Verity Vintage Studio

Quick & Easy Pattern Sizing (Not for Perfectionists!)

Over my years of blogging, I have had a number of inquiries about how I do my pattern sizing (or rather, pattern re-sizing), to take a vintage pattern that is too large or too small for my measurements, and make it fit. 

 

The most accurate method is the cut-and-spread method, where the pattern pieces are traced, slashed, and carefully, mathematically spread or overlapped in just the right way to make all the dimensions larger or smaller as needed. (A good tutorial for this method can be found here.)

However, as I have frequently stated on the blog, I am Not A Perfectionist, and that method is way too time consuming for me. I prefer a less accurate and much faster way, which I will show you here. I have used this for every pattern I have resized during years of sewing garments - most of the time with quite good results.

 

This method works best for only sizing up or down one size, but it can be used successfully for skipping multiple sizes with more care and trial-and-error.

Not every pattern works for this, however. You need one with a relatively simple back. My green plaid dress, for instance, would not work very well to resize because all those dart tucks on the bodice would need re-spaced, unless you added or subtracted exactly the right amount of fabric to take out or add one dart tuck.

 

Here are some more examples of patterns which do not work well for resizing without a lot more thought and work. The first one has evenly spaced darts and seams the whole way around the skirt. The second one also has a skirt yoke with evenly spaced points the whole way around.

 

Here are examples of patterns that are easy to resize. This one is very basic, with one back bodice piece (potentially a collar piece if you do the view with a collar) and one back skirt piece, all on the fold:

 

This one is also easy, though not quite so intuitive. It has a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam.

 

This one has more pieces, but as you can see, it is still easy since most of the back pieces - yoke, collar, bodice, and inset belt - are on the fold, while there is a center back seam on the skirt.

 

Resizing One Size Different

Ok, now. To size a pattern up two inches or one size, first look at your pattern instructions. Many of these old patterns have what they call "let out seams" which are deep seam allowances on the side seams. That may be all you need - if you sew a 3/4 inch seam allowance only 1/4 inch deep on each side, for example, that gives you your extra two inches right there.

If the let out seams are not a feature, or you need more than the extra room they provide, first look at the back sketch, which might be on the front or the back of the pattern envelope. If the back pieces (including facing) are to be cut on the fold, I simply lay each of them one inch off the fold. One inch doubled makes 2 inches added. 

 

To size a pattern down, I will lay each piece one inch overlapping the fold, which takes 2 inches out of the center back skirt and bodice.

 

Please note: I have not noticed any difference with dart placement on the front by doing this. Usually the difference between the dart placement for one size is very slight, which you can tell if you look at a modern multi-size pattern, and I have not had any problems with the front fit by adding or taking out 2 inches of fabric in the back. So I usually let all other pieces untouched when resizing one size up or down.

If one or both back pieces have a seam down the center, to size it up I simply add an inch to the center back seam. You can either measure and mark it, or just eyeball it as you cut if you trust yourself. So I would cut where my finger is, instead of where the edge of the pattern is. Make sure you pay attention to which is the center back seam for the skirt pieces, though, so you aren't adding it to the back side seams instead!

 

Many patterns have a back bodice piece on the fold and a center back skirt seam, like some of the examples above. I would lay the back bodice piece (and facing) off the fold and cut the center back skirt seam an inch away from the edge of the pattern. To size it down, I would overlap the back bodice piece on the fold, and trim the center back skirt seam an inch narrower - where my finger is, on the photo below. The best way to do this is to cut and mark the other 3 sides of the skirt piece, then unpin the pattern piece and move it over one inch to cut the last seam - that way all your markings for that edge are also moved over and you get an accurate flare or curve.

 

Adding or taking away the same amount from all center back piece means that your darts and skirt seams should still match up - there is simply less or more fabric back there.

Keep in mind that ALL the back seams need to be the same, whether you are adding or subtracting. So if you have a pattern with an extended collar that meets in the back like this one, the collar seam on the FRONT bodice also needs to be added to or trimmed off - both on the front bodice piece and on the facing piece. 

