Verity Vintage Studio

January Tutorial - How to Make a Refillable Footwarmer

There's nothing like a foot warmer. On a cold night - and Idaho nights in the mountains can be cold! - it's incredibly comforting to snuggle your chilly toes into a deliciously warm spot down under the blankets when you crawl into bed. I used to enviously read in old novels the description of hot water bottles that were used as a matter of course when the weather turned frosty, and suffered with cold feet myself until I was researching hot water bottles and discovered the novel idea of foot warmers! I hate to wear socks in bed, and without the sloppiness of hot water bottles, a foot warmer like this one can be reused again and again, laundered and refreshed when needed, and keeps heat for more than an hour, without electricity. Plus you can make one in fifteen minutes - how handy is that?

 

You'll need...

8 1/2 x 25 in. piece of all natural fabric

sewing machine

cotton sewing thread

cotton string (crochet thread works great)

wide mouth funnel 

rice, corn, or oatmeal for filling

 

You want an all natural fiber because you don't want to put anything synthetic in the microwave. Believe me, you don't want to try it. So stick to 100% cotton fabric, like the retro printed quilting cotton I used, or something similarly completely natural like linen. You can cut it a different size if you want it shorter or fatter or longer for use in a wide bed. 

 

So, start with your rectangle of fabric - press it first.

 

Sew a narrow hem on each short side.

 

This is how it will look with the short ends hemmed:

 

Now French seam the long side together. To do this, hold it wrong side together (counterintuitive I know!) and run a 2/8 in. seam.

 

Turn it wrong side out and run a 3/8 in. seam to encase the raw edge. 

 

Now you have a tube that looks like this:

 

Turn it right side out:

 

The simplest part - use your cotton string (I use crochet thread to make sure it's 100% cotton) to bind one end a few inches from the end. 

 

Using your funnel, fill the tube with your choice of filling. I like the texture of oatmeal, but you can use shelled corn or rice. Each one has their fans. Any of them will have some scent after heating, so I like to mix in some dried lavender blooms with my filling. So when I take it out of the microwave it smells something like lavender porridge!

Tie off the other end and you're done! When you want to use it, microwave it 30 seconds at a time until you get it to your preferred temperature. Any time you want to launder it, or refresh your filling, just untie one end and dump out the filling. Super simple! 

 

 

And believe me, a warmer is so cozy to tuck against your back if you're not feeling well, or at your feet on a cold night. They are better to sleep with than electric heating pads because the heat gradually fades. But I find them long lasting enough.

 

That's all for this month's tutorial. Thanks for stopping by!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

 

December Tutorial - Crochet a 1940s Style Star Ornament

This month I designed a little crochet star ornament especially for my blog readers, inspired by pictures of 1940s aluminum star ornaments. It's the perfect way to add some vintage homemade specialness to your decorations this year.

 

For these ornaments I used Knit Picks' Curio, size 10 cotton thread. I can't say enough nice things about this thread. It comes in a gorgeous color palette (though limited), it's so soft to work with, and it comes in enormous yardage of 721 yards per ball. That's a huge amount of thread for your money!

 The pattern is written out below in standard American terms. But first, here are a few step-by-step photos to guide you through the process.

 

At first it looks nothing like a star!

 

Tightening the slip ring gives you 5 loops, like a flower.

 

After the first few rounds, it's starting to look like a star.

 

You could stop after Rnd 5. Nothing wrong with that. 

 

 

But like the icing on the cake, do one more round to emphasize the points and add a bit of trim.

Then the large star is done. You could easily add a chain loop for hanging before you fasten off. I prefer to use the less noticeable ornament hanger inserted through one tip, so omit a chain loop.

You could use this little fella all by himself, but there's more, just to add a little more with color fun.

 

 

 In another color, make this teeny tiny 2 round star, leaving a long end for sewing, and stack him on top of the large star.

 

 

Once he's in position, whipstitch him in place, all around the edge so his points won't curl. Weave in all the rest of the loose ends, and it's done!

