The Fabulous Forties: Women's Suits

While I have never made a perfectly fitting, lined, tailored 1940s suit, I have a huge amount of appreciation for them, and not just because they are work intensive! In sharp contrast to the mostly similar silhouettes of women's suits of other decades (think 1980s...) the 1940s seemed to be especially creative in the variety of cuts and embellishments that made the suits of that decade fascinating to me. The same attention to detail that you would expect to see in a hostess dress or dinner gown can be found in many suits of that era, some of them even elevated from the original use of business wear to suitable for a more formal setting.

Every woman had at least a basic suit for traveling or church wear, if not for business. Yet the changes that were rung on the simple idea of a skirt and jacket are amazing. For your own inspiration, here's a look at some of the gorgeous variety in vogue then.

Of course there were some just basic suits without any trimmings - the secret to looking classy in the basics was to have it perfectly fitted and in a nice fabric.

 

But why go basic when there are so many options for fantastic? 

One of the easiest and most dramatic ways to spice up a suit is a creative use of buttons! In triplets, in decorative tabs, in multiples, in slanted lines, in statement size...looking at these photos is enough to make me rethink the common button row as boring!

 

More ways to play around with closures was to go asymmetrical.

 

There was a variety in jacket styles, which certainly would have helped the wearer find one that flattered her body. From the bolero style cut away in the front and just joined at the waist, to one with an inserted belt, you could get creative if you didn't like the usual suit jacket.

 

How about embroidery to make things interesting? Here Loretta Young sports a suit with dramatic embroidered panels.

 

Fabric choices can make a big difference too. A simple suit style makes the most of the gingham fabric with bias belt insert and pockets, and pleated skirt.

 

Here are stripes in play.

 

Use bands of another fabric for trim!

 

While one color suits were most common, you could also coordinate for a 2 piece look.

 

Collars and cuffs are a great place to step out of the ordinary.

 

As for added detail, the appliqués, tabs, pleats, ruffles, and pocket detail on these models are breathtaking!

 

Here's a fun idea - a perfectly plain suit is the backdrop for a giant chain that goes from one breast pocket to another for a necklace look.

 

This image shows 3 different classy suits, all of them subtly special in some way. The one on the left has contrasting pocket detail and collar binding, as well as bias play. The center one has an interesting closure and some amazing contrasting appliqués. The simplest one, on the right, still has pocket detail and is double-breasted for an out of the ordinary look.

 

While some of these would be challenging without a pattern, some of the detail additions or closures would be easy to adapt to any basic suit pattern. Each of these ladies look so perfectly put together and smart - it's a real challenge to bring as much attention to a suit as to a cocktail dress. All these images have inspired me...one of these days I will have to find the right fabric and tackle a sophisticated 1940s suit. 

Only with so many ideas and options, how on earth will I settle on which one I want???

Comments

[Cate]

Wow, so many wonderful suits! I particularly like the first asymmetric one, the jacket on that is amazing. I love how it gathers into the bottom button and nips in the waist.

[Jennie DeVries]

Great post. I love 40s suits and have been a collector of them for years. I have even made a couple for myself. . .I don't think the ones I have made can ever measure to the originals though. Something for thought, in the over 20 suits I have in my collection, only half are fully lined. Some just have a pinked edge while some have a folded over seam allowance edge that is stitched, the seams then pressed open flat. Some are also only half lined with the body lined but not the sleeves or the other way around. The construction of them varied so much even for very similar styles.
Thank you for sharing!
Jennie from theuglydame.blogspot.com

[Kristen Stoltzfus Clay]

Thanks, Jennie! As a collector, you have more experience than I do with actual 40s suits and I'm so glad to hear I can cut corners when it comes to lining without guilt! ;-D

[Ladies Long Coat Sheep, NAPPA, Black & Dark Brown]

Is very nice information, thank for your post..