Verity Vintage Studio

1950s does 1930s Green & Pink Dress

My latest sewing project was a mail order pattern that I'm sure from the graphics is from the 1950s, but it looked very 1930s to me with its asymmetrical button closure and details, so I decided to pair it with a 1930s repro print from a cute vintage style new Riley Blake Designs quilting cotton line called Basin Feedsacks. 

 

The pattern is too big for me, so I knew it would need some adjusting. I took a big pinch out of the back when I cut it out, in hopes that would take care of it, and forged ahead.

The skirt came together easily and was quickly tweaked to fit me, though it took me a minute to realize that it actually doesn't open from the buttons on the skirt - it has a side zipper just like most vintage patterns, and the faux opening is all for show. 

 

I hit a snag with the bodice. I'm not sure if this particular pattern or style just wasn't a good fit for me, or if they left out a piece of the instructions, but I had to play around with the front fit for a long time - and even now you can see it's not a perfect fit, but was the best I could come up with. 

 

I substituted sleeves from a 1930s pattern, so they would have a bit more of that decade's detail. 

 

I do like the idea of adding slanted trim like this to the neckline - it was super easy (just a folded rectangle) and could be attached to a lot of other patterns, if I wish. 

 

I maybe should have called this First Draft, because I'm pretty sure I will end up reworking the bodice. I had very little fabric leftover, so I would have to recut it from what I have here, but with the overlap it shouldn't be too hard to have enough fabric for a Second Draft. I'm thinking all I would have to do is take out the sleeves and recut the front as a regular shirt front with shoulder yokes, leaving the back and skirt intact.

Or at the very least, revamp it to make a stand-alone skirt, since I am pleased with that part of it.

 

So it's still a work in progress, instead of a finished item crossed off my list - but it's good to remember that not everything I try or envision comes perfectly to fruition the first time around! (But does that inspire me to make a muslin first? No, it does not. :-) I'm put in mind of my pink dotted dress makeover that was so much more successful as its new version.

 

And anyway, this springish floral repro fabric is too good to leave as an unsatisfactory dress that won't get worn!

1930s Dress & Jacket Set

I have long admired this photos, come across on Pinterest, long ago sold on Etsy. I decided to give a try at recreating it, using. 2 shades of a new basic by Riley Blake Designs called Dapple Dot.

 

I'm always a sucker for polka dots, and this has a fun scattered dot in several sizes. Of course it was meant for quilting, but it also works well for garments.

 

I did a mishmash of 3 different patterns for this outfit, not trying an exact recreation, but rather just inspired by the overall era and look.

 

The 1930s pattern I used for the bodice had extremely scanty instructions, even for a 1930s pattern. I had to mostly figure it out on my own. As usual with early or mid-'30s styles, I have trouble with the fit, but I was super pleased with the neckline. 

 

The neck tie is built in to the front piece, and the sleeves are raglan set, I love all the interesting detail, and especially the neckline, since usually I don't wear keyhole necklines as they are too low. 

 

I added piping contrast trim on the jacket, and was pleased with how that turned out.

 

Overall I like the outfit, but it has enough issues that I probably will try again in the future at some point. But it reminded me of how much I like dress/jacket combos - two totally separate looks, and they are so versatile, especially for these transitional seasons of the year. 

2021 Vintage Sewing Recap

Time for a quick look back at my past year of sewing vintage fashion! I always like to see all my makes for a year in one place. This year held a few months of no outfit sewing at all, and other months that were quite prolific. I started collaborating with Riley Blake Designs early in the year, and later on with Poppie Cotton, so all but one of these were sewn with new fabric rather than out of my stash.

My first make of the year, which was also my first blog post featuring Riley Blake Designs fabric.

 

I didn't get a lot of new patterns this year, but this was one of them, and it promptly got made up instead of sitting for years in my stash.

 

But a lot of my projects this year used patterns that I have had for YEARS, and I am so excited they finally saw the light of day!

