On the first day we have had in months on which I did not need a coat, I found time to dress up to show you one of my latest sewing projects - a 1940s reversible coat.
The original pattern was for a redingote, made to match the dress in a lighter weight fabric and unlined - more like a duster. I would like to make a matching dress and light-weight duster in something, say, like lavender linen. But for this time I combined two coordinating fabrics in order to get myself two needed colors in my wardrobe in one garment.
Cutting it out both layers at the same time was not a good idea. The blue twill was fine, but the gray poly was terrible to cut! My arm ached after the first piece was cut out and I still had the rest to do.
Other than that, it went together well. While both fabrics were not that heavy alone, together they make a light coat with some warmth. I made the blue side first. It came together in an hour or so, being very simple to stitch.
When I didn't like the blousiness the inverted pleats created in the back, I deepened them.
The twill was easy to stitch, but is stiffish and holds wrinkles so I will probably not sew with it again.
My main difficulty was, and still is, how to keep whichever color is on the inside from peeking out. Probably partly my fault for a poor combination of fabric types.
I also did gathered sleeves instead of easing them smooth as instructed, and with the double layer of gathers in sturdy fabrics, I didn't need shoulder pads.
Side Two, in gray, was sewn up and then instead of a facing for either side, placed right side together against the blue side and sewn from the hem around the neck and down to the hem again. The sleeves were turned in and topstitched, with one color of thread on the top and the other in the bobbin.
Now in order to wear the other color of coat, all I have to do is turn the sleeves around and - presto!
This side of the coat is not identical, since I made a few changes for Side Two. Instead of top-stitching the pointed inserts on the front, I stitched them from the inside like the other seams.
And in the back, I avoided the pleats altogether and just did the seams princess style.
I like that it has a few differences. It makes it less obviously reversible.
Except of course that one side has the button and buttonhole reversed, necessarily! Ah, well.
(If anyone has tips for pressing gaberdine style poly, let me know!)
This coat was actually the trial run for a fancier, less-hurried, lined version in wool - I'm posting photos of that one next week! But for now, I'm pleased for the most part with my first effort at sewing a coat. But while I'm relieved at the promise of an early spring, I was hoping for one more week cold enough to wear my new addition!
This is great! Now you can have two coats in one! The fur ads a great accent of glamour. Love it! Great job! Very interested to see your next version. So cool you had a puffed sleeve effect on both sides.
Posted by: Joanna | 03/16/2015 at 05:44 PM