Verity Vintage Studio

Versatile: A 1930s Set in Green

I had this combo on my sewing list for a while, and a few months ago I made it happen. I realized I couldn't keep cutting into this forest green cotton pique for contrast on things like last year's Easter dress, or my most recent Christmas dresses, without eventually ruining it for the jacket & skirt plans I had.

 

I've been wanting to make this 1930s skirt again ever since I made it in white, and dark green solid is a much more practical color. Plus it goes with anything and in any season!

 

The jacket I used from another 1930s pattern, and it is my first time using an open ended zipper like this. Of course back in the day it would have been metal, but I used what I could easily source. It was actually quite easy to install. I should do more zip-front things like this!

 

The pique has a nice texture and a bit of stretch, so it fits well. 

The jacket really was quite basic and quick to make, too. I realized later that it would be a great background for some embroidery or other decoration...I will have to think about it and see if I'd wear it more that way, or if it's more versatile when left plain like this.

 

I like how it looks like a suit when worn together, though of course all pieces can be paired separately with other things in my closet.

 

The blouse is cut from a pretty piece of vintage seersucker I got from an eBay seller a while back. I had just exactly enough to squeeze out this blouse and a sash.

 

Such a pretty print!

 

The sash makes it more versatile, or I can also use it for a hair scarf if I want to coordinate in a different way.

 

I didn't look at the pattern closely enough, however, before I started cutting it out. Then I realized that it was meant to meet in the center, with an underlap, and close with lots of little fabric button loops. I was not about to mess with that many button loops every time the baby wants to nurse, so I decided to just overlap it and button it like normal.

THAT plan was underway when I realized that the V in the front wouldn't meet if it was overlapped, but be several inches off. :-(

 

Well, clearly I hadn't thought it through well enough...so I eventually decided to make it look more purposeful by adding another top stitched tuck farther up on one side, so it might look done on purpose instead of supposed-to-match-and-doesn't. Asymmetrical details are quite popular on 1930s clothing.

 

So that was all a hassle, but hopefully it didn't turn out too badly! I do love the print, the V in the back, and the sleeves, and how well it coordinates with the green pique.

 

I can wear it tucked in or out, which helps with more versatility as well. 

 

But I really do need to do another version of this blouse with more thought put into it! The pattern definitely deserves a more accurate treatment.

 

The jacket, though lightweight, is a bit too warm for summer, but it will work nicely for fall and spring transitional weather. Meanwhile the skirt and blouse can be worn for summer, now that summer will be arriving any minute in our neck of the woods. 

 

I am glad to have it finished! One more long-time project on my list crossed off.

 

Late 1930s Dark Blue Rayon Dress

This dress has been on my list for a VERY long time. For over 3 years I've had this rayon paired with this late '30s dress pattern...every fall it would still be on my sewing queue and I just never quite got that far. There were always new, more exciting projects crowding it out!

 

Then I realized that just because I didn't get it done last year for fall (again!), didn't mean I could not go ahead and make it this spring. It's actually a great transitional piece and can fit in many seasons.

 

I actually quite like wearing dark colors in the summer, since I can wear less layers under them. So I opted for the short sleeve version to make it more versatile, and went ahead and sewed it up during a big sewing spree before Easter.

 

We didn't get pictures taken right away, which ended up working out just fine...because our wildflower season was the perfect time to get pictures.

 

These blue wildflowers are my favorite. They lie in the wet hollows like pools of living water. We found a nice little hollow full of them, and had a photo session. 

 

1930s style Sound of Music, anyone? 

 

I had intended to make it with the white collar from the view 2 of the pattern, but changed my mind not long before making it, to use instead one of the vintage collars I've picked up at antique stores. Thankfully I had one that fit the V shape of the neck perfectly!

 

It was breezy when taking these pictures, so the collar and skirt don't always lay perfectly..but such is life when taking photos out of doors.

 

The pattern size was smaller than I am, so I had to size it up. It worked out well enough, though I wouldn't say it is quite a perfect fit. It's close enough for me (since I am not a perfectionist.)

 

I love all the tuck details everywhere!

 

I've done some dresses with similar construction and tuck detail, so it wasn't too difficult to put together. I think I shortened the skirt tucks a bit so they would look better on me, but otherwise followed the pattern (also adding a panel to heighten the neckline).

