Verity Vintage Studio

The Polka Dot Project - 1950s Cobalt Dress

Despite all the new patterns clamoring to come first in my immediate attention, I actually found time to make another version of my atomic dress - this time in what is possibly the most retro print possible...blue and white polka dots.

 

When I first had the idea for this dress, I thought, "I bet that pattern would look great in blue polka dot fabric with white band and cuffs! Wait...That sounds familiar..." and sure enough, one of the pattern illustrations was blue and white polka dot with white band and cuffs.

So, perhaps I'm not terribly original. Or perhaps it's just that...great minds think alike??

 

The 2nd time around, this dress was much easier through the trouble spots I had the first time. The neck band assembly went smoothly this time, and I got the band seams even with the shoulder seams this time as well. Woohoo! I decided to do the alternate band view or this version, but while it matched up on the shoulders it didn't lay right in the front for some strange reason so I ended up having to take a tuck in it on the center front. It's not too noticeable, I hope.

 

The cobalt blue, white-dotted cotton was fun to work with. Other than the band, I made few changes from my last version except that I made this version a little longer than the other, and chose to wear it with a purchased belt. Doing a pattern the 2nd time really makes assembly a breeze!

 

Of course red was the appropriate accent color! Just touches of it, for a vibrant summerish nautical look. Heels, lipstick, purse, buttons, hair bow.

To help make the front seam on the band look like it was intended to be that way, I pinned three vintage red buttons. Pinned because they are glass and I didn't want them to go through the laundry, and also so I can remove them and use a brooch or something alternate.

 

I wore this dress to help serve at an afternoon tea hosted by the ladies of a local church for the folks at the local assisted living center. It garnered a lot of compliments, and several ladies knew it was 1950s at first glance! That makes me feel like I'm doing something right. 

 

My first Polka Dot Project this year - it's about time! I enjoyed exploring this versatile print last year, and hope to continue this year. Starting with this dress.

 

It's a classic...and I have enough of the fabric left to make another dress too, which is exciting. I'll have to think of something different to use up the rest of it. But for now, I'm happy with how quintessentially 1950s retro this dress is.

Leaf Green Late '30s House Dress

Yet another addition to my new lineup of green garments this spring (funny how I tend to sew in spurts of color and/or era!) is a late '30s/early '40s house dress, in a leaf-green and white large flowered smooth cotton that reminds me of feedsack fabric. 

 

It can't get much simpler, or be quicker to make! 5 pieces to cut out in the whole dress, two small darts, no facing!, princess lines so there is no waist seam to match up and it's easy to fit. I did everything but the sleeves and hem in less than an hour, and cutting out didn't take long either. Yet still that cute vintage detail in the gathers on the bodice, top-stitched center panel, and the sleeves.

 

See? You can also omit the belt for added comfort, especially in warm weather.

 

The pattern called for novelty ruffling sewn to bias double fold trim, or if you didn't have that, separate ruffling and bias double fold trim. I ended up making my own bias trim out of the dress fabric, which both trims the neck and sleeve edges and finishes them. No facing needed at all! (Okay, so I don't hate facing. But it's one of the less-loved steps in sewing and I'm happy to omit it.)

 The ruffling is vintage, purchased at a lovely sewing booth in the antique mall Gina took me to. Such a fun find! I had just enough for this project. I usually prefer trim-less dresses, for the most part, letting the fabric and pattern details do their work, but this time the ruffling seemed to add the right sunny touch to a springy house dress - like daffodils in a green lawn - and duplicated the look on the pattern drawing so it felt like the right thing to do. 

 The few inches of leftover ruffling I pinned into a removable little frill to wear at the neck's V.

 

It was on the short side even though I lengthened the skirt pieces by an inch or so, so I ended up serging the hem edge, turning it up about a half inch, and topstitching it, since there was already topstitching on the center front panel - and anyway, for an everyday dress in a busy print I figured a topstitched hem would be fine. And save time.

