Verity Vintage Studio

Flower-Fringed 1940s Hat

The last few weeks have not been very productive, sewing wise. I was on vacation, then had crochet deadlines to meet, and anyway I wasn't really in the sewing mood. I did get a fun small project finished, though!

 

I've already made this hat from VaVoomVintage twice - a simple black version, and last year's Easter hat which I trimmed with a vintage veil and some paper flowers. These hats are so quick and easy to make, and very flattering. The simple base can be decorated a myriad ways. There are so many options, I'll have to make a lot more before I'm able to use all my trimming ideas!

 

This one was made in navy blue wool felt. I bent the top wire to give a little heart shape, just for fun. I think it adds to the 1940s silhouette. I could also wear it farther front on my head like a headband.

 

The trimming for this version was also in felt. I used small circles of the navy felt, and also a lighter shade of blue to make flowers to line the front edge.

 

These flowers were super easy. I started with a circle about 1 1/2 in. across, in the light blue felt, and one slightly smaller out of navy felt.

 

I snipped them around the edges to create fringed petals. I was not particular at all, so they are not even. You can't notice, so there's no need to stress out about getting each cut the same width and depth.

 

Stack them up and pinch them in half! I pinned them around the front edge to figure out how many I would need, then secured each flower with a few stitches in just the center, to allow the petals freedom to go a little wonky if they want.

 

I've seen similar hat trimmings on actual vintage hats from the era, so the overall appearance is very period correct. 

 

Just to show how versatile this hat pattern is, here's another one I made as a birthday gift for my sister. This one was trimmed across the front with a 1 1/2 in. strip of felt that was pleated evenly and sewn down with pearl beads.

 

This style of trimming is very 1950s, and you can see from the silhouette that it looks quite a different era from the blue one.

 

Very fun projects to add a quick accessory to a collection - both hats together took me 1 1/2 hours or less to complete. A refreshing change from elaborate or time-consuming sewing projects! I'll definitely continue to use this pattern. 

Tutorial: Make a Vintage Style Double Strand Faux Pearl Necklace

Ever had a hard time finding exactly the right color and length of pearls to wear with your vintage outfits? (Or anytime, for that matter.) Today I am going to show you how to make a double strand of pearls, just like the ones that were so popular in the 1950s.

 

You can use all the same size of pearl beads, or do a gradient strand with different sizes. I chose to use 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm pearls.

You will need:

flexible beading wire (I used nylon filament)

glass pearls

2 small 3-way connectors

4 crimping beads (not shown)

pliers

a clasp of some sort

Also scissors or something to cut the beading wire with.

 

Close up of the connectors.

 

Begin the Necklace

Cut 2 strands of beading wire a few inches longer than you think you will want. Take one end of one strand, pass it through a crimping bead, through one of the loops on the connector on the side where there are two, and back through the crimping bead.

 

Push the bead close to the connector but not right against it. Pinch the bead shut firmly with the pliers to secure the beading wire. Trim the wire close to the crimping bead.

 

Now you are ready to start stringing pearls. We will make the longest strand first. For this strand I used 5 4mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, 31 8mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, and 5 4mm pearls again.

 

You can hold it up to your neck to estimate if it is the right length. I wanted mine to nestle right at the base of my neck.

 

To finish the strand, take the remaining few inches of beading wire, pass it through the crimping bead, through one loop on the remaining connector, and back through the crimping bead again. Tighten it close to the connector but not too snug. It needs to have some wiggle room for the pearls to hang correctly. Pinch the crimping bead shut and trim the end like the first end.

 

First strand is finished!

 

The second strand will be the shorter one. It starts just like the first one. Once the beading wire is secure to the other loop on the connector, string your pearls, using a few less this time. For this strand I used 4 4mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, 29 8mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, and 4 4mm pearls again.

 

As you string pearls, curve the strand to get a better idea of how they will lay. The strands should be almost the same length if you want them to lie closely together on your neck.