 

You could starch the star if you want it super stiff, but if like me your stitches are tight, the star will hold his shape without starching. To get a perfect shape, mist it with water and pin it to your ironing board to dry, stretching out the points. 

 

So...without further ado, here's the pattern: 

 

1940s Christmas Star Ornament

Materials:

Knit Picks Curio size 10 100% cotton thread (721yds/100g per ball)

-a small amount of both Bluebell - 26273; and White - 26255

size 7/1.65mm steel crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

tapestry needle

 

Skill Level:

low intermediate

 

Gauge:

Not important - use a hook size small enough to get nice tight stitches with your thread.

 

Abbreviations:

ch=chain

dc=double crochet

hdc=half double crochet

lp(s)=loop(s)

sc=single crochet

sl st=slip stitch

st(s)=stitch(es)

yo=yarn over

 

Finished Size:

2 1/4 in. at widest point

  

Special Stitches:

dc3tog (double crochet three together)=yo, insert hook in same st as ch 2, draw up lp, draw new lp through 2 lps on hook, (yo, insert hook in next st, draw up lp, draw new lp through 2 lps on hook) twice, draw new lp through all 4 lps on hook

 

Large Star:

Rnd 1: With your main color, make a slip ring, (ch 7, sl st in ring) 5 times. Pull loose end of slip ring to close tightly. 5 lps

 

Rnd 2: sl st in next 2 chs of first ch 7 lp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, ch 1) in each ch 7 lp around; join with sl st in first sc. 10 sc, 10 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 3: ch 1, [hdc in next 2 hdc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch 1] around; join with sl st in first hdc. 30 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 4: ch 1, (hdc in next 3 hdc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, ch 1] around; join with sl st in first hdc. 40 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 5: sc in each st around, working (hdc, dc, hdc) in each of the 5 dc; join with sl st in first sc. 45 sc

Rnd 6: sk first st with sl st in it, * sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, in dc work (dc, ch 2, sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st, ch 2, dc) sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in each of next 3 sts; rep from * around; join with last sl st in first sl st. Fasten off.

 

Small Star:

Rnd 1: Make a slip ring, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 1) 5 times in slip ring, join with sl st to first dc. 15 dc, 5 ch sps

Rnd 2: [ch 2, work dc3tog (see Special Stitches), ch 2, sl st in top of dc3tog, ch 2, sl st in same st as last dc of dc3tog, sl st in ch sp, sl st in next dc] around; join with sl st in first ch; fasten off, leaving a long sewing end. 5 points

 

Finishing:

Weave in all ends except long sewing end. With needle threaded on long sewing end, sew small star to center of large star. Block or starch if necessary.

 

I chose blue and white for these ornaments, but you could use endless combinations of red, gold, green, silver, ivory, rose, white...anything that takes your fancy or matches your decor. You could even do random bright colors and use up your odds and ends of thread. You can hang them alone or in coordinating pairs scattered over the tree, or go wild and make a whole bunch and thread them together to make a garland. 

So find your crochet hook, turn up some big band Christmas music, and get in the 1940s Christmas mood!

 

Happy crocheting!

Till next time,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

 

 

June Tutorial - How to Make an Earring Holder

This month's tutorial is a project easy enough that most of you have probably no need for a tutorial, but I was in a great need for an earring organizer and was so pleased with the result of this idea that I wanted to share it with you.

 

After trying several ways to sort my fishhook earrings, I couldn't find anything that really worked and knew that someday - when I had time - I was going to make a real earring holder. When I recently came upon a pair of white painted wooden large picture frames at a consignment store, I realized I would finally actually bite the bullet and make the organizer.

 

To make similar organizers, you will need:

picture frame(s)

craft paints (optional)

staple gun OR hot glue gun

fabric cut to a little larger than the frame openings

 

These frames were already white painted, and had little grooves. Nothing fancy, but cute.