 

After doing my headscarf hairstyle post, I decided to make a matching headscarf for this dress in case I wanted to do a similar hairstyle with this dress sometime. My hair was not behaving the day I took pictures so I used my instant hairstyle-fix hairnet and the scarf turned out to be just the thing to hide the elastic on the net.

 

I wasn't sure if I would like this shade of green on me, but I like it better than expected and it's a nice change from my favorite blues. It is a very happy dress and makes me feel perfectly in tune with the long sunny days and plethora of blooms and new leaves everywhere. So I had to showcase the spring feeling with a photo shoot in our little rock pathway, beside low banks of flowers that were exactly my colors.

 

I'm also happy about my shoes. I've been looking for a pair of white shoes or sandals suitable for wearing out-and-about for a long, long time. These Aerosoles I found on EBay were just what I have been wanting. The wedge makes them a little more casual, and the heel is the right height for spending hours walking without discomfort (I do not like wearing flats if I can avoid them); not too high or dressy.

These looked whiter in the picture, but while they are a little more buttery in person they aren't so beige as to be brownish, or so ivory that wearing them with white makes them look yellow. And - added bonus! - the front has a very 1930s vibe! In fact, if the heel was the same color or material as the shoe tops, instead of that faux stacked wood look, I could wear them for costume wear. If only the heel was real wood, I'd consider trying to match the color and paint them. As it is, they are close enough to wear them with vintage-inspired outfits for the retro look I gravitate towards every day.

 

I haven't made such a comfortable dress in a while. A lot of dresses from vintage patterns have some amount of constriction across the back or are too fitted for unrestricted movement. Which is fine, but some days I just don't feel like wearing something constricting. This one fits the bill for a simple, bright dress that is thoroughly comfortable to work in without requiring too much thought or frequent maintenance during the day.

 

It's funny how sometimes a simple pattern that is in my "someday I'll make it, it's kind of nice" category can turn into a definite winner. There's a good chance the pattern will be used again before summer's over!

Item of the Week - Purple Sparkly Handkerchief Vest

Item of the Week in my Etsy shop is this elegant purple sparkly lace vest, half price for one week only - slashed from $28.

The Bachelor's Button Bonnet

When I was antique shopping with Gina a few weeks ago, I brought home various goodies. A 1930s pattern, some ruffling which I promptly used in a sewing project, a vintage magazine and some books. Gina learned very quickly that I was side-tracked by rows of old books as we skimmed through the booths! But my prize of the day was this hat.

 

I think it's from the late '40s or perhaps 1950. It was too charming to let behind. The black straw with its cunning side loops and close fit to the head was lovely enough, but the corsage of pristine vintage blooms in delicate white and blue, all for a reasonable price, was too much for me. So it came along home to join my extensive hat collection.

 

I frequently mix eras when I dress up, unless it's for an event where I want to be as period correct as possible. But this time, by accident, the era of the dress I paired with the hat was a perfect match.

I've mentioned before how much I like the transition between classic 1930s and classic 1940s in fashion. But there was also this neat little fashion blip between the war-affected fashions of the mid 1940s and the quintessential silhouettes of the 1950s when older fashions were in style again - of course with some updating to make them fashion forward. Taking something old and redesigning it in a fresh way in nothing new to the fashion industry. Reading fashion ads in vintage magazines from this era you'll find descriptions of the latest thing including words like "bustle" and "carriage hat" and "poke bonnet" that sound much more like the late 1800s than the late 1940s. 

Here are some images from 1948 or thereabouts to demonstrate what I'm talking about. The first one is even edited to look like an old portrait photograph! The others - feathers, high buttoned shoes, jackets with peplums, hats - look heavily Edwardian in everything except for the skirt length and the made-up faces.

 

  

  

This dress (made last year as part of my Polka Dot Project) is from that window in fashion, and honestly (though perhaps my fabric choice contributed), doesn't it look almost 1910? Heavily inspired by the Titanic era, at least?