 

I admit I often forget this one, and like for my gray rayon dress, ended up piecing the bodice collar and recutting the facing since that is on the top and is the piece you see when the collar is finished. 

 

If you have a Peter Pan collar, or some other type of collar that is not on the fold when the bodice is, you have to add the same amount to the back of the collar as you did to the fold of the bodice. Again, I usually cut part of it, then move the collar down an inch and finish cutting it; that way the curve remains correct.

In a nutshell, all additions or subtractions need to be the same, for all the back pieces. Just take some time to look over the pattern and recognize how many pieces need altered, and which ones need it on the seam and which on the fold. Usually at a minimum it will be bodice, back center skirt, and back facing (unless you are just using a bias facing strip, which you would simply cut a little longer).

 

Resizing Bigger Differences

Now, things get more complicated when you are sizing up several sizes, like doing a size 12 pattern for a size 16 or 18 measurements, like this 1940s summer suit I did last year.

 

As a general rule of thumb, I will not add or subtract more than 3 inches total to the center back. This means that if I need to size a pattern up 4 inches, I will lay the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches off the fold (1 1/2 inches doubled adds 3 inches total) or cutting 1 1/2 inches away from center back seams, and add 1/2 inch to the side seams when I am cutting it out. This would include bodice side seams, skirt side seams, and sleeve side seams. Also cuff side seams if the pattern has them. 

To size it down, I reverse the process, laying the pattern pieces 1 1/2 inches overlapping the fold (or trimming from center back seams), and trimming 1/2 inch from all the side seams. 

If I am sizing up more than 4 inches, I will add up to 3 inches to the center back as previously described, then split the remaining inches and add that to the side seams. But the bigger the resizing, the riskier the fit is, and by this time there often is a significant difference in bust dart placement on the front, so it's best to do a trial version or a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

For my 1940s summer suit, I actually added too much fabric in, and had to add a 2nd dart to each side of the back to make it fit me. That worked since it was a jacket and didn't necessarily need to match up with skirt back seams like a dress might. But that's a risk when winging it to this extent without a muslin.

 

Also, altering a pattern 4 inches or more can create fit issues at the neck, sleeve tightness, and bust/waist ratio. My adjustable house dress here has fit issues at the neck since I took out too much of the yoke and back and didn't do a muslin first. If I do this pattern again, I will trim more off the side seams and take less out of the back yoke and center back panel.

 

This one I sized up about 6 inches, and it has sleeves that are a tad too tight for comfort since I didn't add quite enough on to them when cutting them out. Thankfully it is still wearable. Also it has interesting 2 part sleeve construction, which made me study which even were the right seams to add to the seam allowance!

 

I do generally have no issues at all when resizing only one size up or down, and that alone gives you a lot more freedom when buying patterns. If you are a size 16 for instance, now you can also buy size 14 and size 18, with no qualms. To do more than that requires more trial and error, but still can be done. Plus it is very quick and easy, requiring little extra time when cutting out a pattern, once you've thought through your changes.

Helpful? Clear as January mud? Let me know if you have any questions, or how well it works for you if you try it!

Verity Vintage Studio

New Sewing Horizons

No fashion post today...I'm too close to my due date to make any more maternity clothes, and the few clothes I've made for afterwards of course can't be photographed yet! I am happy to report that most of my non-maternity maternity makes this year still fit and have been getting a lot of wear.

That doesn't mean I haven't been busy making things, however. I'm between crochet deadlines right now, so while I'm waiting for the materials to arrive for my next designs, I have been doing some little stitchery things. It's been years since I've done any ribbon embroidery or cross stitch, but I really enjoyed both again. Definitely a good idea to do something different once in a while!

 

But my sewing has been far from standing still just because I have no garments to show you at the moment. A little while ago, I wanted to order some fabric from mybluprint.com (formerly Craftsy) and because I could get a better deal by taking out a subscription for a month, I did that. I didn't really expect to do much class watching, but thought since I could do it for the next month I might as well see if anything caught my eye.

