Verity Vintage Studio

1940s Gray Gingham Rayon Dress

This dress was a bit of a fun challenge. I've sewn up dozens of vintage patterns over the years, but this is the first time I've done darts like this - yet don't they add such a quintessential and fun 1940s touch?

 

First I had to sew the shoulder seams, and then do each dart all at once, from front to back right over the shoulder seam. Other than transferring all those dart markings, it really wasn't too bad and turned out very nicely the first try!

 

The sleeves also had dart detail. Otherwise it was a simple dress with a button front and fold down collar. I forgot to lengthen the back collar seam when I cut out the bodice piece a size larger (grrr) so had to piece it. Thankfully that part is underneath since you are seeing the facing piece!

 

I used the skirt from the same pattern I used for my Thanksgiving dress a few years ago. I really liked how that skirt looked but thought it would be better in a limper fabric like rayon, so decided to use it again here instead of the plain 4 gore skirt that was paired with this bodice . It does add a little more character to the dress, and those narrow gores do hang much better!

 

I had a fair amount of trouble with the bodice fit - so much so that I actually took it apart and redid part of it. Usually I'm a "slap a belt over top and call it good" sort of person, but this time there was no way I could make it fit right so I ripped out part of the zipper, the waist seam, and redid it differently to suit me better. It came out much nicer the 2nd time around so it was definitely worth the extra effort!

 

I also started with silver buttons, but they just didn't seem to look right, so switched them out for covered buttons (on the bias of course) instead and was much more pleased with the result.

So it was not exactly a speedy dress for all its simple lines, but much more pleasing in the end. It's interesting to note how that sometimes an image in your mind just doesn't look the same in real life, and to keep flexibility and second options on the table.

 

The gray is so versatile. It can be dressed up or down for spring, summer, or fall. Here I pair it with a sweet new to me lavender hat (in poor shape but it only cost $4 at an antique store) and gloves that I dyed YEARS ago and just happen to match the hat perfectly!

 

A silver gray like this also goes with black, of course, and I tend to default pair it with navy blue accessories (though I'm really liking it with lavender!), but honestly - red, green, yellow, teal, pink, raspberry, purple...the accessorizing possibilities are endless.

Just to demonstrate a bit, here's the same dress with a springish mixture of aqua and light pink.

 

And here it is again, a little more formal, with dark green and black. (Ok, so my barnyard backdrop is not so sophisticated...;-D)

 

The gloves deserve their own little photo since they are so unique. Called "balloon gloves", I got a pair on eBay years ago because they were simply so unusual. I've rarely worn them, but still! :-)

 

I'm really happy that my work of stitching and restitching turned out so well, and expect to get a lot of wear out of this since it is so versatile and fits so many occasions easily. Maybe next summer, though, since the weather here has turned cool already, and I don't want to cover up those amazing shoulder darts with a sweater!

 

New Look Favorite Floral Dress - and a Castle

On a recent vacation in Colorado, I got the opportunity to tour the incredible Glen Eyrie castle. I wore one of my new dresses, so of course I had to get photos there - it provided the most amazing backdrop instead of my usual back yard photo shoots!

 

This dress was a happy combination of pattern, fit, and print. I've gotten so many compliments on it already. My mom said it was the most beautiful dress I've made yet - and it's just a simple princess dress with a little pretty detailing in the back! Yet the striking floral print (JoAnn's stretch twill) really does make it special.

 

The back is gathered into a flattering V. I wasn't sure how the twill would behave when gathered, or if I should have used a more limp fabric, but it turned out perfectly and lays just fine.

 

The collar is cut in one with the front piece. I outlined it with some white lace so it wouldn't be lost in the print.

 

Large prints are hard to find. This one did make cutting out the dress a bit more difficult than normal, since I had to be careful with the rose placement, and it was a one way print. Thankfully it was a wide fabric, but even still I had barely enough to cut out the pieces. I was glad I had gotten an extra half yard!

