.

 

1940s adjustable dress in balloon print; in nautical denim.

 

summer housecoat replacement; again as an adjustable house dress

 

Because of my pregnancy limiting my pattern choices much of the year, I only accomplished one mix-and-match outfit this year.

 

 

I used a variety of fabric kinds and colors (including TWO orange makes *gasp!*), which I try to continue each year so that I don't fall into a rut. A variety of prints in different scales plus solids, using several weights of cotton, denim, rayon, wool, flannel, taffeta...

 

1940s rayon Sparrow Dress; 1950s flannel blouse

 

Though of course blue is always going to be a recurring theme. :-)

 

floral 1930s maternity dress; 1950s wool dress

giant-floral 1950s dress

 

I used faux fur for the first time for this self-drafted jacket addition; incorporated a variety of trims throughout the year, and made a couple hats.

 

fur capped 1930s jacket with matching beret; 1940s print blouse

blue halo hat

 

I made my first infant clothes for my new baby girl, including my first matching mother-daughter set for Christmas.

 

I learned some heirloom sewing techniques, which I practiced on this blouse. More pin tucking is definitely in my future! I have some ideas of how to add it to some other patterns now as accents - it really adds a higher level of quality finish to a piece.

 

I also branched out a bit to do a few other needlework techniques like ribbon embroidery, and picked up counted cross stitch again for the first time in years - even accomplishing the finish of a UFO that's been sitting in my box for so many years I've lost track!

 

...But the big surprise of the year was when I tried English Paper Piecing, which was the last final blow to push me over the edge. I suddenly gave up struggling against the urge, and jumped straight into learning and designing patchwork and quilting!

first finished quilt

 

Looking to the Future

This coming year I don't want to stress out myself with too many plans. With 2 little children I need to have the peace of flexibility in my own mind, and not set too many goals - because so easily goals can become the main thing - what needs to happen or you feel like you're failing - instead of family and household being the main thing, with some other smaller accomplishments along the way as you have time.

 

1940s confetti print house dress; 1950s semi-formal taffeta

 

BUT I do have a few general goals this year. My biggest one is that I want to become reasonably proficient with basic patchwork and free-motion quilting, and accomplish at least a few quilts start to finish. I also intend to learn how to use a long-arm machine, since I am lucky enough to have access to one locally. It's all a huge learning curve, since quilting is quite different than sewing garments.

 

A few general ideas for my sewing plans, however, are...

Since I'm not limited to maternity or adjustable patterns this year, I really want to work through some of my long-time queue that's been sitting there patiently waiting for me to finally bring to life - some of it for years. I also have some new favorite pieces of fabric that need paired with the right pattern. I'm sure I will self impose some deadlines along the way, since that always happens, but I'd like to do mostly just-for-the-fun-of-it-because-I-feel-like-it projects, shopping my own shelves and sewing queue to get excited again about projects I first thought of long ago.

Hopefully these will include more 2 piece or mix-and-match outfits this year, since I find those so versatile.

  

embroidered 1950s Easter dress; red gingham house dress version

 

When I first started sewing, I buzzed through the process as quickly as possible, to get to the finished product. Gradually I began to appreciate the process for its own sake, and while I doubt I'll ever get to the level of some of the seamstresses I admire - historical costumers who do intricate beaded dresses, or employ ancient embroidery or lacemaking techniques I've never heard of - I am more likely now to slow down, take longer, and learn new techniques instead of brushing off an idea because "I don't know how and will never learn."

Picking up quilting taught me to "never say never". My heirloom sewing classes taught me not only to actually enjoy the process of stretching and learning, but that it can be easy to learn new techniques, so my horizons are suddenly much broader. It's a bit overwhelming, because that opens up the scope for so many more ideas (like I needed more!), yet also inspires confidence. 

  

I thoroughly enjoyed doing a few color block projects this year, especially this favorite 1940s dress. 

 

I also have more refashion projects in mind, like this sweater coat. It's much faster than starting from scratch, and there are lots of ways to take a modern garment and make it vintage appropriate, if that's your thing.

Besides, refashioning is a good use of sewing skills. And with limited space, if you aren't going to wear something, getting rid of it or making it over into something you will wear seems like the best solution. So often those refashion and mending projects get pushed off since there's always something more exciting to make. But I'm starting out the year by clearing out my mending/alteration rack, and it feels good. Maybe that will give me the impetus to keep it up!