The first thing that did was Susan Stewart's heirloom sewing technique classes, which I ended up watching at least part of several times. They are so well done, and just amazing! I never thought I would be interested in heirloom sewing - and I guess I still am not in the sense of making those intricate little girl's dresses so popular in the '90s - but I sure can see multiple ways to incorporate some of those same techniques in my own sewing and vintage style! It looks so very difficult, but really, most of it is super easy when broken down into steps, and can be done on the machine. I highly recommend those classes. As a result, I promptly looked for some twin needles and a slant shank pin tuck foot for my machine, so I can sew pin tucks and tiny piping. Also I bought some water soluble stabilizer for the first time, which is a fun little thing to work with. 

 

I experimented with these new tools by practicing several of Susan's techniques on a 1940s blouse (shown in progress below), which I can't wait to wear and show you after I'm normally sized again. And I have to say I'm hooked. I'm so excited to have the know-how for various types of lace insertion, pin tucks, mini piping, and other fun stuff I normally would never have attempted. Plus it's actually pretty easy.

 

Then I also watched a class on pattern drafting from an existing garment. The teacher actually used a New Look era jacket style blouse as an example. I don't know how much I will do this, but I'm glad to have a basic idea of how to, if I need to. A perfect way to copy a vintage garment into a less fragile fabric, or another color, for example. As a result of that class, I ordered some dressmaking rulers in case I ever need them, and some quilting rulers too since they are so versatile.

 

I watched a class on neckline and seam finishes, and ended up trying out fusible interfacing for the first time. That may seam like a no-brainer to most of you, but you have to remember that I learned sewing from my mother, who only used very basic tools. She did not enjoy sewing, though she is quite good at it and can make multiple looks from one base pattern - something I don't even want to attempt! I only started using any sort of interfacing more recently, and since I knew nothing about the confusing bolts in the store with so many options, weights, and names, I stuck with using muslin for interfacings. Well, now that I've discovered I can interface collars and things without it sliding around - I'm never looking back!

 

But the real revolution happened with another type of sewing altogether.

Lauren of Wearing History, whom I follow on Instagram, posted about how much she has enjoyed the slow process and precise work of English Paper Piecing since being recently introduced to it. I had heard of EPP before, but knew nothing about it. What she wrote interested me enough that I looked it up, and while I was intrigued, there was a level of tedium in all the card cutting and basting and removing basting thread and cards that I thought I probably wouldn't enjoy. But I went ahead and watched a class on EPP, since I could.

Well, the class was taught by Helen Stubbings, an Australian designer who had invented an alternative to the traditional paper cards, by using fusible paper templates that were half water-soluble and half stabilizer, so they didn't need to be removed after the project. That sounded like a perfect happy medium for me! The templates are fused on, keep the little shapes precise (something I could never do on my own because I am not a perfectionist), yet you can just glue the fabric around them, sew the little shapes together, and move right on to your appliqué or quilting. The perfect blend of slow work and quick work for me, though I can definitely see how the traditional method would appeal to some. While I don't think I would tackle a whole quilt (mostly because I really dislike the finish work of binding and quilting), I could think of a lot of ways to play with appliqués made from these shapes. You will likely see some in the very near future - though don't expect this to turn into a quilting blog!

 

Of course I jumped in, ordered some of her paper templates, and as soon as the first ones arrived I made a little project to wet my feet. It was super fun! The hexagons are actually not my favorite shape out there, and I'm picky about what patterns I like since I'm not a fan of the really scrappy look, but I am super excited for the rest of the shapes to arrive so I can play with them. I have quite a few ideas already. I certainly shouldn't have to buy fabric except for special projects, so the templates will be my only expense. Only now I can't even throw away the smaller scraps when I'm cutting out a dress, so I really will be inundated with leftovers!

 

This potholder I made with her 1" hexagon templates assembled by hand, appliquéd by machine using the blind-hem stitch (super easy and quick), and then the background fabric cut out in a circle. I fused interfacing to the back (see how I like to play with my new tools!) and edged it with rickrack before putting the back on. It took maybe a couple of hours to make, and is so cute and cheery! 