 

I had intended it for an everyday dress, but it turned out so beautiful that I tend to wear it more for dress-up. The stretch twill is sturdy and comfortable to wear, and though it is still cotton like most of my other summer sewing, is a diversion from my favorite quilting cotton prints.

 

Instead of a side zipper I inserted an invisible zipper in the front. My sewing machine has somehow gotten the needle off center over time, so it is very difficult to use my zipper foot. As a result, this zipper is not perfectly inserted and I may need to touch it up a bit.

 

It's ideal for summer since it's dark yet floral, doesn't need a belt or layers, doesn't usually need pressing before I wear it, so I can just zip it up and go.

The simple lines of the princess dress are ideal for such a busy floral, so the fabric and pattern compliment each other perfectly.

 

Now a little bit about the castle...It's the most beautiful mansion built by a very interesting and remarkable man, General Palmer (raised a Quaker but he ended up fighting in the Civil War and became the 2nd youngest Brigadier General in the US military), who also owned the local D & R G Railroad. It's nestled deep in a Colorado canyon close to Pike's Peak, surrounded by towering red rock spires and named because of an enormous eagle's nest, perched high on the rock wall - still there after 150 years. First he and his wife lived in one room over the stable while they built a 20 room wooden house, then eventually he built this castle. Sadly he only got to live in it for a few years before he died, and his wife never got to live in it since she had to move to England for her health by this time in her life. 

 

After his death and his daughters' death, the castle changed hands a few times and at one point fell into disrepair and was vacant for 20 years before being rescued by a family from Texas who lived there and restored it, including all the beautiful red stonework and bridges and landscaping. Now it belongs to the Navigators, a Christian worldwide organization, who use it for their headquarters. It can be used for weddings, retreats, and is a working hotel with a tea room. You can actually stay in the original castle bedrooms if you want!

 

The general was a noble Christian man and philanthropist. He had originally bought 10,000 acres, so much of Colorado Springs is now situated on land that was originally his. He freely gave a whole city block to anyone who wanted to build a church in town, and was the local benefactor of many, including providing employment for 200 people (his household employees were "staff" not servants!) and Christmas entertainment for every child in town. He was also extremely innovative, bringing electricity and other modern conveniences like a weather prediction system, fire protection systems for the castle, 360 degree shower, heated bathroom floors, and even a central vacuum, to Glen Eyrie - often the same time as New York City was discovering those conveniences.

It warms my heart to see the beauty and power of wealth used for good by a wise and kind person.

Red rocks and canyon scenery, which was the view from his windows.

 

The interior was interesting (the family brought back antique fireplaces, church tiles, and windows from Europe) but since it is used now as a hotel and conference center, it felt a little more like a unique historical hotel inside rather than stepping back in time. But the exterior, along with the carriage house/stable, gate house, and other outbuildings (there's also a tunnel that runs from the carriage house to the castle!) are all in pristine condition and mostly untouched by modernity.

I highly recommend anyone who vacations nearby to stop in and take a look. It's well worth the visit!

Plus I could pretend I was princess for a day...:-)

Simple Summer 1940s Skirt and Blouse

When I made my 4th of July dress this year, I pulled out some navy fabric from my stash to use as contrast, only to discover it was a heavier weight poly blend that was much more suitable for a skirt. And solid color skirts are great staples I have too few of, so I whipped up a quick skirt that turned out even better than expected.

 

I used the skirt from this dress pattern, which worked well since I just used the inserted belt as a real belt, cutting it wider. It has super simple yet classic 1940s lines with that special touch of asymmetrical button closure which makes it really fun and interesting.

 

One piece in the back, a single pleat in the front under the closure. The closure was easy to do (though since I was in a hurry and it was an everyday skirt, I may have fudged a bit on the finishing touches and kind of "winged it" ;-) 

 

I used off-white vintage buttons from a card of 4 in my stash, so it was a perfect match and a great stash busting project. 

