Verity Vintage Studio

A New Business Venture...Vintage Sewing Style!

It seems I always have something going on...and it's time to let you in on the latest project!

I've been working on setting up a new Etsy shop.

The Timely Tailor will feature curated fabric, kits & notions for the vintage seamstress!

 

We will offer carefully selected vintage-appropriate fabric by the yard with an emphasis on providing authentic prints suitable especially for dressmaking.

 

Our specialty will be taking some of that fabric and offering limited edition dressmaking kits which will include a vintage sewing pattern from Wearing History, with enough fabric and notions to make it! We take the pain out of ordering online. No buying fabric only to find you have no matching buttons. Or that you think you ordered the right color of thread and it turns out to be the wrong shade. 

We also will stock some thread and lovely little sewing notions. Some of them will be combined into various styles of hand sewing kits, so there will be something for everyone.

 

All of this is still in the pre-launch phase, but we are getting so close and I'm super excited! If you are interested in being the first to find out when we open, along with other shop news and updates, sign up for our email list here.

Quick & Easy Pullover to Cardigan Makeover for Christmas

Due to a crazy fall – deadlines, house renovation and moving, and a family loss – I have not sewn anything since the first week of October. This means I haven't even started on my Fall/Winter sewing list, and the winter is half over. But on the other hand, it also means I have enjoyed getting more wear out of previous makes. And also did more small projects, like turning this pullover into a cardigan.

 

This sweater is a duplicate in ladies' size of one my brother got last Christmas. I liked it so much I tracked down one for me, but when it arrived I wasn't sure if I wanted to try to shorten it to a more flattering length, or turn it into a cardigan.

 

It stayed on my mending/alteration rack for a whole year.

Just before Christmas when I was thinking about what to wear Christmas Day, I remembered this sweater. After some debate, I decided that I would get a lot more wear out of it as a cardigan, so here's how I altered it.

1. I matched the side seams (you can also measure & mark the center) and cut it down the center.

Next, I fused a 1” strip of fusible interfacing to the underside of each cut. I've tried making pullovers into cardigans before, but this is the first time I used fusible interfacing – and it makes a huge difference! It keeps the edges from fraying while you work, and keeps them from stretching out of shape.

 

At this point you could just fold over the front edge and hem it, but this sweater was already a bit small for me and I didn't want to take any extra fabric. So I sewed single fold bias tape to each raw edge, unfolding it all the way out and stitching along the fold line.

 

Next all I had to do was fold it in, tuck down the top and bottom edges, and hand stitch it. Catching just the underside of the knit makes an invisible seam.

 

All done! I could have added buttons and buttonholes at this point, but as I said the sweater was already tight for me, so an open front cardigan was best. I definitely would try the buttonholes for another project though to make it a true button-down cardigan.

 

There are lots of other ways to make pullovers into cardigans, including totally unpicking the seams and cutting it down if it's too large, or adding decorative stitches or trims to the front to hide your seams. This is just the way I did it for this one.

 

And as I anticipated, it gets a lot more wear as a cardigan. Already it's my go-to winter sweater.

 

I just love the vintage styling of the decorative yoke, while at the same time it looks festive for Christmas but not so Christmassy that I can't wear it for the rest of the winter.

 

So there's a quick and easy sweater refashion for the colder months! Next time when thrifting if you see a pretty pullover but you're a cardigan girl, you can go ahead and get it, having the confidence that you can turn it into a winter closet staple.

 

I may have a few other sweaters that need this treatment now that I know how fast and effective it is!

 

Mini Makeover: Decorating a Thrifted Blouse 1950s Style

Today's post is the last one of the photos I took while on vacation in Oregon in August. It's hardly worth calling a makeover, but I decided to go ahead and share the process even though it's a simple one, in case you need some easy inspiration for how to make a modern wardrobe more authentic.

 

It started with this striped cotton blouse that I found at the thrift store. It's a nice fabric and perfect for everyday. Also it had some cute details! But it looked too shirt-like for me, so I decided to dress it up.

 

It had a classic collar and yoke, both common elements in vintage styles, and while most vintage blouses are darted or tucked to be more fitted at the waist, the tuck-in style does exist. Also the cuffs were already cute!

