Verity Vintage Studio

Blog Special! Vintage Shoe Sale

It is no secret that I have a passion for vintage shoes. But when buying them online, it can be hard to tell if they will fit or not. Sometimes I will keep a non-fitting pair just because I love them so much I wish I fit into it them! But it's time for a shoe purge...I'm saving up to buy a few expensive reproductions that really fit, so it's time to pass on the too-big or too-small vintage shoes in my collection that I never or rarely wear.

So I'm offering to my blog readers in the USA a special pre-sale, before I list them on Etsy or eBay. 

Shipping NOT included in the prices. Payment by PayPal within 24 hrs of invoicing: first come, first served. If payment is not received in 24 hours, I will move on to the next person.

NOTE: I am willing to consider Best Offers as well, though priority will be given to anyone willing to pay the full asking price.

To Reserve:

• Email me at joysinstitches (at) outlook (dot) com
  - Include your zip code
  - Include the number and title of the pair you want to reserve

I will have these available for blog readers only for one week. After that, they will be listed on Etsy or eBay.

I've done my best to describe them and the correct size - keep in mind all are at least 60 years old. Please compare measurements with a pair of shoes that fit you to determine if they are a comparable size. 

1. 1940s Rust Spectator Pumps, sz 8AA

$65.00

Gorgeous classic 1940s pumps with little wear. Lovely rust color with light tan stitching detail - brand Fedway Debs. They have the high vamp that could also mean they are from the late 1930s. A few minor marks on toe and one slightly darker spot the size of a fingertip on one side - not noticeable when worn. Heel is just under 3 in., insole measures 9 3/4 in. x 3 in. I'd estimate they are closer to a modern size 7.

   

   

   

 

2. 1950s White Pleated Heels, sz 9 1/2 AAAA   

$45.00 

Lovely white heels with dipped sides and pleating around the toe. These have been whitened at some point, and could probably use it again. They have some light gray marks around the edges common to well loved white shoes. Currently they have modern toe pads in the front of each shoe which could be removed. 3 1/4 in. heel. Insole measurements are 10 1/2 in. x 3 in. A rare larger size! I'd estimate they are closer to a modern size 8 1/2 or perhaps 9.

   

   

   

3. 1950s Shades of Blue Cutout Heels, sz 9

$30.00

Tweedies brand summer shoes in two shades of blue and white, with a gorgeous cutout shape and toe area and slender heel. The light blue has seen better days - there is plenty of fading, light discoloration, and spotting. Not too noticeable when worn (ideal for stage productions), and perhaps can be brightened up with leather treatment. Insole at the toe is beginning to curl. 3 1/2 in. heel. Insole measurements are 10 1/2 in. x 3 in. I'd estimate they are closer to a modern 8 1/2 or 9 narrow.

   

       

 

4. 1940s Chocolate Brown Leather Heels, sz 7B

$50.00

Air Step brand in chocolate brown smooth and soft leather, with virtually no signs of wear. Great walking heel height of 2 1/2 in. Supple leather - lots of wear left in these! Roomier toe box width-wise than many vintage shoes. Insole measurement 9 1/2 in. x 3 1/8 in. I would estimate they are true to size.

   

   

   

   

Easter Dress 2017 - a 1940s Adventure

For my Easter dress this year, I decided to step out of my tried-and-true comfort zone and do something rather different for me. I have long loved Esther's beautiful tropical 1940s dress - I liked it so much I bought the pattern after seeing her version.

 

But the pattern languished in my stash for a while. I didn't think it would look right in cotton, so I wanted a nice drapey fabric for it, and hadn't worn peplums before so I wasn't sure how good it would look on me. 

That changed when I saw some bold floral rayon crepeon fabric on sale for a few dollars a yard and decided to be adventurous and get some. Right away I mentally paired it with the Butterick reprint, and decided it would be my Easter dress this year. Something new for me.

 

New in more ways than one! I read up on the fabric first and decided to try it - it's similar to rayon challis but has a little more density and a bark-like texture that hides wrinkles. I'd never worked with fabric this stretchy and gauzy before, and wasn't sure if I would end up with a total flop, or wish I'd gotten more of the fabric.

 

Neither ended up happening. When I washed it, I was amazed at how much it shrank (thankfully I'd been warned by Esther's experience), but then that also made it a little denser which was fine. Cutting out wasn't too bad (I had to be careful with the bodice placement and use lots of pins, being careful not to stretch out of shape as I cut) but sewing was a challenge as the fabric just wanted to grow on each seam. 