 

Of course it goes with lots of different tops. This one is a very early make of mine which never made it to the blog. 

 

I actually spent a fair amount of time and effort on it back in the day, doing some seam finishes and trying to get the pleats correct. But it never fit me well, so I hardly ever wore it. Well, recently I decided to cut it up and use it for contrast if I wasn't going to wear it, but I tried it on first - and really liked it! It fits me much better now.

 

The lovely gathered back under the yoke gives me free range of motion, unlike some of the more constricting styles that I wear occasionally. Perfect for everyday; as is the dark colored cotton. 

 

It has dart fitted waist yet roomy top above the skirt belt, so it doesn't look quite right untucked, but that fitted waist really helps a lot with keeping it in place when you wear it tucked in (which works for this skirt anyway so you can see the few waist details). The fashion designers knew what they were doing!

 

The collar was supposed to be notched, but it didn't turn out like that as you can see. I think it still looks ok, though.

 

It still has plenty of make flaws, but I'm very happy that it is wearable after all those years dormant in my closet!

An outfit like this reminds me how simple and classic really has tremendous timelessness for a reason, and can still be very suitable for the wear and tear of everyday. Comfortable and classy is one reason I love dressing vintage!

Wardrobe Staple: Late 1930s White Blouse

I've been so busy this summer crossing exciting, urgent projects off my to-make list that I overlooked a wardrobe staple that I badly needed - a white, lined blouse.

 

Too many skirts haven't been worn because I had nothing that would go with them, that I could wear without a slip, at least. And I really prefer to wear button tops that don't need to be tucked in, as long as I'm nursing. So I finally decided to remedy the problem by making a white blouse that will go with everything - and it's lined, so I don't need a camisole.

 

I chose a late-ish 1930s pattern I've wanted to try for some time. This hip length style is flattering on me.

 

Since this was a more structured, tailored style blouse, I didn't want to use any of my white rayon lengths, which would be more suitable for a blouse with draping and detail. I instead used a cotton with white-on-white chevron print.

 

It's actually fairly stiff. I'm not sure what I'll use the rest of it for, but it works pretty well in this application. 

I flatlined the bodice and cut a single layer collar out of some embroidered eyelet.

 

It's a very simple blouse - 3 main pieces, 4 pieces to cut out total - so it was the perfect background for trying some embellishment. The possibilities are endless, of course. I used some wide crochet lace in a double row across the shoulders (and got it neatly matched up on the overlap, and remembered to space it correctly so it would work with the buttons *pats myself on the back*) and added a narrower row on the sleeves. I like the femininity of the trim and the white on white. 

 

It was easy to put together. Front and back darts, darted sleeves, a Peter Pan collar. Pretty basic stuff. I puzzled a bit over the way they had me do the hem, but I think I figured it out. Of course one of the benefits of flatlining is none of your hemming stitches show on the outside!

 

I used some vintage white plastic buttons from the stash. The fabric was sure a bear to make buttonholes in!

 

But anyway, now I have a classic white blouse that will work for 1930s or 1940s, that I can wear handily while nursing, and fills a definite gap in my closet. Here I went 1940s, as I have it paired with the plaid skirt I made to coordinate with my true vintage 1940s soldier blue jacket a few years ago. I wasn't as particular about my sewing then - now I would make sure the plaid matches on the center seams! 

 

I also trotted out my one-and-only pair of Bait shoes. Their shoes are lower priced than a lot of reproductions, but they are not real leather, which was a drawback; besides, a lot of their styles are only vintage inspired. Their Romona was cute enough and accurate enough for me to spend the money on - and I really did want to be able to compare faux leather and real leather repros side by side.

 

I love the color; it was advertised as navy, and it's more a winter blue. Which is gorgeous, but doesn't coordinate with my wardrobe as well as real navy would. It goes with the blue in this skirt really well though! And the heel is high enough to be smart but low enough for comfortable walking.