 

Pass the remaining end of wire through the crimping bead, the opposite connector (be careful not to twist it unless you want a twisted strand of pearls), and back through the crimping bead. But before crimping the final bead, hold the necklace up to your neck to make sure it is how you like it. Then finish this end like the others by pinching the crimping bead and trimming the end.

 

It's almost finished! The only thing left to do is to attach the clasp. I used a barrel clasp for mine since the little hook on the end rotates. You can either attach each end directly to the third ring on the 3-way connector, or if you find that is too close to the connector to manipulate easily, add a small jump ring, which is what I did here with a 3 x 4 mm jump ring. Either way, you simply have to open and shut loops with your pliers.

 

The completed necklace!

 

My favorite strand of vintage faux pearls is a little too long for some of my dresses, so I needed one that hugs closely to the neck. This one is the perfect addition – and of course, I can make a longer one too if I need one. You can use beads other than pearls, if you prefer, and also use the same basic idea to make double or triple strand bracelets with the smaller pearls and shorter strands of beading wire; or omit the connector and do a single strand necklace, attaching it right to a jump ring or the loop on the end of the clasp.

 

So there you go – a quick and easy way to make your own vintage style faux pearls. They don't take that long to complete, and of course you can make them in any color or length desired for a particular outfit. I can't wait to wear mine!

January Tutorial - How to Make a Refillable Footwarmer

There's nothing like a foot warmer. On a cold night - and Idaho nights in the mountains can be cold! - it's incredibly comforting to snuggle your chilly toes into a deliciously warm spot down under the blankets when you crawl into bed. I used to enviously read in old novels the description of hot water bottles that were used as a matter of course when the weather turned frosty, and suffered with cold feet myself until I was researching hot water bottles and discovered the novel idea of foot warmers! I hate to wear socks in bed, and without the sloppiness of hot water bottles, a foot warmer like this one can be reused again and again, laundered and refreshed when needed, and keeps heat for more than an hour, without electricity. Plus you can make one in fifteen minutes - how handy is that?

 

You'll need...

8 1/2 x 25 in. piece of all natural fabric

sewing machine

cotton sewing thread

cotton string (crochet thread works great)

wide mouth funnel 

rice, corn, or oatmeal for filling

 

You want an all natural fiber because you don't want to put anything synthetic in the microwave. Believe me, you don't want to try it. So stick to 100% cotton fabric, like the retro printed quilting cotton I used, or something similarly completely natural like linen. You can cut it a different size if you want it shorter or fatter or longer for use in a wide bed. 

 

So, start with your rectangle of fabric - press it first.

 

Sew a narrow hem on each short side.

 

This is how it will look with the short ends hemmed:

 

Now French seam the long side together. To do this, hold it wrong side together (counterintuitive I know!) and run a 2/8 in. seam.

 

Turn it wrong side out and run a 3/8 in. seam to encase the raw edge. 

 

Now you have a tube that looks like this:

 

Turn it right side out:

 

The simplest part - use your cotton string (I use crochet thread to make sure it's 100% cotton) to bind one end a few inches from the end. 

 

Using your funnel, fill the tube with your choice of filling. I like the texture of oatmeal, but you can use shelled corn or rice. Each one has their fans. Any of them will have some scent after heating, so I like to mix in some dried lavender blooms with my filling. So when I take it out of the microwave it smells something like lavender porridge!

Tie off the other end and you're done! When you want to use it, microwave it 30 seconds at a time until you get it to your preferred temperature. Any time you want to launder it, or refresh your filling, just untie one end and dump out the filling. Super simple! 

 

 

And believe me, a warmer is so cozy to tuck against your back if you're not feeling well, or at your feet on a cold night. They are better to sleep with than electric heating pads because the heat gradually fades. But I find them long lasting enough.