   

 

Conclusion

My final sewing count for 2019 is...7 1930s garments, 10 1940s, and 9 1950s. Some were new patterns - some were remakes of old favorite patterns in new colors, or with new styling. Lots of duplicates this year, too...hopefully I'll avoid some of that this next year. Some makes get lots of wear, some were retired to my maternity stash, while others don't fit quite as well or were a bit disappointing so they may be purged later on.

1940s color block Thanksgiving Day dress

 

I look forward to seeing what the new year holds! I expect it will bring plenty of new skills (i.e., quilting related - learning needle turn appliqué is just around the corner!) to expand my horizons, but I'm sure the tried and true of dressmaking will have a fair showing. We will have to see!

A 1930s Christmas Dress

Merry 3rd day of Christmas!

Christmas is far from over at our house on the 27th so it's still quite season-appropriate to post about the dress I made for Christmas Day this year.

 

Last year I made a festive dress that was more dressy and elaborate, and actually wore it the Sunday before Christmas instead of the day of. This year I wanted something more comfortable, for chasing children and getting meals all day, so I opted for a house dress with a lovely 1930s reproduction print.

 

This print is not so obviously Christmassy as many holiday prints...I actually didn't realize it was until after I bought it and saw somewhere that it was once part of a Christmas line. I looked at it closer and realized, Oh, it is red and green! But that gave me hopes that if I accented the green instead of the red, I could potentially wear it for other seasons as well.

 

I needed a pattern that was suitable for the era of the fabric, and also one that had some contrast, because I was trying to squeeze out a dress for me and my baby girl from just 3 yards. Thankfully, the 1930s abounds with contrast detail. I settled on a pattern with contrast yoke and half of a sash; that plus cutting the sleeves from the infant dress out of contrast, was enough to squeeze the rest of the pattern pieces onto my length. But it was close! No room for error here.

 

I would have liked to match the medium green in the print, but was working with my stash like a good little seamstress, and didn't have anything the right color. So I pulled out my dark green cotton pique for the contrast.

 

(Incidentally, I find that dresses often look less homemade when you use something textured as a contrast, instead of another color of quilting cotton. Something like corduroy, velvet, embroidered eyelet, linen, or in this case, pique, is often a better choice that really upscales your finished garment. So there's your sewing tip of the day.)

Also incidentally, I realized this is my 3rd project in a row that features a contrast yoke! Funny how that accidentally happens...I often tend to sew in groups, it seems - whether era, color, or some other factor like yokes in this case.

 

This was a pretty basic pattern with a few cute details. I loved the little points on the yoke. I didn't feel like switching out my thread - and also had none the right color - for top stitching the dark green, so I left my light thread on and made it look purposeful by using a decorative stitch. I haven't used this stitch before, but I really like it. It looks a bit like tiny feathers and adds just a touch of trim to the bodice.

 

The sash in half a contrast is something I'd never tried before, but it was sketched in on the pattern picture, and I decided to try it. I do like how it looks. Definitely something unusual, but it actually works. I love how creative fashion was - another reason to love vintage style.

 

I tied in the green with bands on the sleeves, but used white buttons - cute vintage ones thrifted for just 50 cents at my favorite thrift store back east. I think overall it does look Christmassy, but not so much that I will mind wearing it at other times. Just what I had hoped.

 

Of course, paired with vintage holiday jewelry and my red Marilyns from Royal Vintage Shoes, dressed up with vintage bow shoe clips, it does pull out the Christmas theme. It was so bright outside I could hardly keep my eyes open, but with the busy madhouse here on Christmas, it's lucky I had time to snap pictures at all! :-)

 

I also made a matching infant dress for my baby girl. I messed up the closure on the inside, but thankfully since it was on the inside it doesn't really matter. I was really happy how it turned out overall.

 

Our first matching mother-daughter outfits!

 

I made it big enough that she should be able to wear it for a while. Green is such a good color for her!

 

Thankfully they were both easy and quick projects, because though I left myself a week before Christmas to stitch them, with all the other Christmas baking and events, a serger that stopped working, as well as a crochet deadline rapidly approaching, I began to wonder if I would have time after all. But once I could block out a few hours during children's nap times, I was able to get most of the major construction done - a weight off my mind. I did finish up just two days before Christmas, but without too much stress involved.

 

I'd had this pattern for a long time and it never got pushed to the top of my queue, but I'm happy I found a good match for it. The dress was festive, comfy, and fun to wear on a busy family Christmas Day with all its food prep, eating and drinking, games, dishwashing, baby nursing, and curling up for Shop Around the Corner. Yet I expect to get more wear out of it than just one season a year.

 

Besides, it's so nice to find a suitable use for this adorable 1930s print!