 

So I took advantage of the double top stitching lines and made them more noticeable with some hand work. Just 2 colors of embroidery floss - running stitch around cuffs and collar edge, and some little bound bows on each pocket and sleeve. 

 

To make the bows, I just stitched long straight stitches back and forth, then bound it around the center with a contrast color. 

 

Just for fun, I reversed the colors for one bow only. This was inspired by all the quirky random novelty sweaters I saw on Pinterest.  But of course you could make them all match, or go with another style of embroidery entirely. There were so many possible options!

 

I also did a running stitch on the back yoke, to make the yoke more noticeable. 

 

I wore it the morning we did our train ride, and the train made such a lovely backdrop! I wish I had an old train car like this close by for photo shoots, but we can't have everything. :-) 

It's a nice casual 1940s or 1950s style that can easily cross back to modern if desired. Here I paired it with a skirt I made a while ago from a 1940s pattern, and of course my favorite white casual shoes from Rocket Originals. 

 

It's amazing how much more feminine the blouse is now with just the simple addition of some easy freehand embroidery. Someday I'd like to do something more elaborate, but for now this works just fine.

Though I remember now I had also intended to swap out the buttons for something nicer and totally forgot! But that's another great way to change a garment's style or make it more feminine, as well. 

 

So if you are looking for a cost-effective way to add more vintage to your closet, keep an eye out for classic styles at the thrift store - and add some little touches yourself. It's a great way to build your vintage wardrobe, make it entirely unique, and budget friendly too!

Transition to Spring: 1940s Chunky Knit Sweater

This blog post is a little different. It's not about anything I made, or even anything thrifted. Instead, I had to style a new sweater handmade by my sister, using a 1940s pattern.

 

Ever since seeing some of the lovely knits on Instagram, handmade from stunning vintage patterns, I've toyed with the idea of learning to knit so I can make some for myself. 

Well, quilting arrived and took over my new-hobby-learning-spare-time, so knitting will definitely have to wait, at least for now! But I happen to have a talented sister who knits (among other things) and actually likes to interpret old patterns (my personal dread), so I suggested she try some of the lovely vintage sweater patterns out there.

This was her first sweater, and it turned out lovely! 

 

She wanted to wet her feet with a quick and easy knit, and this pattern fit the bill - as well as having some interest in the shoulder detail to stretch her skills a bit.

 

I chose a bulky wool yarn in a lovely cornflower blue color, but I only had 3 skeins of it, so she made the sweater short sleeved instead of long sleeved. I like wearing short sleeves in the winter because I like something heavier, yet get too hot while working in long sleeves most of the time.

 

It has a crocheted finish and button band, and I found the perfect vintage buttons from my stash to finish it out.

 

The bulky weight made it a very quick knit - she made the whole thing in just a few days - and also is very size accommodating. The original pattern was quite a bit smaller size than I am, but since it has so much stretch, after adding a half inch or so onto the button band, it fits well enough. 

 

She enjoyed making it so much that she's intending to make more, in vintage-appropriate yarns and colors, to sell. You can currently find her on Instagram as @patternsofexcellence, if you want to see what she's up to. 

The shoulder detail is my favorite part!

 

I paired it for these photos with the skirt of my 2 piece summer suit from a few years ago - mix and match outfits for the win! Also my navy and white Peggy spectator pumps from Royal Vintage, which were a favorite purchase this past fall. It looks a bit more nautical-summery, but the sweater keeps it suitable for cooler weather like the early spring we are now enjoying.

 

I love how knits add texture to a vintage wardrobe - really ideal for dressing up in colder weather. It's completely accurate and period correct, yet we can enjoy the wider range of colors, fibers, and washability (not so fragile!) than actual vintage pieces.

 

There are so many lovely patterns out there, with amazing details and design elements, especially from the 1930s and 1940s when make-it-yourself creativity was at its height. I might have to take advantage of my sister's skills and order a few more in different styles, one of these days!

DIY Vintage Fashion - Thrifted Sweater Made 1950s

I beaded this sweater more than a year ago, and only now finally got around to taking photos of it! But I was more than happy with the way it turned out. 

