August Tutorial - Make Your Own 1940s Seamed Nylons

This month's tutorial is courtesy of my sister Elsie, who came up with the idea and did the models.

 

One must for authentic 1940s costumes are seamed nylons, since stockings then were made with a seam up the back. It's not impossible to find seamed nylons today, but a lot of times there are few options for a really authentic look instead of a rockabilly retro. In Debbie Sessions' excellent post on 1940s stockings, she pointed out that black back seam and cuban heels came into fashion in the 1950s. While I have seen cuban heels in some 1940s illustrations, they were not black, and it's almost impossible to find brown-on-brown cuban heels except from vintage style hosiery makers, which are pricey. So she recommended buying the nude or flesh tone option in seamed stockings, but often that is not quite correct either if it's too light in shade. Vintage nylons were usually denser, had more sheen, and were a darker shade than a lot of modern nylons. 

So all that to say, you can buy seamed stockings in different lengths, or pantyhose. But the options and sizes are limited, and you'll pay more for one pair than you will for a package of what you normally wear. So if you already have a favorite brand, here's how you can make an authentic look on any size or shade of nylons.

 

For this project, you'll need brown thread a shade or two darker than your nylons...

 

...a pair of nylons or pantyhose (these are knee length nylons, what we had on hand - a darker shade would be even better)...

 

...and a sewing machine. These models were made using the double straight stitch setting - a narrow, close zigzag would probably also work.

 

First, check your stitch on some fabric before you try it on the nylon!

Turn the nylon inside out and pinch the middle of the under side together, right sides together. You can do this an inch or so below the toe reinforcement. 

 

Start sewing the seam, very close to the edge. It will make a little bitty ridge but won't be uncomfortable to stand on.

 

You'll need to stretch it as you sew, especially around the heel area. A nice steady pull.

 

Keep it slow. The nylon will snag if you go too fast.

 

The seamed side will start to curve.

 

When you're done, you'll have a tiny ridge on the inside starting at the bottom of the foot.

 

And when you turn it right side out, it will be a subtle brown line.

 

Repeat for the other leg. To put them on, as with other seamed nylons, roll them up and guide the seams straight up the back with your thumbs.

 

While they will still not be identical to real vintage hose (though much more practical and comfortable!), you can use your own nylon choice for fit and comfort and end up with something much more similar to the real thing than a flimsy, pale facsimile. And you'll save a lot of pennies!

 

Till next month,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

Comments

[Mary Louise]

I know this tutorial is years old, but I feel the need to comment on it anyway. This is one of my favorite tutorials ever. It's so simple, so clear, so useful, and I'm so definitely going to do this! Thank you for helping a fellow vintage-lover in need! :)

[Kristen Stoltzfus Clay]

I'm so glad you find it helpful! I hope your trial turns out successfully. :-)

[Kari Hobbs]

This is AMAZING !!! I am a seamstress & never would have thought of this ! I plan on wearing stockings much more in the future but cannot afford $20-30 a PAIR of Retro looking seams. With the new "indestructible" pantyhose brands out there I can make a few pairs like this & save a TON of money to spend on my vintage wardrobe. This is truly genius & I thank you SO much for sharing !!! Happy days to you <3

[Elene Gusch]

THANK YOU! I have a '40s themed dance event coming up this week, and can't find seamed hose that I can get soon enough. While trying to shop for some online, I came across your tutorial, and made a pair of seamed pantyhose according to your directions right away. The only difficulty was to come up with a straight line in the back. The line is a bit wobbly on the thigh, but my skirt will cover that. The calves look fine.

[Laura Ingalls Gunn]

What an absolutely brilliant tutorial. Thank you so much!

[plipsy]

I tried this a bunch, but the needle always makes weak spots and they run when I put them on, or at some point soon after.

I found the answer tho, hairspray the crap out of them before starting!