   

1950s two color dress; 1930s Easter dress

 

I had a few repeats this year... Here's another pattern that I have owned for a very long time, and when I made the first one I liked it so much I immediately made a second one! I can't imagine why it languished in the drawer for so long.

   

1930s floral dress; black geometric version

 

I made a lot of baby clothes this year too! It was a bit of a learning curve, so some were more successful than others, but I learned to like making the smaller dresses.

     

1950s baby dress, sailor dress

 

1930s smock dress

 

I couldn't believe the comparison of how much my baby girl grew in one year!

   

1930s baby dress, 1950s princess dress

1950s goose dress

 

This was the only thing I made all year that did not use quilting cotton! It was also my only "modern" pattern - actually a reprint of a 1930s pattern. It was one of my more difficult projects this year, and the rayon challis I used was quite lovely.

1930s rayon blouse

 

Part of the reason I didn't sew with other fabric types was that during the fall, when I usually break out the wool and suiting, I was big pregnant and only made two maternity-friendly projects from July-December.

 

1940s-does-1930s adjustable dress; 1950s adjustable pleated dress

 

I also used what probably is the oldest pattern in my collection for this baby dress. She has already outgrown it, but it's one of my favorite baby makes this year. 

 

Another one of my long-owned patterns that was a remake from a very early version in my sewing career, was this 1930s blouse pattern.

 

This 1950s apron pattern was another double make this summer. I love the scallops!

   

1950s pink apron; green version

 

As always there is plenty of blue represented! Though overall I am pleased with the color variety.

 

1950s slender sailboat dress; 1930s princess dress

 

While I may not have had much variety with fabric fiber this year, I did have a fair representation of different silhouettes. 

aqua 1950s slender dress

 

I also did some fun experimenting with dress details, which is a great way to jazz up quilting cotton. From appliqué to decorative top stitching and different kinds of trims, I like adding the special touches.

 

 

 

Of course this is only my garment sewing for the year. I also did a lot of craft sewing, including tutorials on this blog not shown in this post, and a lot of quilt designs. My sewing machine got quite a workout!

1950s pastel blouse

 

My count for 2021 is:

    8 1930s adult garments

    1 1940s    

    7 1950s

and 7 baby dresses

 

I have a lot of ideas and a long to-do list for 2022, but I also know that flexibility is key since I now have three small children and a very busy design schedule. A lot of my personal sewing I have to fit in around deadlines - but I have some exciting projects I want to get to, and it's amazing how that motivational that can be!

Hope you all are having a lovely January.

~Kristen 

 

 

 

 

Brown Floral 1930s Style Adjustable Dress

Finally catching up with the last personal sewing project I made, way back in the summer when the world was still smoky. 

 

And...it was the first trial of a new adjustable dress pattern. It needed to be adjustable because we are expecting Baby 3 here in a few months!

 

Actually, this was a 1940s nightgown pattern. I studied it for a while and decided if I made it dress length, in a cotton fabric, it wouldn't look too nightgown-y. Hopefully that was successful!

 

I did heighten the V neckline a bit, and intended to do some decorative trim around the V. But after looking at it on the mannequin I decided it needed a collar. Being short on time, I hunted through my vintage linens stash. Didn't find a V collar that would work, but I went a bit more creative than my normal rut and used a delicate vintage hankie instead. 

 

I like how it looks, plus it was so easy. No collar to cut and interface and press, all the pretty hand work already done. Plus it helps the dress look more like a dress and not a nightgown. 

 

This was my first time making a neck with a V in the back too, and it took me a bit to get used to having my hair against my back!

 

The front is shaped by closely spaced darts. The loose back adjusts with ties (bonus for no closures needed!) Here you can see on the mannequin something of how it would look on a normal-sized waist. 

 

Even though it's a 1940s pattern, the collar and print really gave it a 1930s feel, so that's how I styled it - including some new summer shoes from BAIT footwear.