 

What do you do when true vintage is too expensive, too hard to find in your size, or too fragile? Why, buy a modern piece and make it vintage appropriate! A few months ago I showed you how I took a modern sweater coat with some interesting elements and gave it more of a 1930s swagger coat makeover. This one is much less involved and even more period accurate, since sweaters in classic shapes really never go out of style and are still easy to find.

When I found this cardigan at a thrift store, I loved the color, and the lightweight 3/4 sleeve style is one I wear a lot in the winter. But it was very plain. So I decided it would be a perfect canvas to try a bit of beading and embroidery on. It languished for a while before I got the impetus to go ahead, but once I did, it went quite rapidly.

 

I looked up ideas on Pinterest first, of vintage 1950s sweaters or sweater ads. Once I found one I liked, I based my sweater beading on it, though I did end up doing some things differently - but it gave me a starting place. Honestly, with something like this, it's hard to go wrong - so many options would look great on it, and you can settle for a little bit of trim, or a lot. 

 

I chose to just decorate the neckline, but lots of cardigans were also decorated down each side of the front opening as well, or an all-over front embroidery, or a fancy deep hem embroidery. Like I said, the possibilities are endless.

 

I used some beads from my stash...3mm glass pearls because they are so classic and add a touch of contrast, and some deep purple iridescent seed beads, as well as using embroidery floss for the flowers on the front. I used a beading needle that would easily go through the hole in those tiny beads. I did not draw out the pattern, but you easily could if you want a more perfect pattern than just estimating by eye gives.

It's a bit different to embroider on a stretchy knit, but you just have to handle it carefully and try not to either pull threads too tightly or stretch it out as you bead. 

 

I was in a bit of a hurry to finish it, so I only made the deeper decoration on the front instead of extending it all around the neckline, but it still looks fine, though of course it would make more of a statement if the yoke decoration were wider. I can easily see how another repeat of the pattern as well would be quite stunning.

 

Sweaters were worn both for casual and dress in the 1950s, just like today. They could be worn belted or not - belts are quite handy to make a slightly too big sweater fit you at the waist, as well as a fashion statement. Often they were sold as matching sweater sets, but not always. They were also often worn with a turtleneck underneath, which is how I styled it here for a more casual look. 

 

I left the sweater buttons in place, but I could replace them with something else (pearl ones for instance) if I wanted to dress it up even more with a minimum of effort.

 

If you want to give this a try, find a simple, unadorned, classic cardigan with a thinner yarn rather than a chunky knit, preferably hip length and fitted at the waist (or you can wear a belt). Look up ideas, and go for it! Paired with a pencil skirt or a circle skirt and the right accessories, it can look completely suitable and accurate.

 

It makes a plain cardigan instantly classy, personalized, and feminine, and takes it from boring to special. It takes very little money (if you thrift, or use one you already have), and only a little time. All the charm of the vintage, with the easy care and fit of the modern.

And there are so many ideas of decorative combinations to try! I think more of these are in my future... 

Project Journal: Thrifted Sweater Coat Made 1930s

Something a little different this week! As the weather has turned chilly again, I've rediscovered how much I like sweater coats. They are less formal than jackets, longer and more versatile than regular sweaters, and especially nice for long car rides since they provide warmth for going in and out of the car, without the excessive heat and bulk of a long wool coat during the ride. 

I already own one and was happy to pick up two new ones recently. One was this lovely cream colored one, with quite a bit of cute detail. I especially liked the thin cotton yarn used (not a fan of acrylic if I can get cotton!) and the nubby texture, while the neutral color will go with anything!

 

I definitely saw possibilities in it, but it had some modern elements I didn't like so much - especially those huge, decorative shiny plastic buttons, and a random modern buckle on the neck.

 

I did some research, looking at 1930s swagger coats for inspiration of ways I could make this more me - more suitable for a vintage style wardrobe. After deciding on the route I wanted to take, I got started.

 

First off, those shiny plastic buttons and the buckle were removed.

 

Under each one was a small hole, probably put there by the factory to mark the button placement. I could have covered it by replacing with a vintage button, but I had a different idea. So each hole got a quick darn to close it. Thanks to the nubby texture of the knit, it camouflaged the darn pretty well.