 

So as you can see, my horizons have really expanded this month to include all sorts of new techniques. It was definitely worth the $8 I paid for a month's access, especially since I also got a major discount for signing up, and their membership price discounts through the month of July to get fabric with. Now I have to decide if there are enough other classes that interest me enough to pay for another month or not, but as it is, I should have plenty to keep me busy going forward!

For the Vintage Blogger: 9+ Tips to Create Quality Photos

Blogging has been a journey for me. It started out as a place for me to write about and share my hobbies, many of which were craft and/or vintage related. Once I learned how to sew, however, it rapidly became more of a sewing/fashion blog (though I keep the door open for variety when the urge strikes to write about something else). A fashion blog meant I suddenly was in front of the camera, instead of behind it. And as a self-conscious, awkward teen I had no clue how to do that!

A very, very early sewing project (the skirt) and the best of one of my first ever tries at posing while someone else took pictures.

 

I laugh or cringe at some of my early photos and posts now, and of course, there were many, many pictures that mercifully never made it to the blog. I've also learned so much about how to model fashion (I'm mostly talking about vintage fashion here), so I hope to share out of my experience a few things I've learned that may help someone else newly starting out, or struggling with trying to make their photos and modeling more attractive and professional.

There are so many types of vintage bloggers out there, each with their own style. While I admire the stunning photos of professional models in exotic locations or with amazing photo props and editing, I'm writing more to the folks who have a hobby they want to share, but no experience with what transfers pleasingly to the photo frame, and limited access to tools and backgrounds. Some ladies can do the exaggerated poses of a professional model and look dreamy instead of ridiculous, but many of us are not blessed with that talent - appearing happy and pleasant in everyday surroundings is our strong suit. 

This is probably as close as I'll get to looking dreamy and sophisticated! :-D 

 

So here are some tips I've come up with during my own blunders and experiments. Perhaps some of these are pretty obvious, but I include them in case they may be helpful to anyone who may be as clueless as myself when I began. I don't really list them in order of importance, and some may overlap.

(Please keep in mind I am not a professional and still have a lot to learn when it comes to photography, modeling, and photo editing!)

Finding the style and colors that suit you best, and how to accessorize them, is a separate issue and not in the perimeters of our discussion today. So, you have your beautiful outfit on, hair and makeup done, and you're ready to go. What's next?

 

1) Know Yourself

 Do a little self analysis. Which expression do you like best on your face - smiling, or pensive? I, for instance, almost never like myself in candid shots, and think my completely relaxed face looks akin to a sleepy sheep. :-)  Hopefully not so much in real life - but there is so much difference between the fluid movements and expressions of real life, and a frame captured and frozen in time. For me to be happy with photos of myself, I need to wear lipstick, and be posed with a smile or pleasant expression. On the other hand, if you don't like your smile - don't smile in pictures.

What are you sensitive about? Profile? Waistline? Height? There are tricks to minimizing each of these. If you don't like your profile, make sure that you don't present the side of your face straight on, but are always looking slightly over your shoulder toward the camera.

 

(Keep in mind that for tutorials, like how-to hairstyle step by step photos, you will need well lit photos of all angles, flattering or not. And that works fine for readers because they are concentrating on the method being taught, not the art of presentation.)

An always flattering angle to the waist is to take photos slightly from one side or the other instead of straight on with your front flat toward the camera. And if height is an issue, don't take photos beside items that can serve as a scale - a plain wall background or a woodland trail (if it's not too dark), for instance, or even a seated position, will suit better than beside a chair or another person. 

Notice how in the top photo my waist looks smaller than in the bottom photo.

 

Many of the models you see in black and white photos from the 1930s, etc, are actually not that beautiful if you look at them critically. They might have a nice feature which they know how to make the most of, are impeccably dressed in the right sort of clothes for their body type, are poised and confident, and can look absolutely stunning and glamorous as a result. Many ladies who are not so-called pretty can definitely still be glamorous and elegant!