 

I could have left them as is, but decided to have fun with some cheap acrylic paint. I'm not normally good at freehand, but was pleased with the way these turned out.

 

I put several coats of blue in the groove on the frames, then used toothpicks to do little flower adornments, reversing the colors and using a slightly different-yet-coordinating cheerful vintage style flower design for each frame, so that they could stand alone or be used as a set.

 

For the back, I used some vintage feedback fabric I had on hand. I like it because it is sturdy and heavy-grained enough to hold up well under a little weight and be pierced easily by the earrings. I used a staple gun and tried two ways of fastening the fabric rectangles, stretching them taut as I worked.

(You could also use a hot glue gun to secure the fabric to the frame - a little messier to work with but it wouldn't slide around on the staples...)

For this one I tried stapling it in the groove where the picture normally sits.

That laid the fabric right up against the frame, but it was much harder to work with.

 

For the second one, I just laid it flat and stapled it to the back of the frame.

 

That was a lot easier, but then you can see some of the unfinished frame between the white paint and the fabric...no big deal for me.

 

And there they are! Super easy and quick - quicker if you don't paint the frames.

 

Ideally the fabric should be zig-zagged or some sort of fray check put around the edges, but I didn't feel like it, so there it is. I like the way they coordinate without being identical.

 

And they worked just great for earrings, which was the main point.

 

Being picture frames, you can hang them singly or together, on a wall or door as practical home decor...

 

Or lean them up against something so you can page through them.

 

I filled 'em up! And now I have all my earrings easily accessible and can see what I have at a glance. A big improvement, and one more small detail of my life organized.

 

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

Project Journal - Fabric Painting and 1940s Pumps

Not long ago on Ebay I garnered another gorgeous pair of 1940s heels for my collection at a great low price - and they fit! The shape is lovely, with classic 1940s styling and as always, beautiful detail.

 

But they needed some TLC. The seller said they needed a good cleaning, and they did. Originally a lovely off-white linen, they were grayish in tinge - more noticeable in real life than in the photos - and had multiple spots and bumps.

 

They also had, very faintly, a white design on the toe around the rhinestones and faux pearls.

 

I tried tracing it with a white coloring pencil, and while that helped a little, the design still wasn't noticeable from a distance.

 

So I set about restoring them. First, after looking up ways to clean fabric shoes, I tried a toothbrush and small amount of water and soap. That didn't work - only made the glue underneath show through in a yellowish circle.

 

So the next idea I had was fabric paint, since these are a linen-like fabric. After some research, I ended up purchasing 2 ivory shades of DecoArt's So Soft fabric paint, in hopes that one would be close enough to the original color - since that was the color I really wanted! It's so hard to find an off-white not too yellow or tan. But their Buttermilk was an almost exact match!

I put down a newspaper to cover my work surface and started painting. The fabric just ate up the paint, with a brush full doing only a square inch or so, but it adhered instantly and I could tell it was going to stay. I brushed in both directions following the grain for solid coverage.

 

The first heel done. See how it contrasts with the main shoe. And all those marks gone!

 

Here's the heel from the inside, with one half painted and one not.

 

Over the toe, I tried to work around the rhinestones, but usually got some paint on them anyway. But since this is fabric paint, it scratches right off the rhinestones.

After it dried a little - the paint dried very quickly for me - I tried the paint marker on the toe. The first half went well, but then the marker started acting up, so the rest isn't quite so nice. I think a ball-point would have worked better.

Here is the shoe with the design half done, next to the unpainted one. 

 

What a contrast! The painted shoe makes the unpainted one look all the dingier.

 

After that it was a quick matter to paint the other shoe - I gave each one only one coat of paint - then I left them sit overnight to dry completely, though they were dry to the touch in a very short time. I was so happy with the result! Plus, I can touch them up and make them look like new again if they get scuffed or marked with use.

 

 

I'm not an artist, so the designs have some unintended individuality. Especially since the marker was acting up. Maybe someday I'll repaint the toes and draw the design with a better behaved tool. 