 

 

This rayon crepe - actually a fine black/dark blue houndstooth pattern - is limp, yet with a crisp feel, and hangs beautifully. Just like real vintage rayon. It was textured enough to not be too slippery while I was sewing, which was nice. The skirt feels more tailored but is still nice and flow - an element about pre-WWII patterns I enjoy.

 

This is the sort of classic dark dress that is easy to wear, fun to pair with various accessories, and versatile for different seasons and occasions. I can easily layer it with a cardigan for colder weather.

 

I am really pleased to finally have this off my to do list where it has languished for so long. It will be fun to style it different ways in the future.

Why I Love Thrift Stores - Dramatic Sweater Coat

The countryside where I live is greening up and filled with birdsong. But just an hour or so up in the mountains, there is still several feet of snow on the ground. It made a good backdrop for an outerwear photo shoot, so I have one last wintery post for the year.

 

Last fall I was on a thrift store run to the city a few hours away, and was just about to check out with a few things for the children when I spotted this sweater. It was dramatic and unusual - but it also reminded me very much of fashion ads from the 1930s. 

 

If it were worn with jeans, boots, and a modern shirt, you probably wouldn't notice the vintage style possibilities. But with a different outfit and accessories, it has a totally different feel. I paired it here with a late 1930s rayon dress I made.

 

The disappearing geometric lines and two-color play were both very popular in the 1930s. Just a quick look at black and white ads for 1930s coats and swagger coats show similar styles.

(It may have been called my "piano key" sweater by one person... :-) 

 

The sun on the snow made for less than perfect pictures, but hopefully you can see there are possibilities of keeping your eye out for vintage elements in modern garments. Sometimes it's something so classic that it hasn't changed much in style in all those years, like my brown wool jacket. Other times, you might be able to do a bit of alterations or add some details to take a piece from modern to vintage appropriate, like my swagger coat redo. 

Dramatic vintage gauntlets are just the thing to pair with a dramatic sweater like this.

 

Or it might be something more flamboyant and unusual, like this one. If you familiarize yourself with style lines and fashion ads from the eras you like, you'll find your eye trained to spot similar things when you are shopping. It's a great way to add to your vintage style closet without the expense and extra care of true vintage clothes.

 

 

Sewing Recap for 2019

It's that time of year again...time to round up all my makes from the past year so I can see them all in one place. I like doing this so I can see repetition or continuity, spot gaps or trends, and make goals for the future.

I made quite a few house dresses, as usual.

  

1950s sprinkle dress; 1950s floral dot dress

 

I made regular dresses as long as I could, but once my pregnancy was more advanced I experimented with adjustable dresses that would hopefully work both for maternity and non-maternity, with a variety of success.

  

rayon adjustable dress; maternity pinafore dress

pink gingham late '30s adjustable dress

 

My intention was to mostly try patterns that could potentially work for maternity and after, so I took some before and after pictures of some of the dresses to discuss how it worked.

 

2nd version of this pattern, without & with baby bump.

 

lavender adjustable dress, before and after

 

I also made a number of patterns twice, and since my creativity was limited, I tried my best to change them up as much as possible.

 

1940s adjustable dress in balloon print; in nautical denim.

 

summer housecoat replacement; again as an adjustable house dress

 

Because of my pregnancy limiting my pattern choices much of the year, I only accomplished one mix-and-match outfit this year.

 

 

I used a variety of fabric kinds and colors (including TWO orange makes *gasp!*), which I try to continue each year so that I don't fall into a rut. A variety of prints in different scales plus solids, using several weights of cotton, denim, rayon, wool, flannel, taffeta...

 

1940s rayon Sparrow Dress; 1950s flannel blouse

 

Though of course blue is always going to be a recurring theme. :-)

 

floral 1930s maternity dress; 1950s wool dress

giant-floral 1950s dress

 

I used faux fur for the first time for this self-drafted jacket addition; incorporated a variety of trims throughout the year, and made a couple hats.

 

fur capped 1930s jacket with matching beret; 1940s print blouse

blue halo hat

 

I made my first infant clothes for my new baby girl, including my first matching mother-daughter set for Christmas.

 

I learned some heirloom sewing techniques, which I practiced on this blouse. More pin tucking is definitely in my future! I have some ideas of how to add it to some other patterns now as accents - it really adds a higher level of quality finish to a piece.

 

I also branched out a bit to do a few other needlework techniques like ribbon embroidery, and picked up counted cross stitch again for the first time in years - even accomplishing the finish of a UFO that's been sitting in my box for so many years I've lost track!