 

That's all for this month's tutorial. Thanks for stopping by!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

 

December Tutorial - Crochet a 1940s Style Star Ornament

This month I designed a little crochet star ornament especially for my blog readers, inspired by pictures of 1940s aluminum star ornaments. It's the perfect way to add some vintage homemade specialness to your decorations this year.

 

For these ornaments I used Knit Picks' Curio, size 10 cotton thread. I can't say enough nice things about this thread. It comes in a gorgeous color palette (though limited), it's so soft to work with, and it comes in enormous yardage of 721 yards per ball. That's a huge amount of thread for your money!

 The pattern is written out below in standard American terms. But first, here are a few step-by-step photos to guide you through the process.

 

At first it looks nothing like a star!

 

Tightening the slip ring gives you 5 loops, like a flower.

 

After the first few rounds, it's starting to look like a star.

 

You could stop after Rnd 5. Nothing wrong with that. 

 

 

But like the icing on the cake, do one more round to emphasize the points and add a bit of trim.

Then the large star is done. You could easily add a chain loop for hanging before you fasten off. I prefer to use the less noticeable ornament hanger inserted through one tip, so omit a chain loop.

You could use this little fella all by himself, but there's more, just to add a little more with color fun.

 

 

 In another color, make this teeny tiny 2 round star, leaving a long end for sewing, and stack him on top of the large star.

 

 

Once he's in position, whipstitch him in place, all around the edge so his points won't curl. Weave in all the rest of the loose ends, and it's done!

 

You could starch the star if you want it super stiff, but if like me your stitches are tight, the star will hold his shape without starching. To get a perfect shape, mist it with water and pin it to your ironing board to dry, stretching out the points. 

 

So...without further ado, here's the pattern: 

 

1940s Christmas Star Ornament

Materials:

Knit Picks Curio size 10 100% cotton thread (721yds/100g per ball)

-a small amount of both Bluebell - 26273; and White - 26255

size 7/1.65mm steel crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

tapestry needle

 

Skill Level:

low intermediate

 

Gauge:

Not important - use a hook size small enough to get nice tight stitches with your thread.

 

Abbreviations:

ch=chain

dc=double crochet

hdc=half double crochet

lp(s)=loop(s)

sc=single crochet

sl st=slip stitch

st(s)=stitch(es)

yo=yarn over

 

Finished Size:

2 1/4 in. at widest point

  

Special Stitches:

dc3tog (double crochet three together)=yo, insert hook in same st as ch 2, draw up lp, draw new lp through 2 lps on hook, (yo, insert hook in next st, draw up lp, draw new lp through 2 lps on hook) twice, draw new lp through all 4 lps on hook

 

Large Star:

Rnd 1: With your main color, make a slip ring, (ch 7, sl st in ring) 5 times. Pull loose end of slip ring to close tightly. 5 lps

 

Rnd 2: sl st in next 2 chs of first ch 7 lp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, ch 1) in each ch 7 lp around; join with sl st in first sc. 10 sc, 10 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 3: ch 1, [hdc in next 2 hdc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch 1] around; join with sl st in first hdc. 30 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 4: ch 1, (hdc in next 3 hdc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, ch 1] around; join with sl st in first hdc. 40 hdc, 5 dc

Rnd 5: sc in each st around, working (hdc, dc, hdc) in each of the 5 dc; join with sl st in first sc. 45 sc

Rnd 6: sk first st with sl st in it, * sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, in dc work (dc, ch 2, sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st, ch 2, dc) sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in each of next 3 sts; rep from * around; join with last sl st in first sl st. Fasten off.

 

Small Star:

Rnd 1: Make a slip ring, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 1) 5 times in slip ring, join with sl st to first dc. 15 dc, 5 ch sps

Rnd 2: [ch 2, work dc3tog (see Special Stitches), ch 2, sl st in top of dc3tog, ch 2, sl st in same st as last dc of dc3tog, sl st in ch sp, sl st in next dc] around; join with sl st in first ch; fasten off, leaving a long sewing end. 5 points

 

Finishing:

Weave in all ends except long sewing end. With needle threaded on long sewing end, sew small star to center of large star. Block or starch if necessary.