 

But meanwhile they look so nice - almost like new - and are the perfect shade of ivory. Just what I wanted! My first trial with fabric paint is a definite success.

 

And the result is so very '40s! 

 

(I can't wait to pair them with my ivory-and-lavender Easter dress. Stay tuned for a photo later!)

March Tutorial - Dainty Butterfly Bow Mixed Media Earrings

It is snowing here and it seems winter will last forever. But after my recent winter-themed tutorials for wraps and furs, I was in the mood for something small and spring-ish. These dainty earrings help drive winter blues away!

 

Who doesn't need a little romantic touch with bronze and lace? If you're not used to making jewelry, don't worry - these are as easy as bending, opening and closing loops and making a needle go up and down. Here's how to make them.

 

You will need (for each earring):

filigree chandelier finding with 5 loops

matching metal earring wire

3 matching metal headpins

4 small round beads

2 small faceted beads

2 seed beads

1 in. lace scrap

needle and thread

wire cutters

needlenosed pliers

 

Before we get started, let's talk about the chandelier finding. I don't know the model number of this one since I got it in a mixed bag, but it should be easy to find something similar online or in your local craft store. It has 5 loops on the bottom and the filigree work gives me a base to sew later on.

 

And you will want 1 in. lace that has a finished edge on both sides; cut it to 1 1/2 in. long.

 

Putting it Together

1. Place a round bead on a headpin; with your wire cutters cut off the extra headpin leaving room to bend a loop.

 

2. Bend the headpin in a loop around one end of the chandelier finding.

 

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the other end.

 

4. Now place a round bead and a faceted bead on another headpin, trim off the extra...

 

5...and attach this loop in the center. It already looks cute, and of course you can stop here if you like, but there's more!

 

6. With your needle and doubled thread, tie a knot, and weave the needle through the center of the lace like this:

 

7. Draw it tight and bind the center to make a cute little bow. Twist it around so the unfinished edges are in the back and everything lies evenly.

 

8. Sew it securely to the chandelier finding. I used the center hole at the bottom and a space in the filigree just up from that for my sewing base. 

 

9. Before you fasten off your thread, sew a seed bead and a round bead with one stitch in the center...

 

...and a faceted bead and seed bead in another stitch. Knot it securely on the other side and fasten off.

 

10. All you have to do now is open the loop on the earring wire, insert it in the top loop, and pinch it shut.

 

Short and sweet!

Repeat steps 1-10 for the 2nd earring, making sure when you do step 9 you switch the position of the beads so they mirror the other. 

 

Of course you can use any color of beads or metal findings you wish, making it unique. I chose shades of brown and bronze and cream for a little Old World romantic feel.

 

Now don't you feel more like spring?

 

I'll be back with another tutorial next month. See you then!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, vintage, repurposing, etc.

 

Free Pattern for 1940s Style Crochet Double-Ruffle Brooch

As promised, here is the pattern for the 1940s style brooch I designed to wear with the Traveling Dress. Easy and quick, not only did it add the right touch of cream to tie together the look, it also filled in the V neckline for me. 

I used a seashell button to match the dress, but so many options are available with a variety of buttons to get your own special look or matching touch - ideal to showcase a fragile heirloom or vintage button you don't want to launder. 

Besides, crochet was very popular in the 1940s for accessories and garments, so it is perfectly authentic for costume wear. And cute to wear everyday.

 

1940s Style Double-Ruffle Brooch

(c) 2014 Kristen Stoltzfus

 

Materials:

approx. 10 yds size 10 cotton thread in cream color

size 7/1.65mm steel crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

tapestry needle

vintage button

1 in. pin back

spray starch

rust-proof pins

 

Gauge:

first 2 rnds= 1 ½ in. across

Skill Level:

easy

 

Finished Size:

3 in. across

 

Pattern Notes:

All rnds are worked RS facing.