1930s Purple Wool Jacket

During the summer I thrifted a piece of gray faux fur that I really liked - I'm picky about faux fur, but this one felt quite realistic instead of like plastic fuzz, and was a low, textured pile in a tonal color - both of which I loved. It's probably quite expensive to buy by the yard, but I only paid a few dollars for a pretty large piece. I knew I would have to use it for some contrast in winter outerwear, so here is the first project that features it. 

 

The jacket was actually a 1940s pattern, but by the time I was finished with it, it looks more 1930s to me - though I will use it for both eras, I'm sure. 

I used 2 small pieces of vintage wool I'd thrifted some time ago, which used together was just the right size for making a jacket, so it was a nice stash busting project. I really like the weave and color of the fabric, but it is pretty heavy, so it makes the jacket feel and look a little bulkier than I prefer. At least with outerwear, such things don't matter as much.

 

This was my very first time to work with faux fur. It sure makes a mess when you cut it! But it wasn't actually that hard to work with, which was a pleasant surprise. I cut the yoke pieces out of the fur, and did self drafted decorative sleeve caps.

 

I'd intended to just do a band of fur across the top of the sleeve to line up with the yoke, but at some point in the process, I decided that the sleeves needed more than just sleeve caps across the top, so I added dramatic points, and really love how 1930s they look. 

 

To do the sleeves, I first cut the entire sleeve pieces out of wool, then stitched a piece of fur directly to the sleeve, right sides together. Once I flipped the fur up towards the sleeve head, I could trim it down to match the sleeve head easily. Because of the deep pile, faux fur hides a lot of seam mistakes and is easier to fudge a little when matching lines. The sleeve caps are actually 2 pieces, yet you can't really see the seam at all, even under close inspection. 

 

I recently got these gorgeous vintage coat buttons of the perfect shade of gray at a steal, but there were just 3 of them. I had nothing else that would work so well. But I also didn't want to do giant buttonholes in that raveley wool, (and have been too lazy to get around to learning bound buttonholes...) so I ended up sewing the buttons on just for decoration. The jacket actually shuts with hooks and eyes, and snaps.

 

Again, my stash dictated my closure as well, which ended up being more creative than originally intended. I planned on using big snaps like you see on coats, but didn't have any. Instead of spending more money and ordering some (and having to wait to finish the project until they arrived) I used what I did have on hand. I only had 2 large hooks and eyes, so those I put at the most stressed places - at the bust and at the waist. Between those, I used smaller snaps, with a small hook and eye in the fur to keep the neckline in place.

 

There is no way the smaller snaps would hold the jacket shut on their own, but the hooks and eyes take most of the strain, and the snaps do their job of keeping the edges in place quite nicely. 

 

I did not line it, but I did interline the sleeves with some satin, so I would not have the itchy wool next to my bare arms and could slip sleeves in more easily, since this is to be worn over dresses and not as a suit jacket. It's still quite warm, even without lining, and I like light coats for long car rides (of which there are plenty, when you live out in the back country like I do).

 

The short length makes it not exactly ideal for skirts and blouses, but it will work well to wear over dresses, which is what I had intended it for. It didn't quite turn out as I had envisioned, but I'm reasonably happy with it - and quite happy with the fur part, which is all my own addition to the original pattern. Not every project is a resounding success, and that's ok.

 

The beret I cobbled together at the last minute so I could coordinate with the jacket. Again, the faux fur hides a lot of mistakes; but I have a good idea of how to better it another time. 

 

I wanted to get pictures of it in the snow, but after our Thanksgiving snowfall we haven't seen much snow so far, so these photos will have to do. 

 

And I have to put in a good word for my new Aspen boots from Royal Vintage Shoes. I didn't think I would wear their boots, though they certainly were cute, but when they came out with a brown and white combo it was too cute for me to resist, so I pre-ordered them this fall to try. I knew from my first wearing that I would definitely not be returning them, and they would be an absolute favorite for winter.

 

They are warm, stylish yet comfortable for long periods of time on your feet, and while they are definitely more weather/snow protection than regular shoes, they are lightweight enough you could even dance in them if you so desire! Absolutely ideal for shopping trips in messy weather, or even church if it's snowy. I am definitely sold.

 

I really have transitioned to winter sewing now, after working with cottons much of the time recently. Wool and fur are about as wintry as you can get, and I have some plans for some of the other cool-weather fabrics in my stash, though I will still sprinkle in some cotton here and there. Speaking of which, I must get back to working on my Christmas dress...because Christmas is next week already! 