 

I chose blue and white for these ornaments, but you could use endless combinations of red, gold, green, silver, ivory, rose, white...anything that takes your fancy or matches your decor. You could even do random bright colors and use up your odds and ends of thread. You can hang them alone or in coordinating pairs scattered over the tree, or go wild and make a whole bunch and thread them together to make a garland. 

So find your crochet hook, turn up some big band Christmas music, and get in the 1940s Christmas mood!

 

Happy crocheting!

Till next time,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

 

 

June Tutorial - How to Make an Earring Holder

This month's tutorial is a project easy enough that most of you have probably no need for a tutorial, but I was in a great need for an earring organizer and was so pleased with the result of this idea that I wanted to share it with you.

 

After trying several ways to sort my fishhook earrings, I couldn't find anything that really worked and knew that someday - when I had time - I was going to make a real earring holder. When I recently came upon a pair of white painted wooden large picture frames at a consignment store, I realized I would finally actually bite the bullet and make the organizer.

 

To make similar organizers, you will need:

picture frame(s)

craft paints (optional)

staple gun OR hot glue gun

fabric cut to a little larger than the frame openings

 

These frames were already white painted, and had little grooves. Nothing fancy, but cute.

 

I could have left them as is, but decided to have fun with some cheap acrylic paint. I'm not normally good at freehand, but was pleased with the way these turned out.

 

I put several coats of blue in the groove on the frames, then used toothpicks to do little flower adornments, reversing the colors and using a slightly different-yet-coordinating cheerful vintage style flower design for each frame, so that they could stand alone or be used as a set.

 

For the back, I used some vintage feedback fabric I had on hand. I like it because it is sturdy and heavy-grained enough to hold up well under a little weight and be pierced easily by the earrings. I used a staple gun and tried two ways of fastening the fabric rectangles, stretching them taut as I worked.

(You could also use a hot glue gun to secure the fabric to the frame - a little messier to work with but it wouldn't slide around on the staples...)

For this one I tried stapling it in the groove where the picture normally sits.

That laid the fabric right up against the frame, but it was much harder to work with.

 

For the second one, I just laid it flat and stapled it to the back of the frame.

 

That was a lot easier, but then you can see some of the unfinished frame between the white paint and the fabric...no big deal for me.

 

And there they are! Super easy and quick - quicker if you don't paint the frames.

 

Ideally the fabric should be zig-zagged or some sort of fray check put around the edges, but I didn't feel like it, so there it is. I like the way they coordinate without being identical.

 

And they worked just great for earrings, which was the main point.

 

Being picture frames, you can hang them singly or together, on a wall or door as practical home decor...

 

Or lean them up against something so you can page through them.

 

I filled 'em up! And now I have all my earrings easily accessible and can see what I have at a glance. A big improvement, and one more small detail of my life organized.

 

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, project journals, do-it-yourself vintage or alterations, etc.

Project Journal - Fabric Painting and 1940s Pumps

Not long ago on Ebay I garnered another gorgeous pair of 1940s heels for my collection at a great low price - and they fit! The shape is lovely, with classic 1940s styling and as always, beautiful detail.

 

But they needed some TLC. The seller said they needed a good cleaning, and they did. Originally a lovely off-white linen, they were grayish in tinge - more noticeable in real life than in the photos - and had multiple spots and bumps.

 

They also had, very faintly, a white design on the toe around the rhinestones and faux pearls.

 

I tried tracing it with a white coloring pencil, and while that helped a little, the design still wasn't noticeable from a distance.

 

So I set about restoring them. First, after looking up ways to clean fabric shoes, I tried a toothbrush and small amount of water and soap. That didn't work - only made the glue underneath show through in a yellowish circle.