 

...But the big surprise of the year was when I tried English Paper Piecing, which was the last final blow to push me over the edge. I suddenly gave up struggling against the urge, and jumped straight into learning and designing patchwork and quilting!

first finished quilt

 

Looking to the Future

This coming year I don't want to stress out myself with too many plans. With 2 little children I need to have the peace of flexibility in my own mind, and not set too many goals - because so easily goals can become the main thing - what needs to happen or you feel like you're failing - instead of family and household being the main thing, with some other smaller accomplishments along the way as you have time.

 

1940s confetti print house dress; 1950s semi-formal taffeta

 

BUT I do have a few general goals this year. My biggest one is that I want to become reasonably proficient with basic patchwork and free-motion quilting, and accomplish at least a few quilts start to finish. I also intend to learn how to use a long-arm machine, since I am lucky enough to have access to one locally. It's all a huge learning curve, since quilting is quite different than sewing garments.

 

A few general ideas for my sewing plans, however, are...

Since I'm not limited to maternity or adjustable patterns this year, I really want to work through some of my long-time queue that's been sitting there patiently waiting for me to finally bring to life - some of it for years. I also have some new favorite pieces of fabric that need paired with the right pattern. I'm sure I will self impose some deadlines along the way, since that always happens, but I'd like to do mostly just-for-the-fun-of-it-because-I-feel-like-it projects, shopping my own shelves and sewing queue to get excited again about projects I first thought of long ago.

Hopefully these will include more 2 piece or mix-and-match outfits this year, since I find those so versatile.

  

embroidered 1950s Easter dress; red gingham house dress version

 

When I first started sewing, I buzzed through the process as quickly as possible, to get to the finished product. Gradually I began to appreciate the process for its own sake, and while I doubt I'll ever get to the level of some of the seamstresses I admire - historical costumers who do intricate beaded dresses, or employ ancient embroidery or lacemaking techniques I've never heard of - I am more likely now to slow down, take longer, and learn new techniques instead of brushing off an idea because "I don't know how and will never learn."

Picking up quilting taught me to "never say never". My heirloom sewing classes taught me not only to actually enjoy the process of stretching and learning, but that it can be easy to learn new techniques, so my horizons are suddenly much broader. It's a bit overwhelming, because that opens up the scope for so many more ideas (like I needed more!), yet also inspires confidence. 

  

I thoroughly enjoyed doing a few color block projects this year, especially this favorite 1940s dress. 

 

I also have more refashion projects in mind, like this sweater coat. It's much faster than starting from scratch, and there are lots of ways to take a modern garment and make it vintage appropriate, if that's your thing.

Besides, refashioning is a good use of sewing skills. And with limited space, if you aren't going to wear something, getting rid of it or making it over into something you will wear seems like the best solution. So often those refashion and mending projects get pushed off since there's always something more exciting to make. But I'm starting out the year by clearing out my mending/alteration rack, and it feels good. Maybe that will give me the impetus to keep it up!

   

 

Conclusion

My final sewing count for 2019 is...7 1930s garments, 10 1940s, and 9 1950s. Some were new patterns - some were remakes of old favorite patterns in new colors, or with new styling. Lots of duplicates this year, too...hopefully I'll avoid some of that this next year. Some makes get lots of wear, some were retired to my maternity stash, while others don't fit quite as well or were a bit disappointing so they may be purged later on.

1940s color block Thanksgiving Day dress

 

I look forward to seeing what the new year holds! I expect it will bring plenty of new skills (i.e., quilting related - learning needle turn appliqué is just around the corner!) to expand my horizons, but I'm sure the tried and true of dressmaking will have a fair showing. We will have to see!

A 1930s Christmas Dress

Merry 3rd day of Christmas!

Christmas is far from over at our house on the 27th so it's still quite season-appropriate to post about the dress I made for Christmas Day this year.

 

Last year I made a festive dress that was more dressy and elaborate, and actually wore it the Sunday before Christmas instead of the day of. This year I wanted something more comfortable, for chasing children and getting meals all day, so I opted for a house dress with a lovely 1930s reproduction print.

 

This print is not so obviously Christmassy as many holiday prints...I actually didn't realize it was until after I bought it and saw somewhere that it was once part of a Christmas line. I looked at it closer and realized, Oh, it is red and green! But that gave me hopes that if I accented the green instead of the red, I could potentially wear it for other seasons as well.