 

Brooch:

Bottom Layer:

Ch 6, join with sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: ch 3 (does not count as first tr), (tr, ch 1) 23 times in ring; join with sl st to first tr. 23 tr, 23 ch sps

Rnd 2: sl st into first ch 1 sp, (ch 1, sc) in same sp, (ch 7, sc in next ch sp) around, ch 3, dc in first sc to form last lp. 23 ch lps 

Rnd 3: (ch 1, sc) in same st, (ch 6, sc in next ch lp) around, ch 3, dc in first sc to form last lp.

Rnd 4: rep Rnd 3

Rnd 5: (ch 1, sc) in same st, (ch 5, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, ch 3, sc in next ch lp) around; join with sl st in first sc and fasten off.

 

Top Layer:

Leaving long end for sewing, rep Rnds 1-3 of Bottom Layer

Rnd 4: rep Rnd 5 of Bottom Layer.

  

Finishing:

With needle threaded on long sewing end, center and sew top layer to bottom layer, sewing button to the top and pin back to the underside. Covering button, spray starch thoroughly and pin bottom layer to dry, lifting top layer and scrunching it so it ruffles a little and doesn't lie flat against the bottom layer. Let dry.

   

August Tutorial - Sew an Easy Retro Apron from a Dishtowel

I wear an apron all the time in the kitchen, and from the grease and stains that eventually covers it, it's evident that I like to wipe my hands on it! What better apron for wiping hands on than a dishtowel, more absorbent then fabric? So I created this easy retro apron from some vintage fabric and a checked dishtowel. 

 

You'll need:

1 dishtowel

small amount of contrasting fabric

scissors

pins

iron

ruler

white washable pencil color (optional)

sewing machine

 

I chose a vibrant colorful flowered vintage fabric to contrast with the purple checked dishtowel.

 

1. Measure your waist. Add 12 in. plus seam allowance. For instance, if your waist is 30 in., you'll need a piece of fabric 43 in. long or 30 in. + 12 in. + 1/2 in. seam allowance + 1/2 in. seam allowance. 

 

You can make your waistband as wide as desired. I wanted mine wide, so I doubled the fabric over and cut it at 4 in. wide, which with seam allowance take out leaves 3 in. for the finished width. Laid out flat that would be 8 in. wide.

 

The band cut out:

 

2. To prepare the waistband, fold up the seam allowance on the long sides and iron it.

 

Then fold the ends in and iron them.

 

Fold it in half lengthwise and press.

 

The pressed waistband, ready for sewing:

 

3. Next is to prepare the dishtowel. I like to put a bit of waist shaping in mine so it doesn't look like a rectangle wrapped around my waist. The easiest way to do this is to put a single wide box pleat in the center, like this:

 

However, I think a pleat looks too bulky at the waist on me, so I chose to do 2 darts instead. To do this, I measured from the center to where I wanted the dart on each side of the center.

 

I marked that spot with the pencil, then measured over 1 1/2 in. and put another pencil mark.

 

To find the tip of the dart, place the ruler against each dot slanted toward the middle and mark that spot.

 

To sew each dart, I held the top 2 spots together and angled the seam to end at the single dot in the center.

 

Now this is how it looks:

 

4. To add the waistband, center the side of the dishtowel with the darts in the center of the waistband and pin it. The dishtowel will be between 2 layers of waistband with the raw edges folded up.

 

5. Top stitch the ends...

 

...and across the open edge, which also stitches the dishtowel in place.

 

6. Now try it on and decide how far you want the ends of the waistband to overlap.

 

7. Choose your buttons and where to place them. I put mine too close together, as I realized later. But you learn by doing!

 

8. Make your buttonholes.

 

...and sew the buttons to correspond.

 

Now it looks like this:

Of course if you don't want pockets, you can let it as is, or add rickrack, lace, or other trim or appliques or embellishments. Since the dishtowel is hemmed, that's all there is to it. I want to do another one with several rows of baby rickrack at the hem and some vintage buttons for glam.