 

This is the first maternity-suitable sewing I've done so far this pregnancy, once I outgrew regular patterns. It was a fun quick and easy project, and used some long-stashed quilting cotton. Also, being brown, it's a nice color variety in my wardrobe. 

 

I haven't done any personal sewing since, being busy with a lot of other projects, but I'm starting to feel the itch again. I may have to try one or two more adjustable dress patterns before I don't need them anymore.

1930s Geometric Dress

Finally catching up on the last of my backlog of blog projects! When I made my Liberty floral dress a while ago, I liked it so much and was intrigued by the design possibilities if I did not make it all in one fabric, so before I even put the pattern away again, I cut out a second dress. This is it. 

 

Thankfully in the world of modern quilting cotton, while some prints work well for vintage sewing and some not so much, there are always geometric prints to be counted on. They are classic and universal throughout the decades of fashion. Out of one of Riley Blake Designs mostly modern new lines this spring, Tea with Bea, I picked out a geometric that would work perfect for Art Deco sewing.

 

It works so well with this quite classic 1930s dress pattern, and I love the different look changing up a few things gave to the dress compared to the all-over floral version shown earlier. 

 

 

I made it exactly like the other, since I was so pleased with that one's fit - but this time I made the V insert and the collar in a contrast.

 

I picked out the diamond motif in a appliqué on each collar corner, just for fun, using the EPP technique I use for appliqués on quilts.

 

The only other changes were to add an extra row of buttons on the front, and to make the sleeves differently just for variety.

 

I wanted a V sleeve, so I was going to use the same sleeves from my Easter dress pattern. But when I started sewing the tucks, I realized the geometric pattern would not work well for that. The lines went all wonky and drove my eyes crazy. So I cheated and simply bound the edge with 2 small faceted black buttons to create the V. 

Not surprisingly, I ended up liking plan B even better than the original idea!

 

Because of how very 1930s the dress looked, I paired it with some of my more flamboyant and obviously Art Deco accessories - my favorite exaggerated gauntlets, and a new to me wool tilt hat that I added a touch of color to by pinning a vintage corsage to the side.

 

It's interesting to me how a simple change in fabric style, color placement, and accessories can make this version much more formal than the first floral one.

 

Also I wore a new pair of shoes which I had recently gotten on clearance, Romona from BAIT footwear in black. A lot of their styles are not quite vintage-suitable to a purist like me, but this one works well and was comfortable to wear all day on their first outing. I already owned them in blue, and knew I needed to size up a half size for these.

 

I actually made this dress back in June, and got to photograph it at a lovely park when we did a family outing for Father's Day. I wore another hat with it part of the day, so here's a slightly different look in the lovely rose garden at the park.

 

I don't often make the same pattern twice in a row, but since this was the second time everything went quite quickly since I knew what I was doing. And I have to say it's my favorite make so far this year.

1930s Liberty Floral Dress

It's project tour time for the Carnaby Collection fabric line!

 

This 1930s dress was made and photographed during the evening light in late May, which is why the pictures are so green. It definitely is not this green here by now, especially since it's a drought year. 

 

I honestly don't know how many years this poor tattered 1930s pattern has languished in my collection. When I had the opportunity to sew with some Liberty of London prints from their new Carnaby line (distributed by Riley Blake Designs), one floral jumped out at me. I just love the retro style, and of course it's my favorite color combo. But the fabric was so busy I needed a simple 1930s pattern to pair it with, so finally this pattern had its chance to shine. 

 

And I can't believe I waited so long to make it. It actually fits me, unlike so many 1930s patterns which definitely need a lot of tweaking before they come close to fitting, since the fashionable silhouette back then was quite different than my natural shape. And it was simple to make, with just enough unique interest to make it special.

 

Plus of course, the double line of slanted buttons made it another variety to my button-front dress patterns. 

 

As you can see, the pattern includes a lot of options. When I tried on my version, I realized that it would be too tight for me over the bust if I buttoned it straight on like the illustrations show - but how easy it was to get a perfect fit by angling the bodice out into a V over the insert! Plus that gave the front even more style interest.