 

2) Best Foot Forward

One thing you will see a lot of in vintage ads and model photos is that always, always for a full-length shot one foot is angled in some way (usually the foot toward the camera). It just looks more pleasing than with both feet flat on the ground and even with each other. Compare the photos below.

 

3) Backgrounds and Lighting

This is one I still struggle with, being a backyard photographer with a limited amount of backgrounds (all country themed) - especially in rainy weather! A background should ideally be somewhat suitable with your outfit, if possible, and simple enough to not distract from your outfit. It can add a lot to your photos or simply be a relief to make you stand out clearly.

If you are taking photos in front of trees or bushes, tell your photographer to make sure that you don't have a tree branch growing out of your head! :-)

  

A simple, weathered, shaded wall in a neutral is often a really good background that suits pretty much anything, if you're lucky enough to have one and it's in the shade when you are ready to take pictures.

 

For someone like myself, to dress up and drive 20 minutes or more to town, with a toddler, just to take pictures is not likely to happen. But on the other hand, if I know I am going someplace that would make a good backdrop - like a park or hike - it often works to plan an outfit you want photos of, and carry along your accessories and lipstick. You can wear them just long enough for pictures if necessary, without making a special trip.

I knew that we would be touring Glen Eyrie Castle while on vacation this summer, so I wore a new dress and brought along accessories.

It was such a beautiful backdrop!

 

Light is so, so important. Don't take pictures in full sunlight, or in strongly dappled shade. But for really good photos without a lot of editing, you need natural light. If you need to take work-in-progress or detail photos, always do it in the daylight close to a window rather than under a lightbulb. If you stand in the shade (like under a tree) with strong sunlight behind you, either the background will wash out or you will be too dark. Often either the morning or the late afternoon is the best time for taking pictures, because the light is more mellow and since it's not directly overhead, you are more likely to find stretches of shade.

Here you can see that the background was too bright and as a result, I was too dark.

This improved once I moved to  a spot with shade in the background, but I had to be careful of sun spots.

A few on the skirt were ok- not a bright circle on the forehead or nose! :-)

4) Variety

A blog post will look best if it has photos from a variety of angles and distances. What I often like to do is rotate slowly in front of the camera while my sister takes full-length photo shots (meanwhile I pay attention to the position of my feet), and then rotate again as she takes photos that are more hip length. To finish, we might do some head and shoulder shots from several angles, and then close-ups of any detail on the outfit, or accessories. Meanwhile I also use a variety of expressions, and look both at the camera and away from it. To have this variety (of course you can crop some afterwards if necessary) makes a nice selection of poses so you don't have the exact same expression or angle for all shots.

Taking photos from many angles can help you be able to select the most becoming one later. Admittedly, sometimes it's only the best out of not very good options.

Photo props can be a nice addition, if they don't distract from your outfit, and can really take your photos a step up. Even if it's just a chair or bench, it adds visual interest and gives you more options with poses.

I had my chin tucked in too far - double chin alert! The next one was a much nicer angle.

 

A few more modeling tips...

Photos from the back often look best with your chin up so your hair nestles against your shoulders. Otherwise, you'll look a little hunchback and your head will be out of proportion because it's too far forward. 

Selfies are fine for Instagram "real moment in real life" photos, but preferably to be avoided for blog posts if you want to up your game.

If you are doing a contemplative pose and looking down, don't look down too far or you'll look like you are blinking or asleep. The photographer should always be able to see a slit of your eyeball.

 

Also be aware of the position of your hands. This is still a tripper for me. Editing photos from a recent shoot, I was bummed to realize that my hands were in the exact same position in almost all of the good photos - and they hid my belt effectually the entire time. Make sure to move them around as you take photos. Holding something like a handbag really can help with occupying your hands - but make sure again that you move it around, so you don't end up with a part of what you are trying to photograph obscured the whole time.

Remember that as a vintage blogger, while you are presenting an image of yourself, you are also focusing on the clothes, which means they need to be displayed to best advantage. Again, vintage images can help a lot with that.