 

9. For this one, I chose to add a pocket. Instead of the usual square or rectangle pocket, I cut out a square and then rounded the corners to make a U shaped pocket.

 

10. I hemmed the top of the pocket and turned in the other edge and basted it.

 

11. Then I cut a 2 in. piece of narrow elastic and on the wrong side of the pocket, about 1 in. from the top hem, I stitched one end of the elastic in place:

 

Then I stretched out the elastic as I stitched, which created a nice gathered look.

 

Here's how it looks on the inside:

 

12. The last step is to choose where to put it on the apron - slanted or straight, low or high. Pin it in place.

 

13. Top stitch it on the curved edge, and pick out the basting stitches.

 

Give the apron a good press, and you're done!

 

Of course there are many varieties that could be made just by using different prints of dishtowels and contrasting fabric, other styles of pockets and trims. This one I kept simple, but it's fun to wear and more fun to think up how to create varieties!

 

Practical yet pin-up Retro - just how I like it!

Till next month,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month.      Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, vintage themed, etc.

 

 

June Tutorial - Making Plain Heels into Titanic Era Court Shoes

Vintage shoes from the 1900s-1920s are hard to find in good shape and in modern sizes, so what to do when you want Period shoes for a Titanic or Downton Abbey costume? Shoes from that era were mostly similar in general shape, with lots of strap and toe detail. No sandals yet, but cut-outs, embroidery, multiple crossed straps, bows and buckles, and similar features on their high heels were all popular. The main distintive of shoes from this era is the heel shape. So when you're looking for costume wear, the first thing to look for is heels of the right shape.

 

I found these 1980s heels at a thrift store. Their heels are perfectly shaped. In the 1980s when throwback fashion was common, many styles of shoes were made with this kind of heel. The rest of the shoe doesn't look so Period, but the heel is great.

 

So I did an internet search for photos of shoes from the era - Edwardian-Titanic-Roaring '20s - I was hoping to copy. Most times the decorations were of the same material as the shoe, but I did find some with contrasting ribbon bows, which inspired this project.

Here's how to make costume-worthy court shoes out of an existing modern pair. Plus, with detachable brooches, make them to match any outfit and switch the colors whenever you feel like it!

 

You'll need:

1 pair shoes

1 1/2 in. wired gauze ribbon

3/4 in. matching solid ribbon

felt scraps

glue gun

brooch/pin backs

scissors

2 buttons (or more)

needle and thread (not shown)

 

Now, about the buttons. First I had intended just gluing a button to the front of each shoe, but since I am picky about matching metal tones, I didn't want to put a silver button on them in case I wanted to wear gold jewelry, and vice versa. That's when I had the idea of making them brooches, to be removable.

And there are no better buttons to use than La Mode's Vintage line. These are super great buttons for costume work, since they are copied from originals and each card is dated with the approximate era the buttons are from. These are circa 1860-1900, which is perfect for the style of shoe I'm working on.

 

Besides being unique and good quality, they are beautiful!

 

So, to begin.

 

Here's the starting place - the plain shoe toe.

 

1. Lay the wider ribbon across the toe, where you want it to end up. I chose wired ribbon for this because it would stay where I put it better and keep its shape, but you can use a soft ribbon.

 

The shoe is slanted and the ribbon will need to be too. So lay it across the top and and cut it along the sole on both sides, including an extra inch to roll up on each side.

 

2. Keeping the same slant, roll up the ends until the cut part is hidden.

Match it against the shoe to make sure the slant is right.

 

Fold up the tip that sticks out. Secure the whole edge roll with a drop of glue.

 

Repeat for the other side. Here's what it looks like now.

3. But because the end doesn't look very neat and we can't tuck it between the sole and upper as a shoe maker would have done if decorating it originally, take the narrow ribbon and wrap each end, keeping the slant the same. Secure with a drop of glue on the wrong side.