 

Pyramid buttons added a bit more of an Art Deco touch (though they are a pain to button and unbutton). 

 

I assembled the collar a bit differently than the pattern called for, to omit the need for a facing, and it turned out perfectly for a wonder.

 

Otherwise it was a fast and easy make, so enjoyable that I promptly made it again in another fabric (show you soon!) before I put the pattern away again. I think it will be my go-to 1930s dress pattern.

 

I actually made this dress ahead of schedule in time to wear for Memorial Day, which was perfect since it is red, white, and blue. The touches of pink are genius. Even though this fabric collection is inspired but the retro mod era of the '60s and '70s, I think this print (along with a few others) crossed over to also do a perfect 1930s style. And sewing with this cotton was a dream - definitely a great first time experience with Liberty of London fabric. 

 

I'm getting Sound of Music vibes from this photo!

 

This one and its sister dress still to be revealed are my favorite sewing projects this year so far. Yet another favorite in the closet!

Modeled photos by Elsie's Adventuring

1930s Easy Summer Dress

Time to catch up with another past project!

 

This was my favorite print from the Blue Stitch collection by Riley Blake Designs, so of course I had to make a dress. Quilting cotton is so perfect for summer clothes, and a confetti-like geometric dot print in my favorite color is ideal for vintage sewing. It could have worked for various eras and styles, but I settled on a new to me 1930s pattern for a princess style dress. 

 

It was one of those that is only 3 pieces plus the facing, so while it was challenging to fit on my yardage, it was fast to cut out and easy to put together. It does have some fun details though - trust the 1930s for that! The princess seam has a yoke in the front, cap sleeves cut all in one with the main pieces, and the shaping is formed by gathers and long darts - one in the back and 3 in the front. 

 

This makes it very easy to adjust for size or waist length, as I can just deepen the darts or make them more shallow. 

 

It was supposed to have a side zipper, as the buttons go just to the waist, but I made it loose enough that I could slip it over my head and just belt the extra in. Another time I will cut the button overlap a little longer so it reaches to the hips, and make it a better fit at the waist. 

 

I wanted an easy to wear, cool summer dress that would work for a house dress or could be dressed up a bit. I had to tweak the fit of this one a bit after initially trying it on, but in the end I was happy with it. And I just adore the color and print of this quilting cotton! It is also available in a few others color ways as well. 

 

The bodice was intended to button all the way up, but just was too close to my throat for comfort, so I unbuttoned the top button and folded it down to make a little collar. Another time I will do this again, or just cut the square neck a little larger if I want a square neck.

And of course I loved the chance to use these large round vintage buttons from my stash. On such a simple dress, they really add a design punch.

 

But I also like that the dress pattern is not your usual princess dress pattern. I have plans for another version sometime in the future. 

 

Meanwhile during this sustained record-high heat wave here, I am grateful for cool cotton dresses like this one.

Toddler's 1930s Smock Dress

Among one of Riley Blake Designs recent fabric lines, I found another vintage-style print in a non-vintage collection called Ava Kate. It reminded me of feedsack prints. And I loved the pops of coral against the seafood background.

 

It was perfect for an everyday dress for my baby girl, especially now that summer is finally approaching. 

 

I made it from a vintage pattern - very simple pieces, with the front and back hanging gathered from a yoke. 

 

The sleeves were supposed to be gathered into a cuff, but I chose to do them butterfly style instead. 

 

When I was finished, I was not satisfied with the plain yoke and decided it needed more color. I had the idea of stitching down some lace with embroidery floss in French knots, and I love how it turned out!

 

I happened to have the exact same color of embroidery floss as the little coral flower centers, and it took just a little time to do the hand work. It looks so much better now. It's fun when plan B turns out better than plan A!