 

I needed a pattern that was suitable for the era of the fabric, and also one that had some contrast, because I was trying to squeeze out a dress for me and my baby girl from just 3 yards. Thankfully, the 1930s abounds with contrast detail. I settled on a pattern with contrast yoke and half of a sash; that plus cutting the sleeves from the infant dress out of contrast, was enough to squeeze the rest of the pattern pieces onto my length. But it was close! No room for error here.

 

I would have liked to match the medium green in the print, but was working with my stash like a good little seamstress, and didn't have anything the right color. So I pulled out my dark green cotton pique for the contrast.

 

(Incidentally, I find that dresses often look less homemade when you use something textured as a contrast, instead of another color of quilting cotton. Something like corduroy, velvet, embroidered eyelet, linen, or in this case, pique, is often a better choice that really upscales your finished garment. So there's your sewing tip of the day.)

Also incidentally, I realized this is my 3rd project in a row that features a contrast yoke! Funny how that accidentally happens...I often tend to sew in groups, it seems - whether era, color, or some other factor like yokes in this case.

 

This was a pretty basic pattern with a few cute details. I loved the little points on the yoke. I didn't feel like switching out my thread - and also had none the right color - for top stitching the dark green, so I left my light thread on and made it look purposeful by using a decorative stitch. I haven't used this stitch before, but I really like it. It looks a bit like tiny feathers and adds just a touch of trim to the bodice.

 

The sash in half a contrast is something I'd never tried before, but it was sketched in on the pattern picture, and I decided to try it. I do like how it looks. Definitely something unusual, but it actually works. I love how creative fashion was - another reason to love vintage style.

 

I tied in the green with bands on the sleeves, but used white buttons - cute vintage ones thrifted for just 50 cents at my favorite thrift store back east. I think overall it does look Christmassy, but not so much that I will mind wearing it at other times. Just what I had hoped.

 

Of course, paired with vintage holiday jewelry and my red Marilyns from Royal Vintage Shoes, dressed up with vintage bow shoe clips, it does pull out the Christmas theme. It was so bright outside I could hardly keep my eyes open, but with the busy madhouse here on Christmas, it's lucky I had time to snap pictures at all! :-)

 

I also made a matching infant dress for my baby girl. I messed up the closure on the inside, but thankfully since it was on the inside it doesn't really matter. I was really happy how it turned out overall.

 

Our first matching mother-daughter outfits!

 

I made it big enough that she should be able to wear it for a while. Green is such a good color for her!

 

Thankfully they were both easy and quick projects, because though I left myself a week before Christmas to stitch them, with all the other Christmas baking and events, a serger that stopped working, as well as a crochet deadline rapidly approaching, I began to wonder if I would have time after all. But once I could block out a few hours during children's nap times, I was able to get most of the major construction done - a weight off my mind. I did finish up just two days before Christmas, but without too much stress involved.

 

I'd had this pattern for a long time and it never got pushed to the top of my queue, but I'm happy I found a good match for it. The dress was festive, comfy, and fun to wear on a busy family Christmas Day with all its food prep, eating and drinking, games, dishwashing, baby nursing, and curling up for Shop Around the Corner. Yet I expect to get more wear out of it than just one season a year.

 

Besides, it's so nice to find a suitable use for this adorable 1930s print!

1930s Purple Wool Jacket

During the summer I thrifted a piece of gray faux fur that I really liked - I'm picky about faux fur, but this one felt quite realistic instead of like plastic fuzz, and was a low, textured pile in a tonal color - both of which I loved. It's probably quite expensive to buy by the yard, but I only paid a few dollars for a pretty large piece. I knew I would have to use it for some contrast in winter outerwear, so here is the first project that features it. 

 

The jacket was actually a 1940s pattern, but by the time I was finished with it, it looks more 1930s to me - though I will use it for both eras, I'm sure. 

I used 2 small pieces of vintage wool I'd thrifted some time ago, which used together was just the right size for making a jacket, so it was a nice stash busting project. I really like the weave and color of the fabric, but it is pretty heavy, so it makes the jacket feel and look a little bulkier than I prefer. At least with outerwear, such things don't matter as much.

 

This was my very first time to work with faux fur. It sure makes a mess when you cut it! But it wasn't actually that hard to work with, which was a pleasant surprise. I cut the yoke pieces out of the fur, and did self drafted decorative sleeve caps.