A New Type of Finished Sewing Project

I used to hate sewing. Once I finally learned to like it, I hated being precise. Then, I gradually found enjoyment in being (at least mostly) precise, but said for sure I would never take up quilting! shudder

Ahem. Well, you can see how that turned out...

 

I have jumped headlong into quilting and quilt designing during the past few months. There is so much to learn - it's quite different than garment sewing - and even with my practicing and class watching I have barely scratched the surface.

But I did want to share my first finished bed quilt! 

 

It all started with picking up an interest in English paper piecing and using it for appliqué on smaller projects, but who am I kidding? I knew it was only a matter of time before I would be doing full sized quilts. So I decided I wanted to make a quilt from start to finish to learn some of the basics, so I found an ePattern I liked, downloaded it, and got started. It was made with 5" squares, so I saved some time by getting some precuts, but also cut some of my own, and all the white squares. It has pieced blocks around the edge, so I would get some practice doing smaller piecing without committing to a lot of it.

 

I'd already found that choosing coordinating fabrics is harder than it looks, so I compromised by getting a few packs of a 1930s collection where all that work was already done, then filling in with other 1930s repro prints and one vintage piece. 

There are quite a few dresses represented in this quilt, so you may recognize some of the prints!

 

I took out most of the red prints, however, to go with a mainly green and pink theme. One super fun thing about quilting is that now I can play with some colors I can't wear. I had some vintage hot pink polka dot cotton that I loved, but never would make into a dress because it's not my color. It was perfect for the border and binding for this project.

 

The assembly was interesting, since you went from one corner to the opposite one. Your rows get longer and longer, than get shorter and shorter. That also made it unique to figure out layout, since the rows you laid out would not be the visual rows once the quilt was completed. But I think I got it fairly balanced.

 

I made the queen size layout, but it's easily king sized. It's enormous. It's big enough that if I want to, I can turn it the other way - it will still fit top to bottom, and hit the ground on both sides of my queen sized bed. It was quite a lot of fabric to wrangle, I can tell you. I even set up my machine on the floor at one point, so I didn't have to lift it to sew.

 

It's far from perfect. I learned a lot while making it, which was the point. One was it's worth taking time to recut a piece if you got your measurement off. Another was that it's not actually that hard to match points precisely if you have an accurate seam allowance, which is nice. Also, it's very necessary (and takes more thinking-through than you might think) to stay organized. I used the seam ripper more than once because I didn't double-check before I sewed a seam. Another lesson was...cheap sewing machines need constant checking to make sure the needle position doesn't change, or your 1/4" seams will be off - creating major issues down the road. 

(Hopefully that one will be obsolete once I can use my Rocketeer again.)

 

One corner doesn't lay quite flat, it's not quite square, and especially along the edge, a lot of points don't hit the right spot. But that's ok. It's still bright and cheery, and good enough for now. The point was not to get it perfect, but to just get some experience, ending up with something I can still use and enjoy.

 

I found some pretty ticking fabric on clearance, so that made the perfect backing. I did have to piece it on each side to make it wide enough. Again, you can tell how the quilt is not completely straight and square if you look at the back, thanks to the stripes - but it's good enough for me, and who's going to see the back anyway?

 

 

I did not want to quilt this one, but tie it instead for a quick finish. Since I was tying it, I used an extra thick batting so it would end up more like a comforter. It took quite a bit of floor space to lay it all out and start tying. I used some size 10 crochet thread and tied at each corner of each block. With my sister's help, we did enough tying in one afternoon that it would stay together, then I took it home and finished over the next few days. At least it was the right time of year to be snuggled under a pile of quilt (and baby, as the photo shows...:-)

I actually quite enjoyed putting the binding on. Hand stitching down the binding on the back went faster than expected and it makes such a neat finish, I don't think I'll bother trying to find other ways to do it. 

 

I discovered I don't have any suitable matching pillowcases or shams to go with my new quilt, so I used some mismatched vintage ones with embroidery for now. I think coordinating pillowcases or shams will need to be a future project, to finish the look.

 

Now with some lessons learned, and some experience under my belt, I can move on to growing my piecing skills, and learning free-motion quilting once my Rocketeer comes back from a sojourn at the sewing machine shop. 

I guess all of this is to say...never say never! Who would have thought I'd take up another time-consuming hobby/business on top of everything else; much less quilting, which I always hated?? But the bug has certainly bit me...I'm a hopeless case now. Also a sponge, alert to soaking up anything quilting, and slightly envious of those quilters with so much knowledge and experience. Thankfully I live in a community with lots of friendly quilters, and even have access to a long-arm machine, which I am so excited to learn how to use. 