 

Next, I tightened the back belt by folding a pinch of it and inserting through a vintage belt buckle. A common 1930s fashion element was a buckle in the back - and besides, it was a great way to tighten the belt without having to take out the side seams and cut the belt shorter. Instead of sewing it in place, I did use a safety pin to allow for versatility. This way I can swap out buckles when I want to. 

 

The sleeves got a quick hem since they had been too long when I tried it on. Just an inch turn-up made the fit much better.

 

I just love the slanted lines on the front - another perfect fit for the 1930s look I'm going for.

 

I had put some thought into the neck. Because the 1930s were big on collars and sleeves, often swagger coats had some sort of fancy element there. Since I was working with an existing sweater, I tried to think of a way to dress up the neck/shoulder area. I got inspiration from a photo, and purchased a Pashmina scarf for a few dollars online.

It was supposed to be ivory, but it is still much whiter than the sweater. Oh well, that way it will just coordinate with more colors. It's still all neutral.

 

I cut the scarf in half across the center of the width, and pleated it closely together, fastening the cut end of each half on the shoulder where it would be covered with the decorative tab already there.

 

The last step was to replace a button back on each tab - only a pretty vintage one this time!

 

While the finished sweater coat may not look completely 1930s, it's much closer than the more modern one it was originally. Therefore much more my style, and goes with my wardrobe better.

 

The scarf coming from each shoulder creates some versatility with ways to wear it, too. 

 

 

I paired it with a 1930s dress I made a long time ago that has issues, but is still a favorite, especially of my early projects. Also true vintage accessories in chocolate brown and burgundy.

 

(I hope these lovely autumn leaves last long enough for me to get a few more outfit photo shoots done! I love this time of year, yet I think we will get an early winter this year...so fall is not lasting very long, sadly.)

 

It only took a half hour to make this into a version I like - so much faster than making a new one! Just another reason to keep your eye open when thrifting for those classic styles (or vintage style elements) that give you something to work with. Think creatively, and it opens a lot of possibilities.

 

After all...you can't beat a 99 cent, half-hour swagger coat added to your fall wardrobe!

Quick & Easy Pattern Sizing (Not for Perfectionists!)

Over my years of blogging, I have had a number of inquiries about how I do my pattern sizing (or rather, pattern re-sizing), to take a vintage pattern that is too large or too small for my measurements, and make it fit. 

 

The most accurate method is the cut-and-spread method, where the pattern pieces are traced, slashed, and carefully, mathematically spread or overlapped in just the right way to make all the dimensions larger or smaller as needed. (A good tutorial for this method can be found here.)

However, as I have frequently stated on the blog, I am Not A Perfectionist, and that method is way too time consuming for me. I prefer a less accurate and much faster way, which I will show you here. I have used this for every pattern I have resized during years of sewing garments - most of the time with quite good results.

 

This method works best for only sizing up or down one size, but it can be used successfully for skipping multiple sizes with more care and trial-and-error.

Not every pattern works for this, however. You need one with a relatively simple back. My green plaid dress, for instance, would not work very well to resize because all those dart tucks on the bodice would need re-spaced, unless you added or subtracted exactly the right amount of fabric to take out or add one dart tuck.

 

Here are some more examples of patterns which do not work well for resizing without a lot more thought and work. The first one has evenly spaced darts and seams the whole way around the skirt. The second one also has a skirt yoke with evenly spaced points the whole way around.

 

Here are examples of patterns that are easy to resize. This one is very basic, with one back bodice piece (potentially a collar piece if you do the view with a collar) and one back skirt piece, all on the fold:

 

This one is also easy, though not quite so intuitive. It has a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam.

 

This one has more pieces, but as you can see, it is still easy since most of the back pieces - yoke, collar, bodice, and inset belt - are on the fold, while there is a center back seam on the skirt.

 

Resizing One Size Different

Ok, now. To size a pattern up two inches or one size, first look at your pattern instructions. Many of these old patterns have what they call "let out seams" which are deep seam allowances on the side seams. That may be all you need - if you sew a 3/4 inch seam allowance only 1/4 inch deep on each side, for example, that gives you your extra two inches right there.

If the let out seams are not a feature, or you need more than the extra room they provide, first look at the back sketch, which might be on the front or the back of the pattern envelope. If the back pieces (including facing) are to be cut on the fold, I simply lay each of them one inch off the fold. One inch doubled makes 2 inches added. 