 

I'd intended to just do a band of fur across the top of the sleeve to line up with the yoke, but at some point in the process, I decided that the sleeves needed more than just sleeve caps across the top, so I added dramatic points, and really love how 1930s they look. 

 

To do the sleeves, I first cut the entire sleeve pieces out of wool, then stitched a piece of fur directly to the sleeve, right sides together. Once I flipped the fur up towards the sleeve head, I could trim it down to match the sleeve head easily. Because of the deep pile, faux fur hides a lot of seam mistakes and is easier to fudge a little when matching lines. The sleeve caps are actually 2 pieces, yet you can't really see the seam at all, even under close inspection. 

 

I recently got these gorgeous vintage coat buttons of the perfect shade of gray at a steal, but there were just 3 of them. I had nothing else that would work so well. But I also didn't want to do giant buttonholes in that raveley wool, (and have been too lazy to get around to learning bound buttonholes...) so I ended up sewing the buttons on just for decoration. The jacket actually shuts with hooks and eyes, and snaps.

 

Again, my stash dictated my closure as well, which ended up being more creative than originally intended. I planned on using big snaps like you see on coats, but didn't have any. Instead of spending more money and ordering some (and having to wait to finish the project until they arrived) I used what I did have on hand. I only had 2 large hooks and eyes, so those I put at the most stressed places - at the bust and at the waist. Between those, I used smaller snaps, with a small hook and eye in the fur to keep the neckline in place.

 

There is no way the smaller snaps would hold the jacket shut on their own, but the hooks and eyes take most of the strain, and the snaps do their job of keeping the edges in place quite nicely. 

 

I did not line it, but I did interline the sleeves with some satin, so I would not have the itchy wool next to my bare arms and could slip sleeves in more easily, since this is to be worn over dresses and not as a suit jacket. It's still quite warm, even without lining, and I like light coats for long car rides (of which there are plenty, when you live out in the back country like I do).

 

The short length makes it not exactly ideal for skirts and blouses, but it will work well to wear over dresses, which is what I had intended it for. It didn't quite turn out as I had envisioned, but I'm reasonably happy with it - and quite happy with the fur part, which is all my own addition to the original pattern. Not every project is a resounding success, and that's ok.

 

The beret I cobbled together at the last minute so I could coordinate with the jacket. Again, the faux fur hides a lot of mistakes; but I have a good idea of how to better it another time. 

 

I wanted to get pictures of it in the snow, but after our Thanksgiving snowfall we haven't seen much snow so far, so these photos will have to do. 

 

And I have to put in a good word for my new Aspen boots from Royal Vintage Shoes. I didn't think I would wear their boots, though they certainly were cute, but when they came out with a brown and white combo it was too cute for me to resist, so I pre-ordered them this fall to try. I knew from my first wearing that I would definitely not be returning them, and they would be an absolute favorite for winter.

 

They are warm, stylish yet comfortable for long periods of time on your feet, and while they are definitely more weather/snow protection than regular shoes, they are lightweight enough you could even dance in them if you so desire! Absolutely ideal for shopping trips in messy weather, or even church if it's snowy. I am definitely sold.

 

I really have transitioned to winter sewing now, after working with cottons much of the time recently. Wool and fur are about as wintry as you can get, and I have some plans for some of the other cool-weather fabrics in my stash, though I will still sprinkle in some cotton here and there. Speaking of which, I must get back to working on my Christmas dress...because Christmas is next week already! 

A New Type of Finished Sewing Project

I used to hate sewing. Once I finally learned to like it, I hated being precise. Then, I gradually found enjoyment in being (at least mostly) precise, but said for sure I would never take up quilting! shudder

Ahem. Well, you can see how that turned out...

 

I have jumped headlong into quilting and quilt designing during the past few months. There is so much to learn - it's quite different than garment sewing - and even with my practicing and class watching I have barely scratched the surface.

But I did want to share my first finished bed quilt! 

 

It all started with picking up an interest in English paper piecing and using it for appliqué on smaller projects, but who am I kidding? I knew it was only a matter of time before I would be doing full sized quilts. So I decided I wanted to make a quilt from start to finish to learn some of the basics, so I found an ePattern I liked, downloaded it, and got started. It was made with 5" squares, so I saved some time by getting some precuts, but also cut some of my own, and all the white squares. It has pieced blocks around the edge, so I would get some practice doing smaller piecing without committing to a lot of it.