 

We will wait and see what the future holds - meanwhile, I'm enjoying seeing this pretty spread on my bed every time I walk past the bedroom door. So much yet to learn and practice...but it's a good start. 

 

Now back to working on my Thanksgiving Day dress, which hopefully I will be able to share next week. An early Happy Thanksgiving to all my USA readers!

O give thanks unto the Lord;

for He is good:

for His mercy endures forever.

-Ps 107:1

Project Journal: Thrifted Sweater Coat Made 1930s

Something a little different this week! As the weather has turned chilly again, I've rediscovered how much I like sweater coats. They are less formal than jackets, longer and more versatile than regular sweaters, and especially nice for long car rides since they provide warmth for going in and out of the car, without the excessive heat and bulk of a long wool coat during the ride. 

I already own one and was happy to pick up two new ones recently. One was this lovely cream colored one, with quite a bit of cute detail. I especially liked the thin cotton yarn used (not a fan of acrylic if I can get cotton!) and the nubby texture, while the neutral color will go with anything!

 

I definitely saw possibilities in it, but it had some modern elements I didn't like so much - especially those huge, decorative shiny plastic buttons, and a random modern buckle on the neck.

 

I did some research, looking at 1930s swagger coats for inspiration of ways I could make this more me - more suitable for a vintage style wardrobe. After deciding on the route I wanted to take, I got started.

 

First off, those shiny plastic buttons and the buckle were removed.

 

Under each one was a small hole, probably put there by the factory to mark the button placement. I could have covered it by replacing with a vintage button, but I had a different idea. So each hole got a quick darn to close it. Thanks to the nubby texture of the knit, it camouflaged the darn pretty well.

 

Next, I tightened the back belt by folding a pinch of it and inserting through a vintage belt buckle. A common 1930s fashion element was a buckle in the back - and besides, it was a great way to tighten the belt without having to take out the side seams and cut the belt shorter. Instead of sewing it in place, I did use a safety pin to allow for versatility. This way I can swap out buckles when I want to. 

 

The sleeves got a quick hem since they had been too long when I tried it on. Just an inch turn-up made the fit much better.

 

I just love the slanted lines on the front - another perfect fit for the 1930s look I'm going for.

 

I had put some thought into the neck. Because the 1930s were big on collars and sleeves, often swagger coats had some sort of fancy element there. Since I was working with an existing sweater, I tried to think of a way to dress up the neck/shoulder area. I got inspiration from a photo, and purchased a Pashmina scarf for a few dollars online.

It was supposed to be ivory, but it is still much whiter than the sweater. Oh well, that way it will just coordinate with more colors. It's still all neutral.

 

I cut the scarf in half across the center of the width, and pleated it closely together, fastening the cut end of each half on the shoulder where it would be covered with the decorative tab already there.

 

The last step was to replace a button back on each tab - only a pretty vintage one this time!

 

While the finished sweater coat may not look completely 1930s, it's much closer than the more modern one it was originally. Therefore much more my style, and goes with my wardrobe better.

 

The scarf coming from each shoulder creates some versatility with ways to wear it, too. 

 

 

I paired it with a 1930s dress I made a long time ago that has issues, but is still a favorite, especially of my early projects. Also true vintage accessories in chocolate brown and burgundy.

 

(I hope these lovely autumn leaves last long enough for me to get a few more outfit photo shoots done! I love this time of year, yet I think we will get an early winter this year...so fall is not lasting very long, sadly.)

 

It only took a half hour to make this into a version I like - so much faster than making a new one! Just another reason to keep your eye open when thrifting for those classic styles (or vintage style elements) that give you something to work with. Think creatively, and it opens a lot of possibilities.

 

After all...you can't beat a 99 cent, half-hour swagger coat added to your fall wardrobe!

Adjustable Maternity Wardrobe: Success?

Now that I am back to normal size, I've been able to see how well my adjustable dresses made during pregnancy, work for a non-pregnant shape. The answer in a nutshell is - some better than others!

My tie front dresses I have not worn since the baby was born, since they do not open down the front for nursing access. I am confident they will look fine, once I can wear them again, because the pattern was not intended for maternity in the first place. This particular dress got a ton of wear and no longer looks so fresh!

1940s anchor dress

 

This dress, created by combining 2 different patterns, turned out to be my most flattering maternity dress during pregnancy. I really like it. I do think the general idea would work for a non-maternity pattern as well, but since I made it during pregnancy, I ended up with an empire waist, which looks quite nice with a baby belly. Wearing it without the baby belly now makes the waist band fit around my rib cage instead of my waist, which I don't like, so I will retire this one with my other maternity clothes. If I make this pattern combo again, I will make the waist hit farther down, so that it will work better for non-maternity.