Definitely a fabric of this type has to be used for a dress with little structure. This one was fairly simple, but I did have trouble with the front bodice - the only really structured piece of the dress.

 

When I looked closely at the pattern, I had two issues with it. First, I expected the peplum to be sewn on at least one side into the side seam, but the instructions indicated it would hang free. I wasn't sure at all that would look right - sounds like a good recipe for an apron look to me! But the fabric was so soft and drapey I decided to risk it, after reading several reviews of the pattern where no one mentioned a problem with the construction - though I don't think I would ever make it in cotton or any stiffish fabric.

The other thing I didn't like about it were the sleeves. I wanted short sleeves, but I didn't like the ones shown, and the arm holes looked just too big. But I went ahead and cut it out, substituting the sleeves for tulip sleeves from another reprint.

 

Sewing it with patience, I managed to get it all put together despite the stretching. The hand sewing was almost invisible in the loose weave of the fabric, which was nice, and the hems pressed so nicely. 

 

The dress is very comfortable, and the fabric really is the perfect match for a 1940s silhouette. Several people complimented me on it and all were surprised I had made it, since it "looked store-bought" - always flattering for a seamstress to hear. :-) I know a lot of that was the fabric, so I'm glad I made the choice to get it, though I don't think I would work with it often.

 

Because it has a nice width-wise stretch, I am hoping to be able to wear it as maternity even when I get bigger, even though this is not a maternity pattern. I think the peplum is flattering as well for a baby bump.

 

And the peplum doesn't look apron-y at all, which was a relief!

 

But the sleeves openings, on the other hand, really are too big (not for the period, just for my taste), though I like how the tulip sleeves look. Another time I will just substitute a different bodice pattern to pair with the skirt.

 

The fabric is kind of strange - when I wash the dress, it shrinks up width-wise, and when I put it on it feels a trifle snug, but relaxes after a little bit of wearing and by the end of the day feels too big! Probably because of the stretchiness of the fabric.

The belt doesn't stay put because of how limp the fabric is, and I wanted an adjustable one - with maternity in mind - so I just pin it in place. 

 

Because of how busy the print is, I paired it with very simple accessories like my favorite 1940s spectator heels (comfortable enough to wear all day!) and a classic ribbon-covered beret. Though I have to say, one thing I like about the print (an unusual color scheme for me) is how many colors will coordinate. Brown, green, beige, white, coral, tan, dark red...I could pair it with a different color of accessories every month and always find something to match.

 

Overall, I'm glad I tackled the adventure. I'm really pleased with the finished product, will get a lot of wear out of it, and love how Period Correct the dress looks - but at the same time, boy! Was I ever glad to get back to working with some smooth and stable cotton again!

Item of the Week - Lot of 2 Lovely 1960s Sewing Patterns

Item of the Week in my Etsy shop is this lot of two lovely 1960s sewing patterns, half price for one week only - slashed from $14.

 

And just a reminder - this week is your last chance at 10% off all hats, vintage and handmade in the shop! The April hat sale ends soon...

Adjustable 1940s Striped Housedress

Here's my next sewing creation with maternity in mind, though the original pattern is a teen girl's style and not intended at all for pregnancy. Yet I think it will work very well, and doesn't look like a maternity pattern so I can wear it afterwards too!

 

 

I made it out of some lightweight cotton in cheery nautical stripes. It features an adjustable waist via wrapped ties and loose front panel that can gather more or less as needed. I think the panel would hang well in rayon or a drapier fabric as well, but this fabric makes a great summer 1940s house dress.

 

I had a few adventures with this pattern. For starters, when I opened it up I found out it was missing two  pieces - the collar and the front panel. The collar I knew I could substitute, and the front panel thankfully I could eyeball when I compared the sketches of the front and front side on the back of the pattern envelope. It worked! 

Then too, I had to size it up 4-5 inches, which created a few bumps later on with fitting. Again, though, since there is no waist seam in the front and the panel is adjustable depending on how tightly it's tied, it wasn't as big a deal as it might have been since I could already adjust the fit. I overdid it a bit, ended up having to take a few darts in the back neck, and still couldn't quite fit the collar correctly. I also had to open the front seams a bit and move down the ties which I first placed too high, and it ended up on the short side despite the narrow hem. But I have a better idea of how to size it up if I make it again - and for an everyday dress I'm not terribly particular about perfection.

 

The front panel I did differently so that it could open for nursing. I still sewed it at the top to the yoke, but faced it at the top down to the waist and overlapped it all the way down, topstitching it from the waist down to the side front. On the under layer, I used wide bias facing to double as both seam finishing and a more solid base to sew the buttons to. It adds a fun interior touch.