 

So at any rate, this hat deliberately has an older-fashioned-than-vintage flavor yet still with a chic element that would have been new back then. I love the charming combination.

 

Gina told me these are bachelor's buttons (I'll take her word for it, being fairly ignorant of flowers), and they are in such good condition. She told me to steam them to make them happy again, so I did. And they are.

 

I love vintage millinery flowers. Such better quality and so much more lifelike than most modern faux flowers! I like to use them for corsages and hair flowers as well, and it delights me to find these in pristine condition.

The thick grouping of flowers on one side did make the hat a tad heavier on that side, but nothing that a hatpin on the opposite side wouldn't fix. One more little detail was a wisp of black veiling that softens the front brim and nestles against the head just above the curls.

 

So, though it wasn't Easter, was it any wonder that I had a tune stuck in my head most of the day?

In your Easter bonnet, with all the frills upon it,

You'll be the grandest lady in the Easter parade...

 

Only in this case it definitely wasn't frills. It was flowers. Lots and lots of them!

Green Rayon 1940s Suit

So, I made up a 1952 pattern and when I was done, it looked more 1940s to me, so that's how I'm styling it. It's been a while since I've done anything 1940s, since lately I've been on a 1930s binge with a few 1950s things thrown in here and there.

 

Funny story about this fabric...when I saw the pattern I had the idea to do the narrow gores front and back of the skirt in a contrast fabric. I had this solid green rayon to use and found something that would go with it (sort of) as a contrast but the two shades of green weren't a perfect match. Then when I shook out the solid green rayon to wash it, here it was actually striped and I had had it folded inside out! Of course that solved my problem. I just used the wrong side of the fabric for contrast and the greens matched exactly.

 

With my serger, and some invisible stitching for the waist band, the inside looks nice and tidy. Which makes me happy.

 

The skirt was as simple as gored skirts usually are, with the added interest of the contrasting panels (less subtle in person than on the photos I think). Side zipper and hem and you're done. The jacket was easy enough to make - princess lines and triple front darts - but I started running into a few issues, especially with fit. So I'm not as happy with the finished jacket as I am with the skirt.

 

I did learn some things from this project. One is, don't use limp rayon for a structured top. This fabric would have worked much better as a ruched 1940s dress or something that could utilize the drape better. I could have fixed it I think if I had lined the jacket, but didn't think of that until too late, though I did use interfacing on the front for the buttons and buttonholes to help keep the fabric from stretching.

 

However as a good learning experience on this project, I did learn how to do this type of collar - my last attempt was not so successful! I ended up just sewing the collar on with a facing like I would normally. This time it turned out just fine. Using the wrong side of the fabric! :-)

Like my vintage flower pin? I'm finding that it goes with everything! (And of course, it's very springish.)

 

I finished up this outfit in time to wear it to finally meet my new friend Gina, whom I met on the blogging world and was thrilled to find out she lives not too far away! We met up and had lunch and she took me to her favorite antique mall in Meridian - a marvelous place that made my head swim with how big it was and the vast amount of goodies crammed into it. Some lovely sewing booths will become my favorites I'm sure. (Later this week I'll show you one of my favorite finds brought home that day!) We had so much fun together and had a thoroughly enjoyable day - at least I did! I love finding new friends that are also kindred spirits.

We dressed up for lunch and shopping - Gina went 1920s, I was 1940s. Hey, when you're wearing things for fun a decade or two out of fashion from each other doesn't matter, does it?? We got a lot of compliments. People love to see ladies dressed like ladies. But oh, I despair of ever reaching her level of seamstress accomplishment! Isn't her dress lovely?

 

I got this hat at another Idaho antique mall last year, and finally found the right outfit to style it with. Such a fun 1940s tilt hat - black straw, with a ruff of white flowers. Perfect for spring suits.