Thankfully I have enough fabric to make another dress that fits me now!

1930s adjustable floral dress

 

I have not gotten pictures of my 1930s house dress without the baby bump, but I have documented another version with normal proportions, so I know how it will look and fit.

1930s house dress worn while pregnant

earlier tropical version worn while not pregnant

 

I made two versions of Butterick 6485. The rayon version was photographed while I was still small enough that you can pretty well tell how it looks now. I wore it through the whole pregnancy, and was very happy with it.

 

I made it again in cotton, and didn't like this version as well to wear while pregnant. It looked ok when I was just large enough to want an adjustable waist, but once I got to the last few months, it made me feel even bigger than normal. Any woman who has gone through the months of pregnancy knows that is not a nice feeling.

 

So I did another photo shoot to show if normal proportions would help, or if this pattern is one that really does need the limpness of rayon.

 

It looks better for sure, but I still am happier with the rayon version (both for maternity and regular), so likely will not make this again in cotton. 

 

(I had fun with a more structured hairstyle this time than my usual brush-out. It ended up looking a bit more late-'40s I thought.)

 

My blue and red adjustable dress started out too snug for how large I had become by the time I made it, as you can see in the first batch of photos I took. It would work well for previous months, but definitely is one I would grow out of during the last few months.

 

How well does it work though without the baby bump? Pretty well, I think!

 

Nice and trim with the belt, and the extra gathers in the back allow for plenty of movement and comfort without looking obviously maternity. I'm happy with how well my alterations to this pattern worked out.

 

So overall, I would say that the patterns I experimented with were successful, especially since none of them were officially "maternity". All of them I would wear again, though some of them not for the entire pregnancy.

Some I have retired for now, while others remain in my closet, and yet others will have their turn when the baby is weaned. It was a fun experiment, but I'm very happy to fit back in my normal clothes again and be able to give the dresses I made earlier this spring while I was still small, a few more outings yet before winter!

One Last Maternity Dress: Red, White, and Blue 1930s Dress

While I am not wearing this on the 4th of July, I still happen to have a red, white, and blue dress to show you this week!

I might still do an unfitted blouse or two, but this is likely my final adjustable, maternity-friendly dress. Funny how I never actually got around this time to making a dress from an official "maternity" pattern, but found lots of suitable adjustable dresses that I liked better!

 

This is the 2nd version of the pattern I used for my pink and white gingham dress, which was a trial of a non-maternity pattern with some alterations to make it maternity friendly. 

As you can see, with only 6 weeks to go, even though this is a new dress, the fit is not the greatest. It's already pretty much at the limit of its capacity, and has little bulges here and there in the bodice and back skirt since the waist is pushed up higher than it should be. This pattern with the alterations can work for a while, it seems, but during the final stretch more room is needed. Ah well, I still have it documented. :-)

 

I used some 1930s reproduction quilting cotton which I got on clearance from Hancock's several years ago. I also have the blue color way, which I like even better. It's a busy print, so some of the details may get lost. For instance, you can't really see the gore detail in the front skirt.

 

The tucks in the back, however, are still somewhat visible.

My hair was not behaving for its usual brushout today, so I tried a back roll. It worked fairly well. I'm sure towards the end of the day it will be harder to keep neat. But it is very cool! I realize why it was so popular as an updo during the 1930s and 1940s.

 

I used sleeves from a different 1930s pattern, to change up the look, and also cut a V neck, which I really like. It's very comfortable.

 

The buttons I've been hoarding for a while, and they were the perfect shade of blue to match the blue dots in the fabric. I had 9 of them, so sets of 3 seemed to be in order.

As you can see though, by now my belly is big enough that it distorts the way the bodice should lay. It's comfortable, just not quite fitting right. This dress will show much more to advantage once I have a waist again. I hope to photograph it again later on to show if my original experiment (will this look too maternity afterwards???) worked or not!

 

I was getting tired of doing tie belts on my dresses, so I opted for a totally detachable top stitched tie belt this time. I hope to wear the dress with a purchased belt once I can, but for now the adjustable belt makes a lot more sense.

 

This dress went quickly at first, then stalled as I concentrated on other things. I eventually got it done, but it probably would have fit me better if I'd finished it when I started! I recall no difficulties, other than a little trial and error as I was figuring out how to face the V shaped sleeves. 