 

Here's what it looks like when finished:

 

4. Now lay it across the shoe and secure each end the whole way along, and one drop in the center to keep it in place.

 

5. To make the bow, just take a doubled piece of wide ribbon as wide as you want, and cut it to that length. 

 

 

Wrap the center with the narrow ribbon, to form the bow shape. Secure the narrow ribbon with a drop of glue on the back side where it won't be seen.

 

6. Glue the bow to the center of the ribbon on the shoe.

 

Repeat all the steps above for the other shoe.

 

Now to add the right silhouette to the shoe, we'll make detachable brooches with the buttons. There are two styles.

 

#1 Brooch - Plain

First I had La Mode's 170001703 buttons, which are a 1 in. cupped shank button in antique gold.

 

 

 

To make these into brooches, I cut rough circles of felt a little smaller than the button, with a slit in the center for the shank to go through.

 

I stacked 3 of them together with dots of glue between, and glued them to the button. This builds up the back and makes a place to glue the pin back.

 

I glued the pin back to the top of the button. 

 

Yet from the front it still looks like a plain button.

 

#2 Brooch - Ruffled

The other two buttons were La Mode 170001706, which is a flat-backed shank button...

 

 

...and La Mode 170001718, a flat button with 2 holes. Both of these I needed a backing for, which I did the same way.

 

Tie a knot in the thread end, and weave your needle through one side of the narrow ribbon, gathering it.

 

All you want is a circle, which may take about 5-6 in. of ribbon. Keep gathering it until when you pull the needle through and tighten the thread, it makes a ruffled circle, similar to a yoyo.

 

Secure it with a few stitches so it stays shut, then use the needle and thread to sew the button to the center front and the pin back to the back. This adds a nice soft ruffle outline the whole way around the button.

 

 

 

 

If you can sew them both on at the same time, so much the better. (I love short cuts. :-)

 

So there are your brooches, and they can be interchanged on the shoes depending on what style or color you want to accessorise with. And of course, worn separately as brooches on collars, lapels, handbags, hats, gloves, etc.

 

I loved the painted shell button brooches!

 

Styling:

I had to see what they looked like in costume, so here are some pictures of them with my Titanic skirt and accessories. Enjoy!

 

 

 

That's it for now. Till next month!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, etc.

April Tutorial - How to Make a 1950s Hat for Spring

Since Easter is this month, which means it's spring hat time, I thought I'd show you how to make a cute 1950s style hat that anyone can make and customize and it fits any head size, using just 3 things.

 

I'm always on the lookout for smaller hats or head adornments to wear at restaurants or other formal occasions. I saw one on Ebay that was made of velvet covered wire twisted with 2 loops on either side and had just one strand like a headband to go over the head, and it looked so classy and easy, so I decided to make something similar for myself. I couldn't find a heavy gauge covered wire, so I decided to make my own.

You can see the classic 1950s silhouette.

 

You will need:

wire cutters

floral grapevine

wired 5/8 in. ribbon

 

1. Wrap the ribbon around one end of the grapevine several times to hide the end.

 

Keep wrapping, overlapping the edge so it starts to cover the grapevine. Since you are working with 2 wired substances, the best way is to keep the ribbon stationary and turn the grapevine as you cover it.

Keep on wrapping! It's amazing how much it takes to bend in a few loops.

When you get a lot wrapped, go ahead and start shaping it. I did mine in 2 loops of slightly different sizes. The smaller loops will go in the front. (Of course you can try bending it in all sorts of other shapes.)

Here it is a little farther along. By this time I held it on my head to determine how long the across piece should be, and started the loop for the other side. You want to make the loops like a figure 8, always crossing on alternate sides.

 

 

If you like it with a slightly rustic look, wind the ribbon loosely so the grapevine shows through occasionally.

 

Now it's wound far enough that I am ready to join the 2 ends.

 

 

With the wire cutters, clip the grapevine off and cut the ribbon with 4-5 in. extra.

Now hold the grapevine ends together and wind them securely with the ribbon to close over the join. Then you're all done!