 

To size a pattern down, I will lay each piece one inch overlapping the fold, which takes 2 inches out of the center back skirt and bodice.

 

Please note: I have not noticed any difference with dart placement on the front by doing this. Usually the difference between the dart placement for one size is very slight, which you can tell if you look at a modern multi-size pattern, and I have not had any problems with the front fit by adding or taking out 2 inches of fabric in the back. So I usually let all other pieces untouched when resizing one size up or down.

If one or both back pieces have a seam down the center, to size it up I simply add an inch to the center back seam. You can either measure and mark it, or just eyeball it as you cut if you trust yourself. So I would cut where my finger is, instead of where the edge of the pattern is. Make sure you pay attention to which is the center back seam for the skirt pieces, though, so you aren't adding it to the back side seams instead!

 

Many patterns have a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam, like some of the examples above. I would lay the back bodice piece (and facing) off the fold and cut the center back skirt seam an inch away from the edge of the pattern. To size it down, I would overlap the back bodice piece on the fold, and trim the center back skirt seam an inch narrower - where my finger is, on the photo below. The best way to do this is to cut and mark the other 3 sides of the skirt piece, then unpin the pattern piece and move it over one inch to cut the last seam - that way all your markings for that edge are also moved over and you get an accurate flare or curve.

 

Adding or taking away the same amount from all center back piece means that your darts and skirt seams should still match up - there is simply less or more fabric back there.

Keep in mind that ALL the back seams need to be the same, whether you are adding or subtracting. So if you have a pattern with an extended collar that meets in the back like this one, the collar seam on the FRONT bodice also needs to be added to or trimmed off - both on the front bodice piece and on the facing piece. 

 

I admit I often forget this one, and like for my gray rayon dress, ended up piecing the bodice collar and recutting the facing since that is on the top and is the piece you see when the collar is finished. 

 

If you have a Peter Pan collar, or some other type of collar that is not on the fold when the bodice is, you have to add the same amount to the back of the collar as you did to the fold of the bodice. Again, I usually cut part of it, then move the collar down an inch and finish cutting it; that way the curve remains correct.

In a nutshell, all additions or subtractions need to be the same, for all the back pieces. Just take some time to look over the pattern and recognize how many pieces need altered, and which ones need it on the seam and which on the fold. Usually at a minimum it will be bodice, back center skirt, and back facing (unless you are just using a bias facing strip, which you would simply cut a little longer).

 

Resizing Bigger Differences

Now, things get more complicated when you are sizing up several sizes, like doing a size 12 pattern for a size 16 or 18 measurements, like this 1940s summer suit I did last year.

 

As a general rule of thumb, I will not add or subtract more than 3 inches total to the center back. This means that if I need to size a pattern up 4 inches, I will lay the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches off the fold (1 1/2 inches doubled adds 3 inches total) or cutting 1 1/2 inches away from center back seams, and add 1/2 inch to the side seams when I am cutting it out. This would include bodice side seams, skirt side seams, and sleeve side seams. Also cuff side seams if the pattern has them. 

To size it down, I reverse the process, laying the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches overlapping the fold (or trimming from center back seams), and trimming 1/2 inch from all the side seams. 

If I am sizing up more than 4 inches, I will add up to 3 inches to the center back as previously described, then split the remaining inches and add that to the side seams. But the bigger the resizing, the riskier the fit is, and by this time there often is a significant difference in bust dart placement on the front, so it's best to do a trial version or a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

For my 1940s summer suit, I actually added too much fabric in, and had to add a 2nd dart to each side of the back to make it fit me. That worked since it was a jacket and didn't necessarily need to match up with skirt back seams like a dress might. But that's a risk when winging it to this extent without a muslin.

 

Also, altering a pattern 4 inches or more can create fit issues at the neck, sleeve tightness, and bust/waist ratio. My adjustable house dress here has fit issues at the neck since I took out too much of the yoke and back and didn't do a muslin first. If I do this pattern again, I will trim more off the side seams and take less out of the back yoke and center back panel.