 

So the next idea I had was fabric paint, since these are a linen-like fabric. After some research, I ended up purchasing 2 ivory shades of DecoArt's So Soft fabric paint, in hopes that one would be close enough to the original color - since that was the color I really wanted! It's so hard to find an off-white not too yellow or tan. But their Buttermilk was an almost exact match!

I put down a newspaper to cover my work surface and started painting. The fabric just ate up the paint, with a brush full doing only a square inch or so, but it adhered instantly and I could tell it was going to stay. I brushed in both directions following the grain for solid coverage.

 

The first heel done. See how it contrasts with the main shoe. And all those marks gone!

 

Here's the heel from the inside, with one half painted and one not.

 

Over the toe, I tried to work around the rhinestones, but usually got some paint on them anyway. But since this is fabric paint, it scratches right off the rhinestones.

After it dried a little - the paint dried very quickly for me - I tried the paint marker on the toe. The first half went well, but then the marker started acting up, so the rest isn't quite so nice. I think a ball-point would have worked better.

Here is the shoe with the design half done, next to the unpainted one. 

 

What a contrast! The painted shoe makes the unpainted one look all the dingier.

 

After that it was a quick matter to paint the other shoe - I gave each one only one coat of paint - then I left them sit overnight to dry completely, though they were dry to the touch in a very short time. I was so happy with the result! Plus, I can touch them up and make them look like new again if they get scuffed or marked with use.

 

 

I'm not an artist, so the designs have some unintended individuality. Especially since the marker was acting up. Maybe someday I'll repaint the toes and draw the design with a better behaved tool. 

 

But meanwhile they look so nice - almost like new - and are the perfect shade of ivory. Just what I wanted! My first trial with fabric paint is a definite success.

 

And the result is so very '40s! 

 

(I can't wait to pair them with my ivory-and-lavender Easter dress. Stay tuned for a photo later!)

March Tutorial - Dainty Butterfly Bow Mixed Media Earrings

It is snowing here and it seems winter will last forever. But after my recent winter-themed tutorials for wraps and furs, I was in the mood for something small and spring-ish. These dainty earrings help drive winter blues away!

 

Who doesn't need a little romantic touch with bronze and lace? If you're not used to making jewelry, don't worry - these are as easy as bending, opening and closing loops and making a needle go up and down. Here's how to make them.

 

You will need (for each earring):

filigree chandelier finding with 5 loops

matching metal earring wire

3 matching metal headpins

4 small round beads

2 small faceted beads

2 seed beads

1 in. lace scrap

needle and thread

wire cutters

needlenosed pliers

 

Before we get started, let's talk about the chandelier finding. I don't know the model number of this one since I got it in a mixed bag, but it should be easy to find something similar online or in your local craft store. It has 5 loops on the bottom and the filigree work gives me a base to sew later on.

 

And you will want 1 in. lace that has a finished edge on both sides; cut it to 1 1/2 in. long.

 

Putting it Together

1. Place a round bead on a headpin; with your wire cutters cut off the extra headpin leaving room to bend a loop.

 

2. Bend the headpin in a loop around one end of the chandelier finding.

 

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the other end.

 

4. Now place a round bead and a faceted bead on another headpin, trim off the extra...

 

5...and attach this loop in the center. It already looks cute, and of course you can stop here if you like, but there's more!

 

6. With your needle and doubled thread, tie a knot, and weave the needle through the center of the lace like this:

 

7. Draw it tight and bind the center to make a cute little bow. Twist it around so the unfinished edges are in the back and everything lies evenly.

 

8. Sew it securely to the chandelier finding. I used the center hole at the bottom and a space in the filigree just up from that for my sewing base. 

 

9. Before you fasten off your thread, sew a seed bead and a round bead with one stitch in the center...

 

...and a faceted bead and seed bead in another stitch. Knot it securely on the other side and fasten off.

 

10. All you have to do now is open the loop on the earring wire, insert it in the top loop, and pinch it shut.

 

Short and sweet!