 

This is the first trial of some new reproduction sandals I got from a seller on Instagram. I really like the way they look, with a few minor quibbles, but I noticed on these pictures that they look too large for my feet. So we shall see if I end up keeping them or passing them on.

 

Overall, it's a simple, cheery summer housedress with a few details to keep it interesting, and I look forward to wearing it more in the future as a button-up-and-go sort of outfit. Might have to wait until after Baby Two comes, though!

1930s Floral Adjustable Dress

One of the ladies I follow on Instagram posted pictures of a lovely 1940s dress she made from the prettiest floral and polka dot fabric. The fabric instantly caught my eye, and when I saw she had gotten it from Walmart, I had to get some too. It took a while since their search engine is terrible, but I finally tracked down the print and ordered enough of it for 2 dresses - an adjustable/maternity one I can wear now, and one to wear later once I'm a normal size again.

This is the adjustable version.

 

The cotton, while feeling cheaper than the high quality brands I prefer, is still remarkably nice - especially for less than $4 a yard! I love that the blue is a mid blue instead of navy, and that the flowers are pink instead of the more common color scheme of red paired with blue. It's a good way to get more pink into my wardrobe.

 

For this dress, I used a combination of 2 different patterns from the 1930s. The back and back yoke is from a pattern I made twice during my last pregnancy. 

 

The front and sleeves uses the same pattern I used for last year's Christmas dress - and I have to say it was SO much easier to make it with cotton than with that awful crepe! 

 

The back ties I added myself, making them the same width as the front inset skirt band. If I like how it looks on me after pregnancy, I may add buttons back there so it overlaps and buttons shut, which looks neater than a tie. But right now the adjustable tie is very helpful. And as you can see, there is still plenty of room to grow if I need it, yet without looking really bulky even in cotton.

 

I used the collar this time, making it in a white fabric embroidered with dots. I didn't get it perfect (scallops are not my friend), but I like how it looks.

 

The sleeves actually turned out well this time - thanks to cotton! For my Christmas dress I ended up just winging it, but done properly they really have cute detail. Maybe a bit too much puff for my preference, but otherwise I really like them. I was originally going to add white cuffs, but decided instead to tie in the white with some tiny decorative white buttons.

 

The front buttons are vintage ones that I had exactly 3 of, and the scallops match the dress quite well. It was meant to be.

 

I love how the pink flowers on the dress match the flowers on the tree! 

 

There was definitely a difference in era between the 2 patterns I combined. The back piece was at least 4 inches longer than the front skirt (probably from the mid-30s compared to the late '30s), but I could easily even it up and hem it the same length. I think the overall combination was a good match since it has the same shape of yoke front and back, so it really looks like it was supposed to go together. 

 

I definitely like the more fitted front better than the loose front versions of the original pattern I used for the back. I'm hopeful I can still wear this after the baby and it won't look maternity. But if not, I still have more fabric for another, normal version!

1930s Adjustable House Dress

My fourth time making this negligee pattern was for another maternity friendly house dress. It was not one of those perfect projects, but was a near fail that I managed to rescue - thankfully!

 

Tie front dresses are very useful for maternity, but they were also a common fashion element for just regular wear in the late '30s and early '40s, so my intention was to make a dress that would work for both. I also wanted to pair this fabric with a white yoke, and the only pattern I had that combined those elements was the negligee pattern I've made before. So out it came again.

 

All went well until the first wearing. Despite the fact that I've made this pattern dress length instead of floor length twice before, somehow I managed to cut it too short when cutting it out this time!

 

My tropical print version I wore quite a bit after my last pregnancy, but the front panels have too much fabric in them and gather too bunchily around the waist for my taste (especially in a stiffer cotton), so I decided to take a few inches out of the front panels of this one. 

Well, I didn't realize that while it does cut down on extra fabric at the waist, it also cuts down on the skirt width. So the first time I wore it, I realized there were issues. The skirt pulled and gaped badly between the buttons when I sat down, and it was definitely too short. 

But I loved this fabric too much to call it a failure! The button gaping problem was easily fixed by top stitching the opening together from the waist down, but my only option to lengthen it was to add a piece of fabric at the bottom. How to do that without making it look obviously patched together?

 

The answer was a strip of narrow white lace sandwiched between the layers, which I top stitched together. I was very relieved to find that the lace makes it look like it was intended to be there, and actually ties in the white yoke and buttons very well! Definitely a close call, but with those problems fixed I can wear it happily now. The only fit issue that remains is that the yoke won't lay flat in the front - ah, well. 