 

Facing on the top inside:

 

Seam finishes:

 

Because of the wide waist and the neck zipper, I don't need to use the buttons to take the dress on and off, so I won't find out until it's time to use it for nursing if I left enough room to do it comfortably. Meanwhile I think they add such a cute, double-breasted touch to the dress! They are some of my favorites from my new additions to the button stash and I have a few left for another project yet.

 

I used a bodkin for the first time to turn the belts and it made the process a lot easier! I definitely recommend. 

 

I simply turned up and top stitched the sleeve and hem edges since it's an everyday dress...that saved some time, so the only hand sewing was the neck facing, hand picked zipper, and the buttons. Once more my one step buttonhole foot came in handy.

 

I really like the way the front panel looks. It is very comfy, and there is plenty of room for expansion. On me it looks like a maternity dress at the moment, but on my mannequin (whose size I used to be) it looks very trim. I have a dress pattern of similar design actually intended for maternity which would need less alterations and has all the pattern pieces, so I don't know if I'll do this pattern again - I may just stick with the other. At least I'm pretty sure now I will like it when I do make it up.

 

 

Because it is for everyday, I merely accessorized it with my comfy red 1940s slingbacks. A brooch distracts from the buttons, and  a house dress like this one most likely wouldn't have been worn out of the house, so gloves and hat weren't necessary. Another time I might add red nail polish and a bracelet, but otherwise leave it simple.

 

This was yet another one of those projects I cut out, eventually got around to putting the front together (the difficult part since I had to figure out how to make it work with buttons), then had to drag myself to work on it more...until I actually sat down and started. Then it was a breeze to finish and really enjoyable. I guess it really helps to take my own procrastination advice! ;-)

 

The dress is trim, breezy, and comfortable - everything a house dress should be. Despite the few hitches in the process, I'm fairly pleased with this dress, chalk it down as another successful learning curve, and am definitely ready to keep experimenting with maternity-friendly vintage dresses in the future.

Item of the Week - Sparkly Black Cowl

This lightweight cowl is Item of the Week in my Etsy shop, half price for one week only - slashed from $9.

   

Why I Like Thrift Stores - Classic Trench Coat

The classic trench coat is a style that has been in fashion with very little change since the 1940s, which makes it a great easy to find addition to your costume wardrobe without having to make one. Mine is this modern lightweight lavender coat, scored at a thrift store years ago for a dollar or two, which I break out every spring.

 

It's very basic, with straight lines, a tie belt, buttons down the front, collar, and patch pockets. All very typical of 1940s coats, which were yet another civilian way to incorporate military styles in their fashion. This particular style is very practical and turned out to be extremely popular and worn yet today.

 

 

While a lot - perhaps most - 1940s trench coats were double breasted, there were also the single breasted coats like this one, so you don't have to worry about accuracy in that regard when coat shopping.

 

In the 1950s, trench coats tended to be either boxier and worn without a belt (though belts were also worn), so the style we know today is most suitable, costume wise, for the 1940s era.

 

Long coats were usually the same length as the dress hem, or perhaps a little shorter as hem lines varied from year to year - but never, never longer than the dress underneath - something to keep in mind if you want to look well put together.

 

While trench coats are typically neutral colors today, especially khaki, in the 1940s they were often bright and interesting shades like mustard yellow, sky blue, forest green, etc. So again, the lavender color of this one is right on track - and it's surprisingly easy to pair with different outfits, something that I wasn't sure about when I got it.

 

One nice thing about a trench coat style is that it isn't fitted at the waist, which makes it adjustable and more likely to fit different body types, rather than a princess style coat - also a popular vintage style from the 1930s on.

 

This was my Palm Sunday ensemble this year. I paired the coat with a season-transitional dress I made for Thanksgiving a few years ago. It's another one of those dresses that was too big for me and now fits me again, with an alternate (i.e adjustable) belt. :-)

I still want to make another one eventually in a solid color so the details show better - and try narrower ruffles this time.

 

 

Once again...wind made pictures challenging.

 

I always enjoy a change from my heavy winter coats and sweaters once it's spring enough to wear my light coats! When it costs practically nothing, is suitable vintage style, and I didn't have to make it, so much the better!

Item of the Week - Vintage 1950s Dress Pattern

Item of the Week in my Etsy shop this week is this 1950s/early 1960s dress sewing pattern, half price for one week only - slashed from $7.