Repeat steps 1-10 for the 2nd earring, making sure when you do step 9 you switch the position of the beads so they mirror the other. 

 

Of course you can use any color of beads or metal findings you wish, making it unique. I chose shades of brown and bronze and cream for a little Old World romantic feel.

 

Now don't you feel more like spring?

 

I'll be back with another tutorial next month. See you then!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, vintage, repurposing, etc.

 

Free Pattern for 1940s Style Crochet Double-Ruffle Brooch

As promised, here is the pattern for the 1940s style brooch I designed to wear with the Traveling Dress. Easy and quick, not only did it add the right touch of cream to tie together the look, it also filled in the V neckline for me. 

I used a seashell button to match the dress, but so many options are available with a variety of buttons to get your own special look or matching touch - ideal to showcase a fragile heirloom or vintage button you don't want to launder. 

Besides, crochet was very popular in the 1940s for accessories and garments, so it is perfectly authentic for costume wear. And cute to wear everyday.

 

1940s Style Double-Ruffle Brooch

(c) 2014 Kristen Stoltzfus

 

Materials:

approx. 10 yds size 10 cotton thread in cream color

size 7/1.65mm steel crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

tapestry needle

vintage button

1 in. pin back

spray starch

rust-proof pins

 

Gauge:

first 2 rnds= 1 ½ in. across

Skill Level:

easy

 

Finished Size:

3 in. across

 

Pattern Notes:

All rnds are worked RS facing.

 

Brooch:

Bottom Layer:

Ch 6, join with sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: ch 3 (does not count as first tr), (tr, ch 1) 23 times in ring; join with sl st to first tr. 23 tr, 23 ch sps

Rnd 2: sl st into first ch 1 sp, (ch 1, sc) in same sp, (ch 7, sc in next ch sp) around, ch 3, dc in first sc to form last lp. 23 ch lps 

Rnd 3: (ch 1, sc) in same st, (ch 6, sc in next ch lp) around, ch 3, dc in first sc to form last lp.

Rnd 4: rep Rnd 3

Rnd 5: (ch 1, sc) in same st, (ch 5, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, ch 3, sc in next ch lp) around; join with sl st in first sc and fasten off.

 

Top Layer:

Leaving long end for sewing, rep Rnds 1-3 of Bottom Layer

Rnd 4: rep Rnd 5 of Bottom Layer.

  

Finishing:

With needle threaded on long sewing end, center and sew top layer to bottom layer, sewing button to the top and pin back to the underside. Covering button, spray starch thoroughly and pin bottom layer to dry, lifting top layer and scrunching it so it ruffles a little and doesn't lie flat against the bottom layer. Let dry.

   

August Tutorial - Sew an Easy Retro Apron from a Dishtowel

I wear an apron all the time in the kitchen, and from the grease and stains that eventually covers it, it's evident that I like to wipe my hands on it! What better apron for wiping hands on than a dishtowel, more absorbent then fabric? So I created this easy retro apron from some vintage fabric and a checked dishtowel. 

 

You'll need:

1 dishtowel

small amount of contrasting fabric

scissors

pins

iron

ruler

white washable pencil color (optional)

sewing machine

 

I chose a vibrant colorful flowered vintage fabric to contrast with the purple checked dishtowel.

 

1. Measure your waist. Add 12 in. plus seam allowance. For instance, if your waist is 30 in., you'll need a piece of fabric 43 in. long or 30 in. + 12 in. + 1/2 in. seam allowance + 1/2 in. seam allowance. 

 

You can make your waistband as wide as desired. I wanted mine wide, so I doubled the fabric over and cut it at 4 in. wide, which with seam allowance take out leaves 3 in. for the finished width. Laid out flat that would be 8 in. wide.

 

The band cut out:

 

2. To prepare the waistband, fold up the seam allowance on the long sides and iron it.

 

Then fold the ends in and iron them.