 

I suppose only time will tell if this outfit gets a lot of wear, but it certainly was a good sewing experience in a lot of ways so I'm grateful for what I learned.

 

And despite the 1952 date on the pattern, I feel very 1940s when I wear it!

 

Item of the Week - Beaded Brown 1950s Style Earrings

These handmade beaded earrings, made in the style of 1950s bead cluster earrings, are Item of the Week in my Etsy shop - half price for one week only - slashed from $9.

April Tutorial - 1940s Hairstyle with Scarf, Three Ways

After a week's delay because of a crazy schedule (this week hasn't been much better so far!) I finally got the pictures taken for the April tutorial. I'm super excited to share it with you because ever since I wrote the post on variety of 1940s hairstyles I have been doing more experimenting on myself. Call it practicing what you preach.

Lately I've been inspired by this photo.

 

A scarf is a wonderful retro hair accessory, and perfect for costume-worthy hairstyles. Plus they add such versatility and a nice dash of color! I'd like to show you three ways you can use a scarf to create different 1940s looks.

 

I realize that my hair is short and that is an assistance to creating vintage hairstyles, but at least parts of this hairstyle could be duplicated by ladies with longer hair, and hopefully it will be inspiring.

By the way, I'm extremely basic when it comes to hair supplies...shampoo and conditioner, sponge rollers, hairspray, brush and comb. To prepare for this hairstyle, I just took out my sponge curlers and did a very quick brush-through just to distribute the curls a bit. I did not brush the few curls on the top of my head on either side of the part.

 

Prep

The first step is to separate your front hair above each ear. You want a nice big section if possible but not too far back. I clipped the rest back for now, to keep it out of the way.

 

Then take the scarf and place it over your head, where the hair was separated. My scarf was about 1 1/2 yds long. I knotted it under my back hair to keep it in place for now.

 

There is a variety of ways to do the front hair. In the inspiration photo above, the lady wears two smooth rolls. That works, but I like to add a little more this time for myself. If you experiment, you can discover what you prefer. 

 

Right Front

 Starting on the right side of the head, take the separated front section and comb it through. If you want to have a few pin curls, do not comb them through (I kept a strand at the top in ringlet form for the pin curls). 

 

To make my roll, I just wind the hair around two fingers and twist it against my head. Make sure the roll is over the head scarf. 

 

Secure with bobby pins. You want as few pins as possible to make the hair secure, and they should be as invisible as possible.

 

Finished roll.

 

To add pin curls, I separated the ringlet strand that I saved out just under my part, and wrapped half of the strand at a time around my fingers to roll it up against my head.

Pin. The roll should keep these secure with just one bobby pin, if you can thrust the bobby pin through the pin curl into the roll.

 

First side done:

 

 

Left Front

For side number two, again I left the curls at the top and took only the side or longer portion of the separated section. Comb it out and make a roll like the first roll.

Try to make them even, if possible (mine rarely are! :-) Finished roll. 

 

 

Hairspray and smooth both roll and curls. Frizz is a no-no for 1940s hairstyles! 

 

 

I like the ringlet look on the top here, and it's certainly period correct. You could just pin the ringlets in place if you want and not comb them at all. This time though I wanted more of a wave, so I combed that section through and twisted the ends under.

Pin and hairspray.

  

Finished front. The scarf is quite secure because it is held on both sides by the rolls.

 

Back Hair

Now brush out the back hair. (If you have longer hair, a low bun would be a great way to deal with the back hair.) Don't brush it too much because you want defined curls, rather than waves.

 

Once you're satisfied with the brushing job, hairspray the top and smooth it down. You want it to be very smooth and the strands laying properly above the curls.

 

Scarf Look #1

Now the fun part comes, with the scarf! Of course the easiest thing to do is to knot it over one shoulder and let your hair hang over it. You'll see this a lot for casual costumes in the 1940s; often with a riding outfit or something similar. 