 

This one I sized up about 6 inches, and it has sleeves that are a tad too tight for comfort since I didn't add quite enough on to them when cutting them out. Thankfully it is still wearable. Also it has interesting 2 part sleeve construction, which made me study which even were the right seams to add to the seam allowance!

 

I do generally have no issues at all when resizing only one size up or down, and that alone gives you a lot more freedom when buying patterns. If you are a size 16 for instance, now you can also buy size 14 and size 18, with no qualms. To do more than that requires more trial and error, but still can be done. Plus it is very quick and easy, requiring little extra time when cutting out a pattern, once you've thought through your changes.

Helpful? Clear as January mud? Let me know if you have any questions, or how well it works for you if you try it!

Verity Vintage Studio

Tutorial: How to Make 1950s Style Beaded Earrings

Anyone who likes to browse antique shops will recognize the popular bead cluster earrings from the 1950s. Often part of a matching set, they have a quintessential mid-century look. Because of their size and bulk, many of them are clip-ons and too heavy to work well converted to pierced. But no fear! Now you can make your own, in your preferred colors!

 

For this project you will need:

2 large bead caps (I used 25mm size of a generic style easily found in craft stores)

beading needle

beading string (similar to fishing line)

beads

hammer

2 earring posts

metal-bonding glue like E-6000

 

How To

On a surface that you can't scratch, carefully use the hammer to flatten out the bead caps. They won't be perfectly flat, but as you can see, the inner edge is flattened down, and the outer edge is flattened out.

 

The difference:

 

This makes the base for your earring. (I'm sure there are bases out there that are actually made for this, but I found bead caps to work well and be very inexpensive, plus common to access.)

With your beading thread on your needle, tie the other end through the bead cap. Now you are ready to start beading.

 

Start by sewing down beads the whole way around the bead cap. I found the best results by going up and down in the same hole. I used 3mm glass pearl beads because I wanted a daintier earring, but you can certainly use larger beads and not sew one in each hole if necessary. In general, small beads will work best.

 

There will be spaces between them - that's ok. You'll fix it later.

 

Now move to the center and do another circle of beads. They won't all fit in a tidy ring, but start "clustering".

 

At this point, you may wish to add an extra bead here or there in order to make a tight cluster that hides the bead cap. Try to add them evenly and not all on one side, or your earring will grow lopsided.

 

For the center, I used a 6mm glass pearl. Make sure to turn it so the side is facing instead of the end with the hole.

 

Next, go back and tighten any loose beads by adding another stitch through them. Knot your beading thread and weave it through the ends of some of your stitches before cutting it off. You don't want to cut it too close to the knot.

Make the 2nd earring, trying to keep the number of beads the same so they end up the same size.

 

Turn them over and glue an earring post to the back of each one. 

 

That's it! Leave them to dry overnight, and the next day you can put on the earring backs and wear them.

I used all one color, but you can mix colors too! Here is a set I made earlier, with mixed sizes, colors, and textures of beads. There are endless options out there!

 

These could coordinate perfectly with my two-strand pearl necklace, if you need a matching set!

 

My new pearl bead cluster earrings side-by-side with true vintage 1950s bead cluster earrings. It's nice to be able to make a new, authentic-looking pair in a particular color any time I need to!

Flower-Fringed 1940s Hat

The last few weeks have not been very productive, sewing wise. I was on vacation, then had crochet deadlines to meet, and anyway I wasn't really in the sewing mood. I did get a fun small project finished, though!

 

I've already made this hat from VaVoomVintage twice - a simple black version, and last year's Easter hat which I trimmed with a vintage veil and some paper flowers. These hats are so quick and easy to make, and very flattering. The simple base can be decorated a myriad ways. There are so many options, I'll have to make a lot more before I'm able to use all my trimming ideas!

 

This one was made in navy blue wool felt. I bent the top wire to give a little heart shape, just for fun. I think it adds to the 1940s silhouette. I could also wear it farther front on my head like a headband.

 

The trimming for this version was also in felt. I used small circles of the navy felt, and also a lighter shade of blue to make flowers to line the front edge.

 

These flowers were super easy. I started with a circle about 1 1/2 in. across, in the light blue felt, and one slightly smaller out of navy felt.

 

I snipped them around the edges to create fringed petals. I was not particular at all, so they are not even. You can't notice, so there's no need to stress out about getting each cut the same width and depth.

