This early 1940s dress was a bit of a (pleasant) surprise in several ways! I'd had this mini green rayon plaid suiting on my shelf for years, and never got around to making it up. Each autumn and winter other fabrics would end up higher on the queue. This year I decided I really wanted to use it, so was paging through my pattern catalog when I took a closer look at this pattern - Hollywood 413, an Ann Sheridan style - and realized that the skirt details were kind of cute, and it was simple enough to not be unsuitable for a print.
It was a pattern I had bought in a lot of others and was missing its envelope. I had printed out a photo of the front cover so I would know what it looked like, but it didn't have a back sketch, so I actually had no idea until I had started to cut it out that the back was so unique. If I had noticed that before, you bet it would have been higher on my to make list!
The other issue with no envelope meant I had no idea of what size it was, since it was an unprinted pattern. I found a similar style of dress in my size and matched up some of the pattern pieces. Thankfully they were really close, so I could assume it was my size - lucky break! I did add a little extra on the side seams and back skirt seam when cutting it out, on the principle that I can always cut some off, but can't add some on after it's cut out.
After that, construction was a breeze. There were a ton of tiny dart tucks across the back and on the frot, but the nice thing with this fabric is that I could end them all on the same line of plaid so that I could be sure they would be even.
Once the bodice was put together, I basted on the the skirt, and tried it on. The back was too long and it pouched out, so I ripped out the basting threads and cut an inch or so off the back bodice, and also cut a little off the arm holes since they were too tight and moved down the front dart tucks since they ended at an odd place on the bust. Other than that, it went together without issues.
And I absolutely love it! I have full range of motion with that awesome fullness in the back, yet it fits well so there is no unsightly blousing. The front details are so nice, yet the back is just as nice, so you get lots of back pictures this time! :-)
The skirt is tailored so it looks slim, yet has a nice fullness and length. The flared front small inset panels are so cute, especially with the belt tabs (which of course could be omitted if desired).
After a quick search on Pinterest, I saw that collars so often were white even if there was no other contrast, so I did the collar in white rayon, and added black buttons from my stash.
The rayon behaved beautifully and drapes nicely. I really have come to love rayon suiting, since it is denser and heavier than lighter rayons. It is sturdier and less fragile, launders just fine, and is as easy to work with as cotton, but hangs better.
The green and black fabric is perfect to style with different colors of accessories. I think it will be lovely during the holidays with red added in, and is versatile enough for summer as well (hence the short sleeves to keep it more transitional) but for more of an autumn feel this time I paired it with my coral grape earrings and a large vintage wooden grape dress clip I haven't worn before.
I made it in time to wear it to our church's harvest dinner (sort of a blend between a Thanksgiving dinner and a Veteran's Day celebration) so that's where the title comes from.
My favorite vintage heels got an outing as well, before the weather turns wet and slick.
The pretty leaf colors are no longer on the trees, but this thick carpet is almost as nice for autumn photos. :-)
I can't believe I let this pattern languish so long in my stash without finding how cute it is and how much I love it. Now I want to make another version in a solid color!
It's one of my favorite pre-war dresses to date.
Another very impressive outfit!
Posted by: Rebecca Young | 11/16/2018 at 10:09 AM