Talking About Sewing Vintage Maternity

 

I have to say that I'm not a fan of a lot of modern maternity clothes. Too tight. Nor do I want to look like a walking tent. I am hoping that the vintage maternity patterns I have - from back in the day when it was in good taste to disguise your pregnancy as much as possible - will turn out to be helpful with being tastefully dressed even when I feel like a lumbering walrus.

Not that I've ever felt like a lumbering walrus. But I've heard descriptions from friends who have experienced something similar towards the end of the third trimester, so I expect my time's coming.

Some of these vintage maternity patterns are quite creative, with a fitted front or back and an adjustable panel on the other side, which means you can fit it to your particular size at any given time. I look forward to seeing how well it works in real life.

   

There are also the classic 1950s styles with a narrow skirt that has a cut-out around the belly, and a long, drop-from-the-shoulders blouse. Though I think that is less becoming, especially on women with wider shoulders (aka me).

   

Photos from Pinterest

 

However, I'm not limited to just the few patterns I have labeled "maternity". As I looked through my pattern stash, I was surprised how many dress patterns are suitable, especially in the early stages when you just need a bit more room. First of all, just princess seam dresses without the restricting waist seam will work for a while.

   

   

   

 

Peplums and inverted pleats can help to disguise the growing bump as well.

   

 

Wrap dress styles are still used for maternity.

 

For later on, there are dresses with releasable gathers on the front or side, draw strings, or waistless like my recent project. Of course they are shown with a belt, but that can be easily omitted. Some of these may not fit all the way through the pregnancy, but on the other hand they don't look "maternity" either, since they weren't intended to be. So they can be worn afterwards too.

You will likely see makes of most of these patterns appearing on the blog in the next few months.

   

       

 

I also know that many women's bodies mature and change after their first pregnancy (not everyone can fit back in their wedding dresses after a few sit-ups), so it's a good idea to avoid making super fitted dresses at this stage when you don't know if you will be able to wear them again. With that in mind, a dress like this pink striped one that I made last year I find very comfortable for early pregnancy. No belt, a waist that hits above the belly, the bias skirt has some give to it around the hips and plenty of fullness under the pleat in the front, and since it has a blousy, button-down bodice, I will be able to wear it after the baby comes even if I do develop into a different shape. (Though of course I'm going to try very hard to regain a trim figure afterwards.) Another version of this pattern is in the works.

 

For afterwards, I can look for normal dresses that open down the front - or can be made to open down the front. Almost any dress with a center front bodice seam can be made to open with an invisible zipper, or buttons - though that means a bit more alteration since it either has to overlap or have a modesty panel and button loops. A dress with a center front seam means you can put a longer zipper in and do away with a side zipper altogether, which makes it easier to get in and out of.

   

   

   

 

There's always the classic tunic for a more modern look. Similarly, shirt style blouse patterns from the 1940s and 1950s that are not fitted at the waist are also fairly easy to find, and can be worn tucked in when you're trim, and out over top when needed.

     

I've also discovered that it's a good thing to have a range of pattern sizes is the stash and some too-big clothes in your wardrobe - you know, the ones that didn't fit you anymore but you didn't want to get rid of. There is a stage where a few extra inches at the waist doesn't need to be cinched in with a belt anymore. When I was closet purging before I got married, my mother warned me not to get rid of all the clothes too big for me since I lost weight, and I'm glad I listened. It's called being between sizes, though it also means keeping a larger wardrobe on hand, and one where what fits you well fluctuates at any given time.

But of course, for some days it's awfully nice to have in your wardrobe some modern dresses, skirts, and tops in the comfy knits we've come to enjoy - things that will stretch, have elastic waist seams, or with empire waists. They can be pretty too.

 

Of course, some of this still remains theory. As I actually make and wear different outfits as the pregnancy progresses, I'll be able to experiment with just what does work best in real life!

And I just got some yummy new fabric, so it's time to get back to the sewing machine...

Item of the Week - and Easter Hat Sale!

Item of the week is this pair of gorgeous chocolate brown suede 1950s sandals, size 7.5-8. Half price for one week only, they are slashed from $35.

 

Also, in honor of Easter coming this month and the long standing tradition to break out spring hats on that day, use the coupon code 10OFFHATS to get 10% off any hat in my shop, vintage or crocheted. Sale runs all month long.

1960s camel wool pillbox hat with feather

 

crocheted repro Edwardian tam

 

1950s ivory wedding hat

 

teal cotton crocheted tam

+ more! Check out my shop here.