 

Scarf Look #2

Or you can take the ends and cross them underneath your back hair...

  

...and tie the ends in a bow on top, making a ponytail. Don't make it too tight - you want a wide, loose ponytail, not a stranglehold. This is a great hairstyle for summer since it keeps your hair off your neck!

 

Scarf Look #3

The third way to use the scarf ends is this time cross the ends on top of your hair...

 

...bring them underneath, loosely knotting them once...

 

...and tie underneath. Let the ends hang like this...

 

...or tie it in a bow under your hair.

 

A super cute way to keep your hair out of the way for a busy or warm day!

 

Of course, you can always nestle a flower clip where the scarf crosses. Just for fun.

 

 

Just a note about authenticity, if you do wear a scarf in your hair that should usually take the place of a hat unless it's a sun-hat worn with a casual outfit. But it's perfect for house, beach, or picnic wear!

 

I hope you enjoyed this vintage hairstyling tutorial. Thanks for stopping by this month!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

 

Item of the Week - Shawlette Digital Download Crochet Pattern

This crochet pattern download for a lovely lacy shawlette and rose brooch is Item of the Week in my Etsy shop, half price for one week only - slashed from $4.

Pink and Gray 1930s Dress

The April tutorial will be delayed a week, for the simple reason that I just don't have time to take the photos this week! But as a sneak peek, I'll tell you that it will be a hairstyle tutorial this month, so check back next week for that.

Meanwhile, here is one of my newest creations, and so far my favorite classic 1930s dress. I made it from a pattern borrowed from my sister-in-law, and it was truly a fun project. Lots of interest and nothing headachy!

(Excuse my twiggy spring background!)

 

The sleeves were the selling point for this pattern. I just had to try them even if they were challenging, and actually liked them a lot. They were easy to put together, despite the weirdly shaped sleeve piece, and by the time the sleeves had taken shape and were finished, that also meant the yoke and the bodice were complete - and without setting any sleeves in the armholes, or the reach issues of kimono sleeves!

 

The whole process was enjoyable. I liked the top-stitching and the way all the pieces came together for the bodice, and the self-facing on part of the neckline. The skirt is made with just two pieces. The back piece has 2 darts, the front is left as is. 2 darts and 2 side seams. You can't get much simpler than that!

 

I used a rayon/poly blend in a fine pink and gray plaid, and chose to highlight the gray for the yoke and sleeves. I did a bit of fiddling with the pattern. The front piece is supposed to be cut on the bias and gathered into a V by a brooch. I liked that look, but didn't want to cut the plaid on the bias so I cut it straight. Perhaps that was why it didn't look right gathered, so I altered it by doing a pleat in the front instead. It makes a nice spot to pin a brooch.

 

I tend to over-fit things because I hate a too blousy feel, whether it's period correct or not, which it is for many 1930s fashions. But this pattern hit a happy medium because it's blousy but not too much so. And just like my gingham 1930s dress, the bodice pieces had no gathers or darts where it attaches to the skirt. I'm beginning to think that must have been a common design element in the 1930s.

 

 

Instead of doing a traditional belt, I opted for a self-drafted belt with pointed ends that loop back on each other and button. Using the gray fabric for covered buttons ties the fabrics together perfectly. And I get a little more of that special Art Deco flair.

 

I paired the dress with this pretty pink hat. I'm not sure when to date it, but it looks like it could be 1930s. I just love the feather and rhinestone detail.

 

White gloves and 2 tone gray spectator pumps with an ankle strap complete the ensemble. I'll tweak the pattern a bit next time (I already have plans for the next version) but until then I'm quite happy with my first version, both assembly and finished garment! It's a lovely addition to my spring wardrobe and to my rapidly growing 1930s garment collection.

 

Item of the Week - Sparkly Black Cowl

This lightweight neck warmer or cowl in a sparkly soft black yarn, is Item of the Week in my Etsy shop, half price for one week only - slashed from $9.