 

Stack them up and pinch them in half! I pinned them around the front edge to figure out how many I would need, then secured each flower with a few stitches in just the center, to allow the petals freedom to go a little wonky if they want.

 

I've seen similar hat trimmings on actual vintage hats from the era, so the overall appearance is very period correct. 

 

Just to show how versatile this hat pattern is, here's another one I made as a birthday gift for my sister. This one was trimmed across the front with a 1 1/2 in. strip of felt that was pleated evenly and sewn down with pearl beads.

 

This style of trimming is very 1950s, and you can see from the silhouette that it looks quite a different era from the blue one.

 

Very fun projects to add a quick accessory to a collection - both hats together took me 1 1/2 hours or less to complete. A refreshing change from elaborate or time-consuming sewing projects! I'll definitely continue to use this pattern. 

Tutorial: Make a Vintage Style Double Strand Faux Pearl Necklace

Ever had a hard time finding exactly the right color and length of pearls to wear with your vintage outfits? (Or anytime, for that matter.) Today I am going to show you how to make a double strand of pearls, just like the ones that were so popular in the 1950s.

 

You can use all the same size of pearl beads, or do a gradient strand with different sizes. I chose to use 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm pearls.

You will need:

flexible beading wire (I used nylon filament)

glass pearls

2 small 3-way connectors

4 crimping beads (not shown)

pliers

a clasp of some sort

Also scissors or something to cut the beading wire with.

 

Close up of the connectors.

 

Begin the Necklace

Cut 2 strands of beading wire a few inches longer than you think you will want. Take one end of one strand, pass it through a crimping bead, through one of the loops on the connector on the side where there are two, and back through the crimping bead.

 

Push the bead close to the connector but not right against it. Pinch the bead shut firmly with the pliers to secure the beading wire. Trim the wire close to the crimping bead.

 

Now you are ready to start stringing pearls. We will make the longest strand first. For this strand I used 5 4mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, 31 8mm pearls, 7 6mm pearls, and 5 4mm pearls again.

 

You can hold it up to your neck to estimate if it is the right length. I wanted mine to nestle right at the base of my neck.

 

To finish the strand, take the remaining few inches of beading wire, pass it through the crimping bead, through one loop on the remaining connector, and back through the crimping bead again. Tighten it close to the connector but not too snug. It needs to have some wiggle room for the pearls to hang correctly. Pinch the crimping bead shut and trim the end like the first end.

 

First strand is finished!

 

The second strand will be the shorter one. It starts just like the first one. Once the beading wire is secure to the other loop on the connector, string your pearls, using a few less this time. For this strand I used 4 4mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, 29 8mm pearls, 6 6mm pearls, and 4 4mm pearls again.

 

As you string pearls, curve the strand to get a better idea of how they will lay. The strands should be almost the same length if you want them to lie closely together on your neck.

 

Pass the remaining end of wire through the crimping bead, the opposite connector (be careful not to twist it unless you want a twisted strand of pearls), and back through the crimping bead. But before crimping the final bead, hold the necklace up to your neck to make sure it is how you like it. Then finish this end like the others by pinching the crimping bead and trimming the end.

 

It's almost finished! The only thing left to do is to attach the clasp. I used a barrel clasp for mine since the little hook on the end rotates. You can either attach each end directly to the third ring on the 3-way connector, or if you find that is too close to the connector to manipulate easily, add a small jump ring, which is what I did here with a 3 x 4 mm jump ring. Either way, you simply have to open and shut loops with your pliers.

 

The completed necklace!

 

My favorite strand of vintage faux pearls is a little too long for some of my dresses, so I needed one that hugs closely to the neck. This one is the perfect addition – and of course, I can make a longer one too if I need one. You can use beads other than pearls, if you prefer, and also use the same basic idea to make double or triple strand bracelets with the smaller pearls and shorter strands of beading wire; or omit the connector and do a single strand necklace, attaching it right to a jump ring or the loop on the end of the clasp.

 

So there you go – a quick and easy way to make your own vintage style faux pearls. They don't take that long to complete, and of course you can make them in any color or length desired for a particular outfit. I can't wait to wear mine!