 

My little girl likes her new dress. It's easy to wear, cool and comfy for summer. Study quilting cotton means it can be washed and worn a lot. Plus it was quick to make, even with adding the lace with embroidery. I'm going to remember that technique for later. 

 

1930s Starburst Blouse

This 1930s blouse pattern was one of my earliest more challenging sewing projects way back in 2014 when I had only recently started making garments. I originally made a blouse that was very sloppy and ill fitting, but I remember noticing the unique way the sleeves were set, and it was the beginning of my intrigue with patterns that had neat details. Later on I became more precise in my construction in order to do such patterns justice!

That blouse got deconstructed later on, so it was high time to make a better version.

 

This adorable print from Riley Blake Designs' recent Mod Meow collection has tiny jade starbursts all over it, and I knew it would be perfect for a blouse. It comes in several colorways, and some of the other prints from this collection are also ideal for vintage sewing, especially if you like cats! A few would be perfect for 1940s or 1950s novelty print garments, while the starbursts work for any era.

 

I flatlined the bodice of the blouse so I don't have to wear layers underneath it. It had been a long time since I made this pattern, but I remembered it as I went along, which made the construction easier.

 

It was fairly straightforward to make, for the most part. There were so many gathers, it was difficult to make them all even. There are also a lot of little pieces to this pattern, but once it started coming together it made more sense.

 

The instructions were more detailed than many 1930s patterns, but I still had to just wing it a few times.

 

Sleeve details!

 

It's meant to be worn tucked or untucked, but I prefer the untucked so that's how I styled it, along with a 1930s skirt I made ages ago and vintage brown 1930s accessories.

 

I like the touch of color the starbursts give, while it remains a true neutral that can go with a lot of coordinates. And the soft ivory is a lovely color.

 

It makes a versatile addition to my spring and summer wardrobe!

1920s Baby Dress in Pastel Plaid

I'm so excited to be joining Poppie Cotton for their project tour featuring the new line, Kaisley Rose!

 

I debated between making a quilty project or a baby dress. The quilty project is still upcoming, but for my turn on the blog lineup I just had to make a baby dress featuring my favorite plaid from this collection. 

 

A friend of my husband had sent me this pattern because she knew I would like it. It's probably the oldest one in my collection - my guess is the 1920s or possibly very early 1930s. And isn't it adorable?

 

I hadn't settled on a pattern for the plaid fabric, but after this one arrived I knew it was the perfect match. 

 

The yoke is supposed to be connected with embroidery stitches to make some lacework between the layers. I decided to simply overlap them instead. 

 

That altered the construction method somewhat, so I ended up mostly just glancing at the instructions and putting it together how it made the most sense to me. And it turned out pretty cute!

 

As you can see from the pattern illustrations, it's intended to hang straight from the yoke in a smock style. But the quilting cotton was stiff enough that it really was too shapeless, so I added an easy tie sash in the same contrast as the yoke. 

 

I love the yoke detail so much! They make the cutest tiny cap sleeves for summer. 

 

I had just barely enough fabric for this - I ended up having to shorten the hem and cut them cross-grain to fit the front and back pieces on. But even still I had a 3" hem, so it looks just fine!

 

My little girl loves her new dress and enjoyed posing in it. It's not quite warm enough yet to wear it out of the house, but it will be ideal for hot weather when it comes!

 

I love some of the other prints from this pretty collection, so you'll see more later - but for now, enjoy the lineup of lovely projects made by other bloggers using this fabric. 

 

Monday, April 12	http://prettybyhand.com/
Wednesday, April 14	www.blueberryquiltco.com
Friday, April 16	designer@blueribbondesigns.com
Monday, April 19	https://www.nannygoatquilts.com/
Wednesday, April 21	theredfeedsack.blogspot.com
Friday, April 23	http://www.linenbouquet.com
Monday, April 26	https://thisandthatpatterns.typepad.com/
Wednesday, April 28	http://www.happyquiltingmelissa.com/
Friday, April 30	https://verityvintagestudio.typepad.com/my-blog/