 

I'd already found that choosing coordinating fabrics is harder than it looks, so I compromised by getting a few packs of a 1930s collection where all that work was already done, then filling in with other 1930s repro prints and one vintage piece. 

There are quite a few dresses represented in this quilt, so you may recognize some of the prints!

 

I took out most of the red prints, however, to go with a mainly green and pink theme. One super fun thing about quilting is that now I can play with some colors I can't wear. I had some vintage hot pink polka dot cotton that I loved, but never would make into a dress because it's not my color. It was perfect for the border and binding for this project.

 

The assembly was interesting, since you went from one corner to the opposite one. Your rows get longer and longer, than get shorter and shorter. That also made it unique to figure out layout, since the rows you laid out would not be the visual rows once the quilt was completed. But I think I got it fairly balanced.

 

I made the queen size layout, but it's easily king sized. It's enormous. It's big enough that if I want to, I can turn it the other way - it will still fit top to bottom, and hit the ground on both sides of my queen sized bed. It was quite a lot of fabric to wrangle, I can tell you. I even set up my machine on the floor at one point, so I didn't have to lift it to sew.

 

It's far from perfect. I learned a lot while making it, which was the point. One was it's worth taking time to recut a piece if you got your measurement off. Another was that it's not actually that hard to match points precisely if you have an accurate seam allowance, which is nice. Also, it's very necessary (and takes more thinking-through than you might think) to stay organized. I used the seam ripper more than once because I didn't double-check before I sewed a seam. Another lesson was...cheap sewing machines need constant checking to make sure the needle position doesn't change, or your 1/4" seams will be off - creating major issues down the road. 

(Hopefully that one will be obsolete once I can use my Rocketeer again.)

 

One corner doesn't lay quite flat, it's not quite square, and especially along the edge, a lot of points don't hit the right spot. But that's ok. It's still bright and cheery, and good enough for now. The point was not to get it perfect, but to just get some experience, ending up with something I can still use and enjoy.

 

I found some pretty ticking fabric on clearance, so that made the perfect backing. I did have to piece it on each side to make it wide enough. Again, you can tell how the quilt is not completely straight and square if you look at the back, thanks to the stripes - but it's good enough for me, and who's going to see the back anyway?

 

 

I did not want to quilt this one, but tie it instead for a quick finish. Since I was tying it, I used an extra thick batting so it would end up more like a comforter. It took quite a bit of floor space to lay it all out and start tying. I used some size 10 crochet thread and tied at each corner of each block. With my sister's help, we did enough tying in one afternoon that it would stay together, then I took it home and finished over the next few days. At least it was the right time of year to be snuggled under a pile of quilt (and baby, as the photo shows...:-)

I actually quite enjoyed putting the binding on. Hand stitching down the binding on the back went faster than expected and it makes such a neat finish, I don't think I'll bother trying to find other ways to do it. 

 

I discovered I don't have any suitable matching pillowcases or shams to go with my new quilt, so I used some mismatched vintage ones with embroidery for now. I think coordinating pillowcases or shams will need to be a future project, to finish the look.

 

Now with some lessons learned, and some experience under my belt, I can move on to growing my piecing skills, and learning free-motion quilting once my Rocketeer comes back from a sojourn at the sewing machine shop. 

I guess all of this is to say...never say never! Who would have thought I'd take up another time-consuming hobby/business on top of everything else; much less quilting, which I always hated?? But the bug has certainly bit me...I'm a hopeless case now. Also a sponge, alert to soaking up anything quilting, and slightly envious of those quilters with so much knowledge and experience. Thankfully I live in a community with lots of friendly quilters, and even have access to a long-arm machine, which I am so excited to learn how to use. 

 

We will wait and see what the future holds - meanwhile, I'm enjoying seeing this pretty spread on my bed every time I walk past the bedroom door. So much yet to learn and practice...but it's a good start. 

 

Now back to working on my Thanksgiving Day dress, which hopefully I will be able to share next week. An early Happy Thanksgiving to all my USA readers!

O give thanks unto the Lord;

for He is good:

for His mercy endures forever.

-Ps 107:1

Project Journal: Thrifted Sweater Coat Made 1930s

Something a little different this week! As the weather has turned chilly again, I've rediscovered how much I like sweater coats. They are less formal than jackets, longer and more versatile than regular sweaters, and especially nice for long car rides since they provide warmth for going in and out of the car, without the excessive heat and bulk of a long wool coat during the ride. 