 

Fold it in half lengthwise and press.

 

The pressed waistband, ready for sewing:

 

3. Next is to prepare the dishtowel. I like to put a bit of waist shaping in mine so it doesn't look like a rectangle wrapped around my waist. The easiest way to do this is to put a single wide box pleat in the center, like this:

 

However, I think a pleat looks too bulky at the waist on me, so I chose to do 2 darts instead. To do this, I measured from the center to where I wanted the dart on each side of the center.

 

I marked that spot with the pencil, then measured over 1 1/2 in. and put another pencil mark.

 

To find the tip of the dart, place the ruler against each dot slanted toward the middle and mark that spot.

 

To sew each dart, I held the top 2 spots together and angled the seam to end at the single dot in the center.

 

Now this is how it looks:

 

4. To add the waistband, center the side of the dishtowel with the darts in the center of the waistband and pin it. The dishtowel will be between 2 layers of waistband with the raw edges folded up.

 

5. Top stitch the ends...

 

...and across the open edge, which also stitches the dishtowel in place.

 

6. Now try it on and decide how far you want the ends of the waistband to overlap.

 

7. Choose your buttons and where to place them. I put mine too close together, as I realized later. But you learn by doing!

 

8. Make your buttonholes.

 

...and sew the buttons to correspond.

 

Now it looks like this:

Of course if you don't want pockets, you can let it as is, or add rickrack, lace, or other trim or appliques or embellishments. Since the dishtowel is hemmed, that's all there is to it. I want to do another one with several rows of baby rickrack at the hem and some vintage buttons for glam.

 

9. For this one, I chose to add a pocket. Instead of the usual square or rectangle pocket, I cut out a square and then rounded the corners to make a U shaped pocket.

 

10. I hemmed the top of the pocket and turned in the other edge and basted it.

 

11. Then I cut a 2 in. piece of narrow elastic and on the wrong side of the pocket, about 1 in. from the top hem, I stitched one end of the elastic in place:

 

Then I stretched out the elastic as I stitched, which created a nice gathered look.

 

Here's how it looks on the inside:

 

12. The last step is to choose where to put it on the apron - slanted or straight, low or high. Pin it in place.

 

13. Top stitch it on the curved edge, and pick out the basting stitches.

 

Give the apron a good press, and you're done!

 

Of course there are many varieties that could be made just by using different prints of dishtowels and contrasting fabric, other styles of pockets and trims. This one I kept simple, but it's fun to wear and more fun to think up how to create varieties!

 

Practical yet pin-up Retro - just how I like it!

Till next month,

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month.      Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, vintage themed, etc.

 

 

June Tutorial - Making Plain Heels into Titanic Era Court Shoes

Vintage shoes from the 1900s-1920s are hard to find in good shape and in modern sizes, so what to do when you want Period shoes for a Titanic or Downton Abbey costume? Shoes from that era were mostly similar in general shape, with lots of strap and toe detail. No sandals yet, but cut-outs, embroidery, multiple crossed straps, bows and buckles, and similar features on their high heels were all popular. The main distintive of shoes from this era is the heel shape. So when you're looking for costume wear, the first thing to look for is heels of the right shape.

 

I found these 1980s heels at a thrift store. Their heels are perfectly shaped. In the 1980s when throwback fashion was common, many styles of shoes were made with this kind of heel. The rest of the shoe doesn't look so Period, but the heel is great.

 

So I did an internet search for photos of shoes from the era - Edwardian-Titanic-Roaring '20s - I was hoping to copy. Most times the decorations were of the same material as the shoe, but I did find some with contrasting ribbon bows, which inspired this project.

Here's how to make costume-worthy court shoes out of an existing modern pair. Plus, with detachable brooches, make them to match any outfit and switch the colors whenever you feel like it!