 

5) But Also Continuity

I usually prefer variety in poses, but continuity overall with the location. If the blog post jumps back and forth from dark indoor photos to sunny outdoor photos, for instance, it can be distracting. But if you are outside and you wander around a bit, it works just fine to have some photos under a tree, and others beside a gate or a horse, for example. It's the same general color scheme and lighting.

 

6) Analyze & Research

Honestly, one of the best ways to educate yourself is to look at images on Pinterest of a similar style of outfit, and see how it is modeled. Is the model languid and mysterious, or school-girl-on-a-vacation? Notice the angle of the body, the position of feet and hands. Is the pose elaborate or more candid?

Also study pictures of yourself. If you don't like a particular photo, try to analyze why you don't like it. If you really like one, why is that? This will help you learn what you do like in yourself, and each piece of knowledge will help guide you next time.

 

7) Tools, Tools, Tools

This almost goes without saying, but of course a good camera and some basic editing is always a huge boost in photo quality. Almost all my photos lately have been taken with an iPhone 8 Plus because the camera on it is better than the actual camera I previously used. Plus it has this amazing Portrait Mode feature which slightly blurs out the background and makes it instantly look professional. There are a lot of options out there. Ask a knowledgable friend to recommend a decent camera in your budget.

Speaking of knowledgable friends, it is really important to have someone take your photos who has at least some eye for proportion and framing. If you don't know anyone who can take good photos, you may need to get a tripod and learn how to take your own. Otherwise your photos will never look more than amateur, and the most beautiful outfit won't save the day.

One basic tip for the photographer is that in almost any camera, the proportions look better if you zoom in a bit and step back if necessary to get the full length shots, rather than zooming out from where you stand in order to fit the subject into the frame.

Even a less than satisfactory photo shoot, where the weather or something wasn't behaving, can often be saved or at least minimized by some brightening, cropping, etc. These are very, very basic and easy to use tools. You can always Google or Youtube to find out how to use a particular program if you don't know how.

When cropping or taking photos, try to avoid cutting off frames at body joints. It's better to crop a photo a few inches below or above the elbow or knee, than right at the elbow or knee. It's just an awkward place to end the photo, like your limbs were chopped off. Example below:

 

8) Troubleshooting

It can be so frustrating if you are dressed up and having a good hair day, and the weather is not behaving. Of course, to have a good indoor location is ideal. A section of bare wall, or a simple photo prop like a chair in a room with good lighting can be a nice substitute. If you are outdoors and the wind blowing your skirt is a problem, a good solution is to take seated photos, like the one below. It was windy that day!

 

If the weather truly is nasty or gloomy, you may have to make a decision: do you want to go ahead and just make the best of it because this is your only opportunity? Or is it better to change plans and do it another day? For my striped 1930s outfit, I slated several different days to take photos, only to be thwarted by the wind, or my hair, or some other obstacle. But I didn't want to force it because I really wanted good photos of this particular outfit, not just "quickly snapped and let's get inside before we freeze" photos. And in the end, it was worth the wait!

 

9) Keep Calm and Try Again

In all of this, remember that you are your worst critic. Remember that most people will just scroll fairly rapidly through your blog post, not analyze each photo (though consistently dark or blurry photos will annoy them). Some flaw that may stick out to you like a sore thumb, will likely go unnoticed by most readers; or if they notice it, it will be in passing - it doesn't impact them personally. 

Even the most beautiful model out there has some unflattering photos, which never make it to the public, of her blinking, or eating, or caught in an ungraceful pose. After all, every person is a real person. Photos are a form of art, and cannot convey accurately the complete picture of a real life. 

And as far as the photo quality goes, some shoots will be better than others. If it's worth it, do a reshoot later when hairstyle or weather or background is more fortuitous. Sometimes you can just move on and try to do better next time. In my experience, while readers may compliment a particularly good photo or blog post, they will not be critical of the ones that are not quite perfect.

So be encouraged, and keep on trying! Everyone starts somewhere. :-)

Verity Vintage Studio