 

2. There are lots of different ways to decorate. For this one I chose a vintage flower with a short wire stem, and wired it to one side of the hat.

It's light, cool to wear for summer, and can be bent to fit your head over your hairstyle, even if it's a new way each time you wear it!

 

Of course you can trim it in so many ways. Here's one with the top covered with a floral branch.

 

It makes a great base for a veil.

And I want to try it as a hat frame, too, to be covered with lace or fabric and decorated.

But for now, it's a fun spring accessory (Period correct for 1950s costumes, too) and only takes about a half hour to make!

 

Till next time,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, etc.

 

February Tutorial - Mixed Media Retro-style Necklace

This month's tutorial departs a little from what I regularly post how-tos about. This necklace is not period correct, but it definitely has a vintage influence, and what is even better is it uses up vintage components which otherwise might go to waste. So it falls under the Repurposing category.

It is so simple anyone without beading or jewelry making experience can make their own with what's on hand, freeform style. It's feminine and helps to brighten up the dragging days of winter.

So here's how to make it.

 

You will need:

1/8 in. ribbon

needle and thread (I use quilting thread for extra durability)

vintage lace components or flowers (6 are shown)

small beads that coordinate with your beaded chain, 1 less than the amount of flowers (5 are shown)

18 in. beaded link chain

decorative toggle clasp that matches the metal of your beaded chain

needlenosed pliers

 

Supplies not shown are scissors and small barrel curling iron.

 

A few more words about supplies before we continue.

These flowers I'm using are cut from an antique crocheted doily that was in bad shape. There are many other types of lace you can incorporate for your own mixed media necklace.

They are sun-faded from a bright yellow to a soft pale yellow almost ivory. I had them in a drawer for a long time and wanted to put them to good use. I love them so much I have to post another picture.

The beaded chain I took off a too long necklace I bought at Cato, simply by opening a metal loop on each end of the strand. A vintage necklace could be used instead, or you can make your own beaded link chain with some wire, pliers and wire cutters, beads, and patience.

Now on to the instructions.

 

Making the Necklace

1. With needle and thread, sew the flowers or lace components together, using a small bead between each one.

Your needle will need to have a small eye. You should be able to pass back and forth from flower to flower, going through the bead, at least twice. Knot each end for security.

You'll have to sew on the tips/underneath edge of the flowers to hide your stitches.

Continue until all the small beads and flowers are strung together. I had 6 flowers and 5 beads.

 

2. With needle and thread, sew the large end of the toggle onto one end of the flower length.

 

3. For the other end, open a loop on one end of the beaded chain...

...and insert it in the other end of the flower strand.

Pinch shut. It's starting to look like a necklace.

 

4. Now it's time to make the rest of the necklace closure. About 3 in. from the free end of the beaded chain, open a loop...

...and in this loop you want to place the other end of the toggle clasp. Pinch shut.

Just below the toggle, take the free end of the 3 in. piece you skipped, open it with the pliers, and loop it up to join the toggle. Pinch shut.

So now you have a necklace with a closure and a dangling loop.

One word about the closure: take care that the beads you put the small toggle clasp beside are small ones so you can insert it through the large toggle clasp to close.

 

5. Now comes another mixed media touch. Cut 3 strands of ribbon, between 5-7 in. long.

Take them in the center and knot them under the small end of the toggle clasp.

Heat your small-barrel curling iron to at least medium heat. Then curl the ribbon ends.

The finished product:

Trim the ends if needed. That's it!

 

Styling the Necklace

As with most mixed media necklaces, this one can be styled different ways. Put the flowers on the side...

...or in the center.

While not period correct, it's perfect for retro hearted gals to wear with a vintage-style blouse and A-line skirt all year round.

There's lots of lovely detail to each angle.

 

I feel much better about hoarding little things that I don't need...until inspiration strikes. Enjoy making your own style of necklace!

 

Till next time...

~ Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio 

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, etc.