I already own one and was happy to pick up two new ones recently. One was this lovely cream colored one, with quite a bit of cute detail. I especially liked the thin cotton yarn used (not a fan of acrylic if I can get cotton!) and the nubby texture, while the neutral color will go with anything!

 

I definitely saw possibilities in it, but it had some modern elements I didn't like so much - especially those huge, decorative shiny plastic buttons, and a random modern buckle on the neck.

 

I did some research, looking at 1930s swagger coats for inspiration of ways I could make this more me - more suitable for a vintage style wardrobe. After deciding on the route I wanted to take, I got started.

 

First off, those shiny plastic buttons and the buckle were removed.

 

Under each one was a small hole, probably put there by the factory to mark the button placement. I could have covered it by replacing with a vintage button, but I had a different idea. So each hole got a quick darn to close it. Thanks to the nubby texture of the knit, it camouflaged the darn pretty well.

 

Next, I tightened the back belt by folding a pinch of it and inserting through a vintage belt buckle. A common 1930s fashion element was a buckle in the back - and besides, it was a great way to tighten the belt without having to take out the side seams and cut the belt shorter. Instead of sewing it in place, I did use a safety pin to allow for versatility. This way I can swap out buckles when I want to. 

 

The sleeves got a quick hem since they had been too long when I tried it on. Just an inch turn-up made the fit much better.

 

I just love the slanted lines on the front - another perfect fit for the 1930s look I'm going for.

 

I had put some thought into the neck. Because the 1930s were big on collars and sleeves, often swagger coats had some sort of fancy element there. Since I was working with an existing sweater, I tried to think of a way to dress up the neck/shoulder area. I got inspiration from a photo, and purchased a Pashmina scarf for a few dollars online.

It was supposed to be ivory, but it is still much whiter than the sweater. Oh well, that way it will just coordinate with more colors. It's still all neutral.

 

I cut the scarf in half across the center of the width, and pleated it closely together, fastening the cut end of each half on the shoulder where it would be covered with the decorative tab already there.

 

The last step was to replace a button back on each tab - only a pretty vintage one this time!

 

While the finished sweater coat may not look completely 1930s, it's much closer than the more modern one it was originally. Therefore much more my style, and goes with my wardrobe better.

 

The scarf coming from each shoulder creates some versatility with ways to wear it, too. 

 

 

I paired it with a 1930s dress I made a long time ago that has issues, but is still a favorite, especially of my early projects. Also true vintage accessories in chocolate brown and burgundy.

 

(I hope these lovely autumn leaves last long enough for me to get a few more outfit photo shoots done! I love this time of year, yet I think we will get an early winter this year...so fall is not lasting very long, sadly.)

 

It only took a half hour to make this into a version I like - so much faster than making a new one! Just another reason to keep your eye open when thrifting for those classic styles (or vintage style elements) that give you something to work with. Think creatively, and it opens a lot of possibilities.

 

After all...you can't beat a 99 cent, half-hour swagger coat added to your fall wardrobe!

Adjustable Maternity Wardrobe: Success?

Now that I am back to normal size, I've been able to see how well my adjustable dresses made during pregnancy, work for a non-pregnant shape. The answer in a nutshell is - some better than others!

My tie front dresses I have not worn since the baby was born, since they do not open down the front for nursing access. I am confident they will look fine, once I can wear them again, because the pattern was not intended for maternity in the first place. This particular dress got a ton of wear and no longer looks so fresh!

1940s anchor dress

 

This dress, created by combining 2 different patterns, turned out to be my most flattering maternity dress during pregnancy. I really like it. I do think the general idea would work for a non-maternity pattern as well, but since I made it during pregnancy, I ended up with an empire waist, which looks quite nice with a baby belly. Wearing it without the baby belly now makes the waist band fit around my rib cage instead of my waist, which I don't like, so I will retire this one with my other maternity clothes. If I make this pattern combo again, I will make the waist hit farther down, so that it will work better for non-maternity.

Thankfully I have enough fabric to make another dress that fits me now!

1930s adjustable floral dress

 

I have not gotten pictures of my 1930s house dress without the baby bump, but I have documented another version with normal proportions, so I know how it will look and fit.