 

They really are well made and tasteful too - the red and white polka dot lining is adorable. But I've decided that, for me at least, it's better to save up a bit more money and go for real leather reproductions in the future. The faux leather is hotter to wear, doesn't mold to my feet (no leather stretching spray will help here, with getting a perfect fit or fixing an uncomfortable area), and if it scratches, peels, or chips is much harder to fix.

But I'm still glad I have this pair, since they really are so cute!

 

Altogether it was a simple but sweet summer outfit. It will be interesting to see what other combinations I find to utilize the versatility of this blouse!

Tutorial: Make a Vintage Style Double Strand Faux Pearl Necklace

Ever had a hard time finding exactly the right color and length of pearls to wear with your vintage outfits? (Or anytime, for that matter.) Today I am going to show you how to make a double strand of pearls, just like the ones that were so popular in the 1950s.

 

You can use all the same size of pearl beads, or do a gradient strand with different sizes. I chose to use 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm pearls.

You will need:

flexible beading wire (I used nylon filament)

glass pearls

2 small 3-way connectors

4 crimping beads (not shown)

pliers

a clasp of some sort

Also scissors or something to cut the beading wire with.

 

Close up of the connectors.

 

Begin the Necklace

Cut 2 strands of beading wire a few inches longer than you think you will want. Take one end of one strand, pass it through a crimping bead, through one of the loops on the connector on the side where there are two, and back through the crimping bead.

 

Push the bead close to the connector but not right against it. Pinch the bead shut firmly with the pliers to secure the beading wire. Trim the wire close to the crimping bead.

 

Now you are ready to start stringing pearls. We will make the longest strand first. For this strand I used 5 4mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, 31 8mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, and 5 4mm pearls again.

 

You can hold it up to your neck to estimate if it is the right length. I wanted mine to nestle right at the base of my neck.

 

To finish the strand, take the remaining few inches of beading wire, pass it through the crimping bead, through one loop on the remaining connector, and back through the crimping bead again. Tighten it close to the connector but not too snug. It needs to have some wiggle room for the pearls to hang correctly. Pinch the crimping bead shut and trim the end like the first end.

 

First strand is finished!

 

The second strand will be the shorter one. It starts just like the first one. Once the beading wire is secure to the other loop on the connector, string your pearls, using a few less this time. For this strand I used 4 4mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, 29 8mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, and 4 4mm pearls again.

 

As you string pearls, curve the strand to get a better idea of how they will lay. The strands should be almost the same length if you want them to lie closely together on your neck.

 

Pass the remaining end of wire through the crimping bead, the opposite connector (be careful not to twist it unless you want a twisted strand of pearls), and back through the crimping bead. But before crimping the final bead, hold the necklace up to your neck to make sure it is how you like it. Then finish this end like the others by pinching the crimping bead and trimming the end.

 

It's almost finished! The only thing left to do is to attach the clasp. I used a barrel clasp for mine since the little hook on the end rotates. You can either attach each end directly to the third ring on the 3-way connector, or if you find that is too close to the connector to manipulate easily, add a small jump ring, which is what I did here with a 3 x 4 mm jump ring. Either way, you simply have to open and shut loops with your pliers.

 

The completed necklace!

 

My favorite strand of vintage faux pearls is a little too long for some of my dresses, so I needed one that hugs closely to the neck. This one is the perfect addition – and of course, I can make a longer one too if I need one. You can use beads other than pearls, if you prefer, and also use the same basic idea to make double or triple strand bracelets with the smaller pearls and shorter strands of beading wire; or omit the connector and do a single strand necklace, attaching it right to a jump ring or the loop on the end of the clasp.

 

So there you go – a quick and easy way to make your own vintage style faux pearls. They don't take that long to complete, and of course you can make them in any color or length desired for a particular outfit. I can't wait to wear mine!