 

Because this is a fun fabric and a house dress, I decided to play around a bit more with decoration than I normally do. This was a perfect way to use up some random cute tiny vintage buttons that I otherwise probably wouldn't have a use for, only having a few of them. I really liked how it turned out, along with the interlaced tiny red rickrack.

 

The yoke took a bit of extra time as a result, but the rest of the pattern is super easy and went together very quickly. I hardly needed to look at the instructions since I've made it so often and it's simple anyway.

I used sleeves from another pattern from the era, just to change things up a bit. I like the ones that puff at the top and are dart fitted around the arm. It's a nice change from the straight sleeves the pattern calls for.

 

Can we all take a moment to cry about the fact that JoAnn discontinued their 1930s print collection?? How cute is this fabric? Though to be honest, I probably wouldn't have gotten any if it hadn't been marked down so far on clearance. I just wish I'd gotten more! I love how cheery it is.

I have plenty of room in the front, no matter how large I get, and I'm reasonably certain that when my waist comes back, I can cinch it in with the tie belt (handy for fluctuating sizes afterwards too) and the dress will fit well without looking maternity. At any rate, it makes a cheerful, comfortable house dress, and I'm sure will get a lot of wear this summer.

 

This project was a good reminder that even after years of experience, sewing projects can still throw you a curve ball once in a while. For it to be such a simple one, instead of a complex pattern, is all the more reason to keep humble. :-)

Late 1930s Pink Gingham Adjustable Dress

Yay for spring! Since our last batch of spring rains seems to finally be over, I can take pictures out-of-doors again. I am so enjoying the lovely sunshine, budding flowers, green hills, and hanging my laundry out once more!

I so enjoyed making and wearing my green late '30s dress last fall, that I wanted to make another one. Only, of course, I wouldn't fit in a regular version for very long, and the pattern lent itself to alterations for maternity very well.

 

The original pattern features a back with extra fabric gathered in to the skirt at the fitted waist. My idea was simply to not gather it, but rather cut the skirt to fit the width of the un-gathered waist of the bodice piece. This would make a wider panel all the way across the back, yet hopefully still look nice and trim when cinched in to a normal waist size. 

 

As I've mentioned before, the maternity dresses I like the best are ones that are not obviously maternity, and can be worn afterwards too. I was hoping this would turn out to be such a dress.

 

I used some pink gingham cotton twill from my stash for the trial. As you can see, it holds wrinkles pretty easily and has to be pressed before wearing. But I wanted a fabric I didn't care too much about, in case the trial failed. 

 

When cutting it out, I simply measured the bottom of the back bodice, and added that much extra to the center back seam of the skirt pieces. Otherwise, I followed the normal cutting and sewing directions except that I added waist ties (from this Butterick pattern) on each side seam, and skipped the decorative belt loops.

PLUS I could omit the side zipper, since the waist is now plenty wide enough to slip on over the head. Win!

 

I did cut the neckline differently and omit the collar, for a different look from the green dress. The collarless version is more comfortable for everyday, I think.

 

Basically the only difference between how this version and the original looks (other than the ties) is that the skirt has some extra gathers in the back, instead of being smoothly fitted gores. I like the gored version better, but this one is quite nice enough to suit me. I am large enough now at 23 weeks that my regular dresses are starting to be uncomfortable around the waist, and I can tell an instant improvement with this one's adjustable waist. Just slip it on, button it up, and tie the sash as snugly as desired. 

Crossing the ties in the back first means that the side seams stay where they belong, and keeps all the gathers in the back so they won't shift around to the sides where they would add bulk. Also I think it makes the waist look more trim.

 

I really like how the tucks on the back bodice control the extra fabric at the shoulders. These are always fun to sew.

 

There is plenty of room left in the dress at the back, so we will see if I will be able to wear it for the rest of the pregnancy. I think it's likely.

I have great hopes that it will look enough like a normal dress, and not a maternity one, to wear for non-maternity as well. The adjustable waist will certainly always be comfortable, even without a baby bump. What do you think? Does it look obviously maternity?

 

I was able to use these long-stashed vintage drop shaped buttons for the bodice. I had exactly the right amount, and they were the right color of off-white to go with the fabric. The dress was simple enough that I liked a bit more "statement" in the buttons.

 

Since this trial was a success, I've had some ideas for similar alterations for other patterns, so I may have more trials to show you in the future. Since I have to wear a slip with this dress, I have at least one more version planned, suitable for the hot weather this summer when I will be large enough to need to wear maternity clothes every day, so you will likely see this altered version again in the coming months.

Meanwhile, this is a comfortable, cheerful version for spring, and I'm very pleased with how well my idea translated to real life.