1930s house dress worn while pregnant

earlier tropical version worn while not pregnant

 

I made two versions of Butterick 6485. The rayon version was photographed while I was still small enough that you can pretty well tell how it looks now. I wore it through the whole pregnancy, and was very happy with it.

 

I made it again in cotton, and didn't like this version as well to wear while pregnant. It looked ok when I was just large enough to want an adjustable waist, but once I got to the last few months, it made me feel even bigger than normal. Any woman who has gone through the months of pregnancy knows that is not a nice feeling.

 

So I did another photo shoot to show if normal proportions would help, or if this pattern is one that really does need the limpness of rayon.

 

It looks better for sure, but I still am happier with the rayon version (both for maternity and regular), so likely will not make this again in cotton. 

 

(I had fun with a more structured hairstyle this time than my usual brush-out. It ended up looking a bit more late-'40s I thought.)

 

My blue and red adjustable dress started out too snug for how large I had become by the time I made it, as you can see in the first batch of photos I took. It would work well for previous months, but definitely is one I would grow out of during the last few months.

 

How well does it work though without the baby bump? Pretty well, I think!

 

Nice and trim with the belt, and the extra gathers in the back allow for plenty of movement and comfort without looking obviously maternity. I'm happy with how well my alterations to this pattern worked out.

 

So overall, I would say that the patterns I experimented with were successful, especially since none of them were officially "maternity". All of them I would wear again, though some of them not for the entire pregnancy.

Some I have retired for now, while others remain in my closet, and yet others will have their turn when the baby is weaned. It was a fun experiment, but I'm very happy to fit back in my normal clothes again and be able to give the dresses I made earlier this spring while I was still small, a few more outings yet before winter!

One Last Maternity Dress: Red, White, and Blue 1930s Dress

While I am not wearing this on the 4th of July, I still happen to have a red, white, and blue dress to show you this week!

I might still do an unfitted blouse or two, but this is likely my final adjustable, maternity-friendly dress. Funny how I never actually got around this time to making a dress from an official "maternity" pattern, but found lots of suitable adjustable dresses that I liked better!

 

This is the 2nd version of the pattern I used for my pink and white gingham dress, which was a trial of a non-maternity pattern with some alterations to make it maternity friendly. 

As you can see, with only 6 weeks to go, even though this is a new dress, the fit is not the greatest. It's already pretty much at the limit of its capacity, and has little bulges here and there in the bodice and back skirt since the waist is pushed up higher than it should be. This pattern with the alterations can work for a while, it seems, but during the final stretch more room is needed. Ah well, I still have it documented. :-)

 

I used some 1930s reproduction quilting cotton which I got on clearance from Hancock's several years ago. I also have the blue color way, which I like even better. It's a busy print, so some of the details may get lost. For instance, you can't really see the gore detail in the front skirt.

 

The tucks in the back, however, are still somewhat visible.

My hair was not behaving for its usual brushout today, so I tried a back roll. It worked fairly well. I'm sure towards the end of the day it will be harder to keep neat. But it is very cool! I realize why it was so popular as an updo during the 1930s and 1940s.

 

I used sleeves from a different 1930s pattern, to change up the look, and also cut a V neck, which I really like. It's very comfortable.

 

The buttons I've been hoarding for a while, and they were the perfect shade of blue to match the blue dots in the fabric. I had 9 of them, so sets of 3 seemed to be in order.

As you can see though, by now my belly is big enough that it distorts the way the bodice should lay. It's comfortable, just not quite fitting right. This dress will show much more to advantage once I have a waist again. I hope to photograph it again later on to show if my original experiment (will this look too maternity afterwards???) worked or not!

 

I was getting tired of doing tie belts on my dresses, so I opted for a totally detachable top stitched tie belt this time. I hope to wear the dress with a purchased belt once I can, but for now the adjustable belt makes a lot more sense.

 

This dress went quickly at first, then stalled as I concentrated on other things. I eventually got it done, but it probably would have fit me better if I'd finished it when I started! I recall no difficulties, other than a little trial and error as I was figuring out how to face the V shaped sleeves. 

 

This is the first trial of some new reproduction sandals I got from a seller on Instagram. I really like the way they look, with a few minor quibbles, but I noticed on these pictures that they look too large for my feet. So we shall see if I end up keeping them or passing them on.

 

Overall, it's a simple, cheery summer housedress with a few details to keep it interesting, and I look forward to wearing it more in the future as a button-up-and-go sort of outfit. Might have to wait until after Baby Two comes, though!