 

You'll need:

1 pair shoes

1 1/2 in. wired gauze ribbon

3/4 in. matching solid ribbon

felt scraps

glue gun

brooch/pin backs

scissors

2 buttons (or more)

needle and thread (not shown)

 

Now, about the buttons. First I had intended just gluing a button to the front of each shoe, but since I am picky about matching metal tones, I didn't want to put a silver button on them in case I wanted to wear gold jewelry, and vice versa. That's when I had the idea of making them brooches, to be removable.

And there are no better buttons to use than La Mode's Vintage line. These are super great buttons for costume work, since they are copied from originals and each card is dated with the approximate era the buttons are from. These are circa 1860-1900, which is perfect for the style of shoe I'm working on.

 

Besides being unique and good quality, they are beautiful!

 

So, to begin.

 

Here's the starting place - the plain shoe toe.

 

1. Lay the wider ribbon across the toe, where you want it to end up. I chose wired ribbon for this because it would stay where I put it better and keep its shape, but you can use a soft ribbon.

 

The shoe is slanted and the ribbon will need to be too. So lay it across the top and and cut it along the sole on both sides, including an extra inch to roll up on each side.

 

2. Keeping the same slant, roll up the ends until the cut part is hidden.

Match it against the shoe to make sure the slant is right.

 

Fold up the tip that sticks out. Secure the whole edge roll with a drop of glue.

 

Repeat for the other side. Here's what it looks like now.

3. But because the end doesn't look very neat and we can't tuck it between the sole and upper as a shoe maker would have done if decorating it originally, take the narrow ribbon and wrap each end, keeping the slant the same. Secure with a drop of glue on the wrong side.

 

Here's what it looks like when finished:

 

4. Now lay it across the shoe and secure each end the whole way along, and one drop in the center to keep it in place.

 

5. To make the bow, just take a doubled piece of wide ribbon as wide as you want, and cut it to that length. 

 

 

Wrap the center with the narrow ribbon, to form the bow shape. Secure the narrow ribbon with a drop of glue on the back side where it won't be seen.

 

6. Glue the bow to the center of the ribbon on the shoe.

 

Repeat all the steps above for the other shoe.

 

Now to add the right silhouette to the shoe, we'll make detachable brooches with the buttons. There are two styles.

 

#1 Brooch - Plain

First I had La Mode's 170001703 buttons, which are a 1 in. cupped shank button in antique gold.

 

 

 

To make these into brooches, I cut rough circles of felt a little smaller than the button, with a slit in the center for the shank to go through.

 

I stacked 3 of them together with dots of glue between, and glued them to the button. This builds up the back and makes a place to glue the pin back.

 

I glued the pin back to the top of the button. 

 

Yet from the front it still looks like a plain button.

 

#2 Brooch - Ruffled

The other two buttons were La Mode 170001706, which is a flat-backed shank button...

 

 

...and La Mode 170001718, a flat button with 2 holes. Both of these I needed a backing for, which I did the same way.

 

Tie a knot in the thread end, and weave your needle through one side of the narrow ribbon, gathering it.

 

All you want is a circle, which may take about 5-6 in. of ribbon. Keep gathering it until when you pull the needle through and tighten the thread, it makes a ruffled circle, similar to a yoyo.

 

Secure it with a few stitches so it stays shut, then use the needle and thread to sew the button to the center front and the pin back to the back. This adds a nice soft ruffle outline the whole way around the button.

 

 

 

 

If you can sew them both on at the same time, so much the better. (I love short cuts. :-)

 

So there are your brooches, and they can be interchanged on the shoes depending on what style or color you want to accessorise with. And of course, worn separately as brooches on collars, lapels, handbags, hats, gloves, etc.

 

I loved the painted shell button brooches!

 

Styling:

I had to see what they looked like in costume, so here are some pictures of them with my Titanic skirt and accessories. Enjoy!

 

 

 

That's it for now. Till next month!

~Kristen - Verity Vintage Studio

 

Look for my new tutorials posted sometime during the first full week of every month. Hairstyles, crafts, repurposing, etc.